Question about Shimano Cycling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The screws on the derailleur set the positional limits for the derailleur; if your description is accurate and it is always one position behind until the middle gears, I would guess it is not these screws causing the problem, but rather the cable tension is a little to low. There is a typically a knurled knob on the back of the derailleur that can adjust cable tension. Unscrewing it a little will tighten the cable. There may be other adjusters if you follow the cable up to the shifter. Try changing it in small increments (eg 1/8 to 1/4 turns) and go through shifts from high to low before determining if it is helping or not.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
There is a limit screw on the body of the derailleur that you have to back out slightly. You can tell which one of the two it is by watching carefully as you adjust it. It takes a phillips screwdriver.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
Try this site:http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=53 Read the articles on shift levers and derailleurs especially. Good photos.
Posted on Oct 21, 2009
Derailleur adjustment takes time to master. Try this out:
First, wash your drive train out really thoroughly and use a degreaser (Simple Green works really well) and a chain brush on the derailleur and chain. Rinse it off and let it dry, then relubricate the chain (and ONLY the chain - never lubricate your derailleur). Now flip your bike onto the bars and saddle so you can crank while you shift manually. Use the middle chainring up front to adjust the rear gears. Okay, shift into your highest gear in the back and then release the derailleur cable. Use this opportunity to make certain your "H" setting is good; the derailleur's jockey wheel should be perfectly aligned over the small cog. Now manually push the derailleur to the lowest gear (while pedaling) and set the "L" so the jockey wheel is immediately outside the last cog. crank back to the high gear. Turn the barrel adjuster for the cable tension to its half-way point (figured by unscrewing it all the way and then counting revolutions as you screw it back in). Pull the cable taut and reattach it. Shift into your middle gear (or if it is an even number of gears, pick one of the two middle gears). Use the barrel adjuster to get the jockey wheel exactly over the correct cog. Pedal and shift through the gears. In each gear, back-pedal to make sure the chain is not skipping. You should be able to free-wheel without problem in every gear on a properly adjusted drive train. If the gears are requiring much adjustment on the barrel adjuster, then you may have a bent derailleur hanger. This can be straightened manually without tools if you have a good eye and patience. If it goe that far, come back and repost "bent derailleur hanger".
i hope this helps
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
Go to http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp
Search in drop down list to go to all tiagra items and identify your particular components. Shimano are good at numbering their parts and you should find the number you seek on the bicycle component. You will usually be able to download an exploded parts diagram and service instructions. The service instructions are prefixed by the letters SI.
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
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