Question about Delfield 'New 6000XL 6051 Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
probably the fan is not running
take the fan housing off and you may find a buildup of ice preventing the fan from running
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
very most likely overcharged on freon. With R-409-A, you can not charge by sight glass. Do the ambient plus 30 method if it is a txv. That will get you close. If it is a cap tube, charge to an evap temp of about 20 degrees. then watch it. Make sure it makes temp and shuts off.
Hope this helps
Posted on May 02, 2010
SOURCE: Does not hold temperature
start with the basics. Make sure the door closes and seals on all sides. If so, check to see that the condenser coil is clean. On some units, you may have to 'Wash" them out and let dry prior to using. Start here and let me know if I can be of further help.
Posted on Oct 16, 2010
SOURCE: My Delfield Freezer (f2fh) does
Possible solution to original question at top of page: Recently worked on a Delfield F2FH with the exact same problem. Would get to 12 degrees and then go up and down either to -10 degrees or up to 12 to 55 degrees. Although I cleaned the condenser coil of some dust it was not the problem. There was no icing of the evaporator either. The defrost timer was also working. There was icing of the lines coming off the compressor but this was simply a symptom of the real problem. After checking everything out carefully and talking more with the customer about how the unit was fluctuating in temperture I noticed something that I had not paid much attention to as a possible factor in the problem. It seems a previous technician had worked on the unit and was very sloppy in his work as he did not put many of the screws back in place after taking the unit apart. Two screws that he did not put back were the ones that secure the overhead outside front panel where the door switches are located. As a result the switches were only making a hap hazard connection with the striker pads on the top of the doors. Whenever the owner moved the unit or, wiped the panel or, even opened the door the top service panel would move slightly out of allignment causing one or both door switches not to contact the striker plates. This in turn shut down the evaporator fans inside the freezer compartment which then only allowed cold air to drift to the bottom of the inside of the unit. The temp control sensor, mounted inside at the top near the evaporator fans, was reading tempertures inside the freezer compartment warmer at the top as all the colder air was at the bottom. On this unit there was only about a half inch of tolerance on the door striker plates so if they were not alligned properly the fans did not come on. So, check your door switches and see if they are engaging. One or both of your doors may have dropped to low to fully engage your door switches due to worn bushing or hinges (each door will only turn half the fans on inside); your striker plates may be worn cracked or out of allignment; your top panel is loose and moving the strikers out of allignment. Don't forget to manually test the evaportor fans to see if they are all working. Do this by opening both doors and pressing both door switches. If the fans do not come on suspect a bad switch which controls the fans which failed. If all the fans come on the problem is in the contact of door to striker plate. If one or even two fans do not come on test the fan itself. The air must circulate insde to keep a proper temperture. I hope this was helpful.
firstname.lastname@example.org Appliance Technician
Posted on Apr 06, 2011
SOURCE: I have a Delfield pizza
The refrigerant is OK.
The pressure goes down when coils are frozen because the condensing unit goes under stress and the compressor motor cannot generate enough pressure. That is what happens when evaporator coils freeze, and it is the reason for insufficient cooling when the defrost system is not working. The problem is usually the thermostat at the base of the unit. Remove thermostat and read Ohms at its terminals. If the thermostat reads open at room, then it must be replaced.
Thermostat can also be tested by jumping it.
Check also that the fans are working. Fans are tested jumping them and energizing them directly. You can also read impedance.
Check if any of the solenoid valves (or valve) in the evap system is open (read impedance at solenoid terminals). If the valve is open (it reads Ohms infinity), replace it. If closing the valve did not make any difference, then the valve can be mechanically stuck in open position. In that case the multimeter will not help in finding the problem.
The pressure control should not be involved, as the pressure is normal when coils are not frozen, but the part must be tested if you do not find any other problem.
Start testing the thermostat.
Testing and repair must be done by a qualified technician.
Here service manual (click).
Posted on Apr 17, 2011
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