Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

Open Question

Have error codes of h and then f ? Kenmore Elite Quiet Pak 2, HE3

Posted by on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
Lumpy816
  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite has an

F51 error code is beacause the computer board did not receive input from the motor on the bottom. Unplug the washer, pull the machine forward and tilt the machine back. On the bottom you will see a large white wheel with a silver allen screw in the middle I think it is a 6mm allen wrech that takes it off. Once you remove the screw and drop the white wheel, there will be a large coil of wires with 4 5/16 screws holding it on, remove these screws and drop the coils. On the right hand side you will see a connector with three wires , unplug it. Use sand paper or a scraping tool to clean all 3 male sides of the connectors. Reverse process to re-assemble.

Posted on Jul 11, 2008

Ad
  • 272 Answers

SOURCE: Error code F21 - thanks for your help

The F21 error code is an indication that the unit has too long of a drain out condition. If the control calls for the unit to drain & the water does not drain out in 8 minutes or less the unit will stop & flash the F21 error code. I would recommend checking the drain pump & pressure switch circuit.

Clear pump of debris. Tilt machine. Take off front panel. Unscrew large white drain plug. Remove debris.

Unplug from power source...remove front lower panel (3 sheet metal screw wirh 1/4" drive head located on the lower lop of the panel)...open pump strainer (looks like a large stove knob, Turn it counter clokwise, lookout! lots of water will gush out... back flush the pump by filling the outet of the drain hose ( this may dislodge debris that may jam your pump)...re-assemble, plug to power, and turn-on. That will help get rid off the debris.

It can be done if you are patient and able to figure out how the plastic thing comes apart. Good luck!

Posted on May 09, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: F11 error code on a

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite Quiet Pak 2-HE 3. Model #

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.^^####^^^

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: The kenmore elite quiet pak 4 HE3 plus - stops on

FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What is wrong with my Kenmore Elite Quiet Pak 4 HE3 Electric Dryer?


Might be a2 things: Vent blockage causing overheat OR bad thermistor. Repair clinic shows how to replace it:

PART AND VIDEO

Note: Make sure you order the correct thermistor for your dryer

Dec 05, 2012 | Dryers

2 Answers

Softener does not dispense and we get a code F 30


This error code F30 flashes when the central control unit (CCU) cannot drive the dispenser motor to the proper dispensing position and hence the softener dispensing problem. Disconnect power then remove the top panel and check the dispenser motor assembly for damage or broken parts. You may run a diagnostic test then take a look at the dispenser motor and observe how it behaves. Replace the dispenser motor assembly if damaged.

jahn27_278.jpg


Click on the link below for the troubleshooting details of this problem and instructions on how to run a diagnostic test.

Troubleshooting Error Code F30 on Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite Front Load Washers

Jun 19, 2011 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Kenmore Elite Smartheat Quiet Pak 9 won't start. Light turns on and off inside drum when door opens/closes, but no lights come on on the outside display.


My Kenmore Elite dryer keeps beeping..just going through the end of cycle alarm-high,low,off...anyone have any suggestions?

May 30, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore elite he4 quiet pak 9 dryer display code


PF - Power Failure - PF error code indicates a power failure during the dryer's cycle. Press and HOLD start to continue the cycle, or press off/pause to clear display.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

May 15, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

F 2 error code


Hi KG Oliver,

This is a common complaint on the Whirlpool built Kenmore's. Please follow this link to my solution for it.

Thanks,
SG

Apr 05, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Elete 45862401 Quiet Pac2 front end washer that stops during the wash cycle. it flashes a f6 error code. The manual says it is a loose wire between the mcu and/or control panel,shipping...


With the front door open, see if you can rotate the basket freely.  If not, most likely the bearing of the rear tub is worn out.  You will have to replace the whole rear tub which is about $300 for the part.  I am having the same issue with my Kenmore Elite Quiet Pak 2.  I'm contemplating with just buy a new top-load washer.

Mar 01, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Kenmore elite quiet pak 4 ''suds'' error


I also gots suds error and then "F"?
my clothes were soaked....i can't get the machine to drain now????

Nov 17, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite Quiet Pak 1 Model No.110.26942503


yea if valve is leaking into machine when not on youll need to replace the valve. part number for the inlet valve 3979346 . you can find a diagram as well as a part list at sears.com.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveModelActionHome!retrieve.action;jsessionid=UFaeD4IGtGIcYFtrZmj97w**.shcapp3205?modelNumber=110.26942503&pop=flush

Mar 25, 2008 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

477 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Washing Machines Experts

Sal DeAngelo

Level 3 Expert

2333 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5546 Answers

Ed Mac

Level 3 Expert

731 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...