Question about Dometic Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dometic RM 2804, freezer is
Adjust your temp control on the fins inside the fridge move it down it just slides on the fin. You may need a fan on the back of the coil to increase the air flow depending on the heat outside
Posted on Sep 08, 2008
HI thanks for your question, i think what your problem is . the compressor is over heating and cutted out. clean all the coils at the back of the fridge. if theres a fan motor at the back make sure its going check that thanks
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
Ok, I realize I'm a little late on chiming in here, is this unit located in a slideout, and/or the top outside vent is in the wall not a roof located vent?
If so then the issue is that there are fans that are necessary to circulate air thru the hot coils. And there is probably a malfuntioning thermostat to turn these fans on/off. I had this issue with same fridge in a Gulfstream motorhome, and the temporary fix was to pull the faston connectors off the thermostat and tied them together with a 12V fuse, and taped it up with electrical tape to keep it from shorting on fridge chassis and parts. Replace the thermostat at your conveniance, as these fans are now running whenever fridge is on, and will run your batteries down if not plugged into shore power.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
SOURCE: Three year old Dometic RM
My rm2555 has just failed on 240 volt. But not 12 volt.
It turned out to be the 240 volt element .
Fairly easy to replace. If you have a multimeter test the resistance, mine was open circuit.
Does yours work on 12volt?
The two heater elements (ie 12v and 240v ) are on the right when viewed from behind with four large wires coming out, plus an earth wire. There are labels on some of the wires. The 12 volt conects into a terminal connector, where as the 240 volt is fitted with spade connectors and is attached to the printed circuit board, under the white plastic cover. The elements are "L" shaped and are just pushed down in down next to each other. The cover seems to unclip fairly easily to enable removal.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 08, 2011
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