Question about Vivitar V3800N Zoom 35mm SLR Camera

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I can't open the back of the camera. It just came in the mail so I don't think there's any film in there but it's possible. I've tried pressing the rewind release button. HELP!!!

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Pull the film rewind knob all the way out and the back should pop open.

It's on page 2 of the manual. If you didn't get a manual, you can download one from
http://butkus.org/chinon/vivitar_cameras/vivitar_v3800n/vivitar_v3800n.htm

Posted on Sep 03, 2010

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We have a Canon A1 that hasn't been used in years. We loaded it and used it a few times yesterday, but now it wont' advance the film, it's stuck. Ideas?


Could it be that it thinks it needs to have the trigger pressed?
The film will not advance past an unexposed frame.
The other possible is that the end of the film has been reached.
Try pressing the release button and rewinding the film.
If you have a dark room available you can always resort to opening the camera.
Excellent camera. Have had one for many years back when film existed.

Mar 02, 2016 | Canon A-1 Manual Focus 35mm Film Slr...

Tip

Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

Stopped Working All Together


Hi, bring to your nearest service center to repair it.

May 18, 2013 | FUJIFILM Instax 210 Film Camera

1 Answer

The film did not automatically rewind after the last shot. How do I get the film to reqidn without exposing it and losing pictures.


You'll have to do it manually. Take the camera into a totally dark and lightproof room: if you can see anything at all in the darkness then it's not dark enough.

Open the camera back and remove the film can. Wearing clean lint free gloves, gently but firmly pull on the film to slowly unwind it from the take up spool, as you do so turn the spigot on the film can to wind it back in.

Note that on a manual wind camera, you would have been able to press a rewind button to disengage the film take up sprocket gears, but on your you can't. If the film seems at risk of tearing then try pulling it out at a right angle to the back of the camera. This ensures that you're not pulling it back over the sprockets and it should then come out quite easily. If your film is likely to contain important and irreplaceable images then you may wish to buy 12 or 24 exposure cheap film and borrow another 35mm camera to practice the method I've recommended in the light where you can see what you're doing.

Sep 20, 2011 | Konica Minolta Maxxum 3Xi 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Hi, I have inherited by dad's old Nikon FM camera - well I think it's a FM! It has not been used for centuries and I was able to take one picture before it the view screen went black. I have taken...


The mirror has locked up, blacking out the viewfinder. Mirror lock up is usually due to flat batteries, so replace them as soon as possible. Extended lock up is bad for the camera.

The FM uses a pair of SR44 batteries, you can use the cheaper LR44's but the voltage characteristics are different and exposures will be a little off, but if you're using print film then you're unlikely to notice any problem.

The batteries are very widely available, the link I've provided is for the mail order supplier I use in the UK. Even if the supplier is of no use to you the information they provide shows you most of the other names that the identical batteries are sold as by various manufacturers.

If new batteries don't fix it then the camera is effectively beyond economic repair.

Aug 21, 2011 | Nikon FE 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

I've taken many photos so far with my Canon T70 but have no idea how many and when to stop.. i'm not counting the number of photos i've taken, haven't heard any beeping and don't know...


The maximum number of shots possible is 24 or 36 depending on the film length, although sometimes you can squeeze an extra one out of a film. If the film loaded correctly you will get a frame counter in the LCD. If the film did not load correctly, then you have not taken any photos as the film is still in the canister and unexposed.

Take the camera to a totally dark room (and I do mean absolutely pitch black) and open the camera. if you can feel the film canister and just the short leader then it didn't load and you can turn on the lights and try loading again. if there is just the canister and no film sticking out, then the film has rewound and you can turn the lights on and send the film for developing to see if the camera worked. If you feel film going from the canister right across to the take-up spool, then your film is still being used and you should close the back of the camera before turning on the lights again. The latter does not necessarily mean that your camera is OK though as it should be showing frame numbers, but it may be usable still. If after a few more shots the camera is still behaving just the same then it's got a fault.

A faulty t70 is really not worth repairing. It's complex, spares are mostly unavailable, and they are almost worthless even in perfect condition. Any of the earlier non-t-series Canon FD-mount bodies are far better and a lot more fixable. They are also usually near worthless and can be picked up free or very cheaply, but as they have less to go wrong and were designed with repairs in mind then many common faults can be fixed.

Jul 27, 2011 | Canon T70 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

I just bought a Minolta maxxum QTsi from a lady and it had no manual with it, I can't figure out how to load the film. Can you take me step by step on how to load the film and how the camera works when...


Hi, I've found the instruction manual online for you, http://www.mediacollege.com/equipment/manual/konica-minolta/camera/maxxum-qtsi.pdf that way you have it for future reference. For loading film you open up the back of the camera and make sure that the end of the roll of film is aligned with a red mark and then you close the back. For taking pictures you press the shutter button half way in order for it to focus, when the image you want is framed you press the shutter button the entire way and it'll take the photo.

May 13, 2011 | Minolta Maxxum QTsi 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

How to unload nikon fg 35 mm film


When the last exposure is made, the film advance lever will not move the film to allow another picture to be taken. Turn the camera upside-down; with the lens facing you. Locate a small button in a slight recess in the right-hand side of the bottom of the camera. Press the button in to release the sprocket drive mechanism from the film. Turn the camera right-side up again, and unfold or open the film crank knob from the top most part of left-hand side knob (the one with the ASA settings on it). Return or rewind the film back into the canister by gently turning the crank clockwise until you feel the resistance ease up completely. This indicates the film has been completely rewound and is now protected from light when the back of the camera is opened, next. To open the camera back, pull the crank knob gently up and away from the top of the camera. The back door will open and when the knob is fully extended, *** will be possible to remove the film canister from the camera body. You should do this in subdued light if possible - and return the film canister into the original protective container if available - otherwise, place in a light tight box, bag, etc.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

Nov 02, 2010 | Cameras

1 Answer

When I turn the knob on the camera to be able to take another picture, the number still stays at zero. What's wrong with my camera?


There are a couple of possibilities that I can think of:

First, film must be loaded into the camera for the picture counter to increment.

Second, if you've loaded film, but the counter still does not change, it is possible the film is not advancing (the film release button/knob/lever that you use to rewind the film may be activated) or the film has slipped off the sprockets on the take-up spool.

If you can stand to lose the photos you may have already taken, just open the back of the camera and make sure the film is advancing when you take a photo.

If you can't possibly lose the photos, rewind the film and take the film to be developed. Try to find a local developer that only charges for the photos that "came out"... This can save a lot of money if only a few frames develop properly (or if none come out!)

Sep 01, 2010 | Pentax K1000 35mm SLR Camera

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