Question about Delfield 'New 6000XL 6051 Side by Side Refrigerator

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My refrigerator evaporator coil freezing write after TXV, 2-3 days later ice is block coil and temperature go up untill 60. I did replace TXV but not original and still same problem. I install new dryer and clean both coils but problem is not resolve. Low pressuere around 25, high pressure is 225. Help me please. Thanks

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator is freezing at the bottom and 60 degrees at the top

probably the fan is not running
take the fan housing off and you may find a buildup of ice preventing the fan from running

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 1070 Answers

SOURCE: Delfield bay marie M/N 18693pt S/N 65629M

very most likely overcharged on freon. With R-409-A, you can not charge by sight glass. Do the ambient plus 30 method if it is a txv. That will get you close. If it is a cap tube, charge to an evap temp of about 20 degrees. then watch it. Make sure it makes temp and shuts off.
Hope this helps

Posted on May 02, 2010

  • 1070 Answers

SOURCE: Does not hold temperature

start with the basics. Make sure the door closes and seals on all sides. If so, check to see that the condenser coil is clean. On some units, you may have to 'Wash" them out and let dry prior to using. Start here and let me know if I can be of further help.

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

SOURCE: My Delfield Freezer (f2fh) does

Possible solution to original question at top of page: Recently worked on a Delfield F2FH with the exact same problem. Would get to 12 degrees and then go up and down either to -10 degrees or up to 12 to 55 degrees. Although I cleaned the condenser coil of some dust it was not the problem. There was no icing of the evaporator either. The defrost timer was also working. There was icing of the lines coming off the compressor but this was simply a symptom of the real problem. After checking everything out carefully and talking more with the customer about how the unit was fluctuating in temperture I noticed something that I had not paid much attention to as a possible factor in the problem. It seems a previous technician had worked on the unit and was very sloppy in his work as he did not put many of the screws back in place after taking the unit apart. Two screws that he did not put back were the ones that secure the overhead outside front panel where the door switches are located. As a result the switches were only making a hap hazard connection with the striker pads on the top of the doors. Whenever the owner moved the unit or, wiped the panel or, even opened the door the top service panel would move slightly out of allignment causing one or both door switches not to contact the striker plates. This in turn shut down the evaporator fans inside the freezer compartment which then only allowed cold air to drift to the bottom of the inside of the unit. The temp control sensor, mounted inside at the top near the evaporator fans, was reading tempertures inside the freezer compartment warmer at the top as all the colder air was at the bottom. On this unit there was only about a half inch of tolerance on the door striker plates so if they were not alligned properly the fans did not come on. So, check your door switches and see if they are engaging. One or both of your doors may have dropped to low to fully engage your door switches due to worn bushing or hinges (each door will only turn half the fans on inside); your striker plates may be worn cracked or out of allignment; your top panel is loose and moving the strikers out of allignment. Don't forget to manually test the evaportor fans to see if they are all working. Do this by opening both doors and pressing both door switches. If the fans do not come on suspect a bad switch which controls the fans which failed. If all the fans come on the problem is in the contact of door to striker plate. If one or even two fans do not come on test the fan itself. The air must circulate insde to keep a proper temperture. I hope this was helpful.

hweyer@bellsouth.net Appliance Technician

Posted on Apr 06, 2011

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Delfield pizza

The refrigerant is OK.

The pressure goes down when coils are frozen because the condensing unit goes under stress and the compressor motor cannot generate enough pressure. That is what happens when evaporator coils freeze, and it is the reason for insufficient cooling when the defrost system is not working. The problem is usually the thermostat at the base of the unit. Remove thermostat and read Ohms at its terminals. If the thermostat reads open at room, then it must be replaced.
Thermostat can also be tested by jumping it.

Check also that the fans are working. Fans are tested jumping them and energizing them directly. You can also read impedance.
Check if any of the solenoid valves (or valve) in the evap system is open (read impedance at solenoid terminals). If the valve is open (it reads Ohms infinity), replace it. If closing the valve did not make any difference, then the valve can be mechanically stuck in open position. In that case the multimeter will not help in finding the problem.
The pressure control should not be involved, as the pressure is normal when coils are not frozen, but the part must be tested if you do not find any other problem.

Start testing the thermostat.

Testing and repair must be done by a qualified technician.

Here service manual (click).

Regards.

Ginko

Posted on Apr 17, 2011

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1 Answer

Wht is a TXV


Simply it's a valve in a refrigeration system that controls or meters how much coolant is allowed into the evaporator.
A thermal expansion valve (often abbreviated as TEV, TXV, or TX valve) is a component in refrigeration and air conditioning systems that controls the amount of refrigerant flow into the evaporator thereby controlling the superheating at the outlet of the evaporator. Thermal expansion valves are often referred to generically as "metering devices".
A thermal expansion valve is a key element to a heat pump; the cycle that makes air conditioning, or air cooling, possible. A basic refrigeration cycle consists of four major elements, a compressor, a condenser, a metering device and an evaporator. As a refrigerant passes through a circuit containing these four elements, air conditioning occurs. The cycle starts when refrigerant enters the compressor in a low pressure, low temperature, gaseous form. The refrigerant is compressed by the compressor to a high pressure-and-temperature gaseous state. The high pressure-and-temperature gas then enters the condenser. The condenser precipitates the high pressure-and-temperature gas to a high pressure liquid by transferring heat to a lower temperature medium, usually ambient air. The high pressure liquid then enters the expansion valve where the TX valve allows a portion of the refrigerant to enter the evaporator. In order for the higher temperature fluid to cool, the flow must be limited into the evaporator to keep the pressure low and allow expansion back into the gas phase. The TXV has sensing bulbs connected to the suction line of the refrigerant piping. The sensing bulbs give temperature readings to the TXV to adjust flow of refrigerant.[2]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion_valve

Jun 18, 2014 | 2006 Saturn Vue

1 Answer

Low ice output


Low ice production has multiple causes. First check condensing coil to see if they are dirty and not passing air. This is the most probable cause for low ice production. Next, measure freeze cycle time and harvest time. Freeze time is typically 20 to 30 minutes and harvest time is normally 1.5 to 3 minutes. If freeze time is long (> 35 minutes), first check water valve shuts after reservoir is full. If it does not shut off the water solenoid operated valve needs replaced. Second, find the harvest solenoid operated valve which branches off the compressor discharge and port high temperature gas into evaporator during harvest and see that evaporator side of harvest valve cools down to surrounding temperature in a few minutes 8 - 10 after freeze cycle starts and harvest time stops. If it does not cool off the valve is leaking by its seat and will require a technician to replace. Lastly, if long freeze cycle could be due to low refrigerant and will require and tech to charge properly. Ice machine are critically charged and a tech will know how to charge the right amount. Again, it is possible the metering device is not passing enough refrigerant and a technician can determine this by checking the superheat and subcool. Low subcooling <3 and a high superheat >20 typically indicate an txv (metering devise) needs replaced and will require a tech to replace.

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1 Answer

Ge side by side refrigerator freezes then immediately thaws


replace the evaporator thermistor located on the top of this coil behind the inside freezers rear cover panel,it looks like a small 22 caliber bullet and has 2 small white wires protruding from the one end,this reads the evaporator coil temperature info and determines when to defrost the evaporator coil,a good way to test it is to open the control board in the rear of the unit unplug the upper right J1 connector and measure pin 1 and 5 for resistance of approximately 16,000 ohms when the thermistor is un-clipped off the evaporator and immersed into a glass of ice water for at least 5 minutes prior

Nov 15, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Model GSS25SGMCBS coil freezes.heater checkedout ok service man changed the circuit board for $312.After 3 days, same problem again. Freeze temp ok but refrigirator sectio quit working after coil freezes....


Hello,
Control board is new, heaters ok, Check defrost thermostat and thermisters located on evaporator.
PC board not getting information to defrost properly.See site below

Also check the fill tube at ice maker . Iv'e seen these get loose and fill evaporator with water causing ice block

good luck




GE Refrigerator Repair Guide

Aug 16, 2011 | GE GSS25SGMBS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Not freezing and not getting cold


Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Take care.

Mar 31, 2011 | Hotpoint FFA90 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Cleaned the coils but freezer not freezing and inside not getting cold what is wrong


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 03, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control


It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Aug 05, 2009 | GE GSS25SGPSS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Samsung fridge RS2545SH every 7 days freezes fridge coil.


Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.
GOOD LUCK, WORK SAFELY..

Aug 12, 2008 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have a kelvenator 2 door glass refrigerator that is not keeping tempurature it has 2 fans on the evaporator. I had a company in to look at it and they took out the old gas and charged it with the proper...


Evaporator temperature is what controls on and off operation and indirectly controls the case temperature. The charge in these system does have to be correct to the ounce. To much charge and the evaporator Pressure will run end giving a higher temperature. To little charge and it will only frost part of the evaporator. These system are critically charged systems.

These type of systems are controlled by the thermostat which should cycle off at a preset temperature and not return to the on position until the cooling coil reaches 37-38 degrees. Setting the control to cold will cause the evaporator to freeze up. Turning the temperature control to the off position will allow the fans to melt the ice from the coil. When reseting the control set it to #1 or 2 setting to begin with.

Also an old unit with an old compressor may not allow the unit to reach design temperature before freezing up the coil.

Jul 20, 2008 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

Hoshizaki Ice Machine Model KM-500MAF


(Quated From Hoshizaki Technical Bulletin)
An alarm code of 3 beeps
every 3 seconds means that the control board has shut
down on the 60 minute freeze cycle back up timer.

The “E” control board has a 60 minute timer that starts at
the beginning of the freeze cycle. If the float switch fails
to open and start the next harvest within 60 minutes, the
board will automatically start the harvest cycle. If this
occurs in two consecutive cycles, the control board will
shut the unit down on the manual reset, freeze cycle
back- up timer. The yellow fault LED marked “60 min.”
will illuminate. This safety is designed to help prevent a
freeze up of the evaporator.

Once you have identified the 60 minute alarm, there are
several things to check. Reset the alarm by depressing
the white reset button to the right of the fault LED’s.
This must be done with the power “ON”. Now check the
float switch to see if it is stuck in the up position. A stuck
float can occur if scale is present on the reed switch
shaft inside the housing. To check it, drain the water
reservoir, unplug the black float switch connector (K5)
from the control board and check it with an ohm meter
for a closed switch (zero ohms). If the float switch is
sticking, clean it with ice machine cleaner or replace it as
necessary.
An inlet water valve which is slowly leaking by during the
freeze cycle can cause a 60 minute alarm. If the inlet
water valve is stuck wide open, it is unlikely that any ice
will form on the evaporator. Check for a slow leak by
allowing the unit to cycle into the freeze cycle and
disconnecting the hose at the outlet of the water valve. If
water leaks by during the freeze cycle, the water valve
diaphragm is likely damaged or the small diaphragm bleed
port is clogged with scale. Clean the bleed port or replace
the diaphragm or entire water valve as necessary.

(I Recommend to get a refrigeration tech for this part).

Another possibility is a refrigeration system problem. You
should use normal refrigeration diagnosis procedures to
check for one of these problems. If the thermostatic
expansion valve is not feeding properly or the refrigerant
charge is low, the evaporator will not form ice as it should
and a long freeze cycle will occur. This could also be the
result of the hot gas valve not closing completely during
the freeze cycle or if the compressor valves are weak or
inefficient. An inefficient compressor however, will
usually show up first on the KM model through a longer
than normal harvest cycle. This is because of cooler
than normal discharge gas. Use proper refrigeration
practices to repair a refrigeration system problem.
While these are not the only reasons for a 60 minute
freeze cycle, they are the most common and should be
checked to resolve a 3 beep/yellow fault LED alarm.

Feb 27, 2008 | Hoshizaki Commercial Freezer KM-500MAH

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