The machine rocks so bad my wife had to turn it off
I have it on the first floor of our house it is wood floor not concrete. My buddy told me not to buy them because of this reason is there anything that will stop this. I have made sure it is level. it was hitting the wall and the dryer.
Re: the machine rocks so bad my wife had to turn it off
When I went to buy mine I asked about the bouncing and shaking and he said alot of times people do not take the nuts and bolts off the back that allows the drum to move properly causing it to move etc. There is a pic on the back that shows you were to remove them.
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Last night I posted a very lengthy answer to this from my phone ...I clicked post answer and it disappeared. So here I am on the lap top trying it again
I need to know if you have a wood subfloor or concrete slab ?
The wood subfloor typically allows you a crawl space under the house if you are on the first floor. Drill 1/4" holes into the subfloor and inject silicone under the void. This will dry and be soft and flexible and water proof. Use a 10 oz cartridge and a caulking gun.
Silicone is not an adhesive so it wont cause issues with the concept of a Floating Floor system.
The concrete slab gives no alternative other than taking the wood floor up and solving it by repairing the slab with a inexpensive floor patch depending on the severity and size. I can give detailed instructions on this as well...if you choose to do it yourself.
Wood flooring manufactures state the floor must be level within 3/16" every 10 feet. That means if you have a straight edge at least 6 - 8 ft long and you lay the skinny edge on the floor and look for light under the edge that contacts the floor...or gaps, must not be greater than 3/16" if they are, a simple floor patch from Home Depot or Lowes that you trowel on will remedy those voids. You need to check for high spots as well by placing the straight edge on the floor and looking for a distinct rocking of the SE from the high side to the low side.
All this pertains to my experience with concrete slabs. If you have a wood subfloor let me know
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Although you say it's on 'anti-walk feet' I would recommend you try my method of balance to make absolutely certain- providing that the feet on your machine ARE adjustable! It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0) Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then- very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice. Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up! If this corner did not rock do the same to the other. Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.
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Thanks and good luck!
All washing machines need to be 'level' and not able to rock. Spin cycles tend to show unballanced/level machines 'best'!
Is it possible that the concrete has been worn in some place(s) under the feet? If so:-
There are (normaly) 4 feet and at least the 2 front ones are adjustable- sometimes all 4 but the rear ones are difficult to get at!
You need to ensure that the front feet are adjusted/screwed down tight to the floor. In my experience washing machines are delivered with a flat spanner to facilitate otherwise an adjustable will be required. If one foot is easy to turn THAT is the one which needs screwing down until it becomes fairly difficult to turn further. Check by rocking the machine fairly hard- without moving its position on the floor.
A couple of layers of very heavy plastic will do the trick.
Just form up you showr pan and then cut the plastic so that it willlay nisely in the bottom of the forms.
Pour your concrete and then build you shower.
If you can afford ans they are not that expensive, you can get a complete kit at like home Depot or Lowe's.
Comes with a heavy rubber mat and a drain made to seal to the mat. These may be for a tile job, but will work for concrete also.
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
Peer and beam floors do create a problem for front loaders. Sometimes you can get rubber mats under the feet of the units and this will aid in absorbing the vibration. 95% of the time its an installation error. If you look at the feet or legs of the unit you will notice they have nuts on them. When they are tightened up snug to the bottom of the cabinet this usually stabilizes the machine to eliminate the vibration. Plus the unit to tilt back ever so slightly with the front being higher than the back. Maybe 1/4 inch rise no more. Level width ways is a must but back to front needs to tilt. Try the mats and feet and get back to me. thanks dale