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bottom element need to be replaced,unplug unit,and open the oven and unscrew the screws that hold it inplace,pull it out slowly and detach the two wires and replace with a new one install in reverce order
sounds like the old one is 110 volts , and the new one is 220 volts. incompatable, as the 220 ones would work, but at half power if you didnt use the red wire. might work fine. omit the red wire and wee what happens
If indicator lights are all that wont work there is a "P" terminal on the surface switches (unless they are controled through a board). The P is for Pilot And 1 side usually the "P" terminal of the switch is allowing the light to recieve the power signal that the element is recieving from the switch. The other side of the pilot light(s) will all be wired together at a "common" pont.
My guess is that if you have individual piolet lights this common point is not tied in to the circut now. 1 wire off or loose and none of the lights work. However it should be simple to trace back to this point and effect repair to it.
Just fixed this problem and repaired the corner of the Ceran cooktop.
Disclaimer: These cooktops run on 220V and will kill you if you don't know how to work with electricity. If you're unsure, get some help.
The boiling water slopped out of your pot, and went over to your controls (knobs) and went down the shaft and into a component call "Infinity Switch". The water caused the switch internally to weld one of the two internal sets of contact points into a permanent position. The fix is to replace the "Infinity Switch" that the boiling water spilled into. The Infinity switch is the component that the control knob slides on to.
In my cooktop one of the infinity switches failed and appears to damage the adjacent switch. Mine actually caught on fire and damaged the wiring and the connector. Hopefully you are better off. Since they were in such close proximity I replaced them both. For $20 you might consider the same. I replaced both to be safe and they were $21.47 each.
My cooktop has 4 elements 2 small, 1 large and 1 combined (small and large) surface. A large element was definitely damaged and possibly a small element. I ordered both. I mention this in case a multi-element was damaged on your cooktop.
You will need to contact either Jenn-Air or someone. Since you can't see an exploded parts list online, you'll have to use the schematic. It is in a plastic sleeve and it stuck to the side of the ventilator housing underneath the cooktop.
When you wire the new part in, make sure you have the wiring correct or when you turn it back on you will burn up the new part.
sounds as if you have a wiring issue, somehow power is backfeeding into the other switch. aliitle too late but was the switch an exact match or was it a new substituted aprt, its possible that the manufactue either sent wrong part , or the new switch altough appears the same ,,wire terminals were in different locations
First of all, are you sure it is the elements and not the controler? To test the elements, lift theplate out of the worktop, change the 2 wires from a good element to that element. put the plate back in it is home and use the good elements touchtronic button to turn on the element. I am willing to wager that it is the control unit and not the elements.
The selector knob having lose contact the elements are for full adjument , the wire connection are rust and corroded need to clean terminal of elements.
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