Question about Dryers
Is the ignitor glowing?you'll need a meter,if it isn't glowing unplug the dryer and check the sensor it's to the left of the ignitor,you can check the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,if those are ok you'll have to do some checks to see why power isn't coming down to these parts,if it's glowing check the gas coils or you could have a bad gas valve,if you need more help send the model number and let me know if the ignitor is glowing or not
Posted on Sep 04, 2010
If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it's blown, then it needs to be replaced.
Now, check the igniter, there is a plastic connector attaching the igniter to the burner. Disconnect this and place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance. If the reading is above 100 ohms then igniter is bad. If the igniter passes the test then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor. You should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible. Hope this helps...
Posted on Sep 04, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Oct 18, 2014 | Dryers
glow-bar system sends electric current
through a heating type of element until
it glows hot enough to light the gas
(this is used on most older style
dryers) An I.R. sensor (infrared sensor)
determines when the glow-bar is hot
enough to light the gas, it then sends a
signal to the gas valve to turn on.
test this system, open the front cover
where the burners are; start the dryer
in the heat cycle; you should see the
glow bar getting red hot (the glow-bar
sits inside the burner box just above
the burner tubes - there are two types;
a round one that has spirals, and a flat
one that looks like half of a coat
hanger except smaller. If you have a
hard time identifying them go look at
the pictures of them in the store
section) If nothing glows you will need
to take a voltage reading across the
glow-bar leads (there are 2) as you
first start the dryer. No voltage
means it's something else. Voltage
means replace the bar (a
replacement glow-bar should be kept in
the glow-bar lights and does not go
off then the I.R. Sensor has failed.
(I usually replace the glow-bar along
with the I.R. sensor because one will
take the other out, and it's just good
maint. procedure to do as such.)
the glow-bar lights for about a minute
then goes off and you do not hear a
click sound come from the gas valve
(this click sound is the coil in the gas
valve opening) then it's probably a bad
gas valve coil (see below). If the
glow-bar lights, then turns off (in
about a minute) and the gas valve clicks
on (and you can hear and/or smell that
the gas valve is open) the burner tube
holes are plugged and/or the glow-bar
needs to be adjusted closer to the
burner tube. To clean the burner
tubes, you can either shoot compressed
air into them, or remove them and run
water through them. If it's an
older dryer it's best to remove them and
run water through them so as to get all
the compressed lint completely out.
If you have a spark ignition (looks like a spark plug wire from a car...in fact it is.) The way that this system works is, instead of lighting the gas with a glow-bar, it lights it with a spark. To test the system, open the burner cover, turn the dryer on in heat mode, you should hear the gas valve click, and the spark igniter sparking, (in fact, it may even light the gas, but then goes right back off.) If this is the case then most likely the ignition cable is bad. Most people think that just because they can hear the spark, and see the gas light that the cable is OK, however, the ignition module sends a small amount of voltage the opposite direction through ground, through the fire, and through the high voltage ignition cable back to the ignition unit to let it know that the gas has lit. If the ignition cable has a even the slightest crack in the carbon core cable; that small amount of voltage cannot jump that crack like the higher voltage.... So replace the cable. (if it's a weekend and your faced with a downed dryer; either buy one from an auto parts store, or borrow one from someone's car...) The other thing that it may be is plugged burner tubes, if it looks like there is a lot of lint in the burner compartment you may want to try blowing out the burner tubes or removing them and rinsing them out with water.
Check circuit breaker. If it's a 220V machine be sure you have all legs of your power.
Check your neutral leads (I can't tell you how many times I've seen wire nuts come loose...) I've
also had alot of power cords (especially 120V) go bad; check them.
Check control fuses, there's usually more than one. Sometimes they put them in the computer control
there is a transformer in the main circuit (There may be two-one for
the heat circuit, the other for the control circuit) be sure to make
sure you have incoming and out going voltage according to the schematic
voltage or it should say on the transformer.
Make sure door switch is adjusted properly or hasn't failed.
Check belt or chain.
the conduit going into the motor, sometimes older motors get hot and
the mount fails causing them to rotate in their craddle and pulling out
the conduit and wires. After repairing the wires you can run a large
hose clamp around the motor so as to secure it. This will keep you
going long enough until it's replaced.
the dryer works only while you hold the start button on, it means the
start circuit in the motor has failed (120V - 220V single phase system)
I've seen people put tape over the button, however this should only be
a temp. fix...replace the motor. For a three phase system, it's most
likely the start relay is bad.
Be sure to check the main start contactor, these seem to fail quite frequently, they are usually located behind the dryer in the rear control panel.
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