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Bled my radiators yesterday, and now the water pressure gauge on the bioler is at zero - it wont start up below a pressure of 0.5. I suspect the boiler is air-locked. Any ideas on how to bleed it?. Its a vokera 20E boiler

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  • joe_connor May 12, 2008

    thanks for your reply - it is a closed system and doesn't top up automatically. Rang my plumber today and he helped me out with topping up the system.


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You boiler is more than likely low on water. There is normally an automatic water feed. When you bleed a system the pressure naturally drops but is compensated by additional water feed into system. You have a problem in the pressure make-up water feed to your system.

Posted on May 11, 2008

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Car cranks but won't start

It could be the timing or the fuel pressure regulator.
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Fuel Pressure Regulator Failure Symptoms:
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If your car is showing any of the above symptoms, try testing for a fuel pressure regulator problem. Without question, one of the best checks for a faulty FPR is to check the fuel pressure at the rail. If you have access to a 0-100 psi fuel pressure gauge , check the fuel pressure at the rail using FUEL-01. Normally a faulty fuel pressure regulator will result in a very high fuel pressure. So, if your fuel pressure is well above the specs provided in FUEL-01, you probably have a bad FPR.

One of the most common failure modes for the FPR is to fail closed to the point that fuel rail pressure is extremely high. The high differential pressure across the injectors causes them to draw excessive current. The excessive current is seen by the injector drivers which subsequently shutdown. If you have a condition where the car will not start or starts and almost immediately dies, try disconnecting the wire for one injector. Attempt to start the engine. If it starts and continues to run, the fuel pressure regulator is likely bad. Bear in mind that running on only three cylinders, the car will run very rough. By disconnecting one injector, it reduces the current enough to keep the injector drivers from shutting down.

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Ideal response combi boiler model 120 loud vivrating / high pressure/ zero pressure

the low pressure issue is most likely the expansion vessel needs repressuring because the valve has leaked and is not seating properly so causing water leak outside.- with the pressure on zero, drain about 1/2 bucket out, mine had a exit tap near the inlet tap, then attach a car pressure gauge/ pump to the top of the orange exp vessel. pump it up to about 1.5 bar, that should do may have to do this 2 or 3 times..
re loud rumbling sound, mine had this too, and at around the same time ! heres how to fix it..
BGas engineers are lazy, and unless you watch em like a hawk they lie about changing a part...mine had this loud noise problem and its caused by the gas being deflected out, because it has not been ignited by the spark electrodes, and the rubbish boiler doesnt detect this quick enough, so some gas gets out ..You may be able to smell some gas too. The cover is supposed to stop this, but it dont.

with power isolated, all you have to do is carefully remove the fan, and then the burner, and then dry it, clean it, and adjust the electrodes, 5mm gap between the pair of spark electrodes, and 7mm gap to the cone. and 7mm for the sensor electrode. Mine had a bit of water, i think its from the condensation coming back down the flue ? because the exchanger looked ok.

Also be careful of knocking the sensors and wires, and also check if these are ok as well.
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I have a Vaillant Time Switch 110 and for the last week or so the overflow pipe has been pouring water out. I have had the boiler turned off hence no hot water or central heating for the last week but it...

Your pressure relief valve is probably bad, replace it. You might want to tap on the expansion tank to see if that is empty. If it is full, replace it.

Mar 07, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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My valiant ecotec pro24 boiler wont heat the radiators up,i hav hot water.i just got new meter fitted 2nite+its been 10month since i last used my gas,my pressure is 1.6bar but just cant get heat from...

Have you checked automatic air bleeder on main supply line. I would make sure it is working and bleed each radiator if possible. If you haven't used heat for 10 months I would suspect a build up of air in system. I hope this helps you. Thanks

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Pressure og gas in compressor

Hi, this is a 4- ton unit you have. To understand freon pressure in a system, you have to be trained in temperature/pressure relationships. For your system, depending on the outdoor temperature, will depend on what the pressures are, and will be, in your unit. The hotter it gets outside, the faster and higher freon pressures will rise. Lets take a new package unit like your Intertherm unit, clean coils and all. With a outdoor temperature of lets say 90 degrees F, the pressure on the high side in your compressor and system should be at 265p.s.i., and the low side at around 64 p.s.i.. Your pressers in your system are constantly changing due to temperature increase or decrease. Different freons will also have different pressures then what you have R-22. The new R410A they have come out with for the a/c of now and future will be almost 2 and 1/2 times higher then the R-22!! Takes beefed up gauges, the compressor and parts that have freon in them are extra heavy duty, so it depends on the ambient temperature. When the unit is off, the pressure in the system equalizes to around 125p.s.i. on each service valve. If you are in need of help ask me and I would be happy to walk you through what ever you are doing. I am here to help for free of charge to you and this is on my personal time, so please just ask. I hope this has helped you. You do no more now then most people about pressure and temperature relationships on air conditioning. Please be kind when you rate me. That would be very good of you. I will be here if you need me.
A/C & Heating Contractor
PS A tip: R-22 will boil, or has a boiling point of around -43 degrees below zero! Water as you know is 212 degrees above zero. You can get frost bite very fast.

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