GE drsr483ed1ww dryer runs but does not heat. 220VAC confirmed ok @ dryer. I'd like to test the Thermal Fuse, but there's no rear panel to remove. Any suggestions how to get to them (they appear to be located under the drum toward the back)? Thanks!

Somehow you are not getting enough air through the dryer to maintain a temperature below the thermal high temp cutout temp. or there is a control problem for the heating element so it may stay on the 5 minutes but like an oven the thermostat turns the element on and off. I hope you understand. There may be a relay that turns the element on and off, but the contacts have "frozen" or welded themselves together. If so that's your problem. Or there is another device with a similar problem. Unplug, trace the 220vac wires to controls and the heating element. Double check wiring. the Safety devices may be 110vac rated and 220vac is going through so won't hold the power flow. Hope this helps.

Hello there
Thanks for using fixya
Ok there are 5 areas that need to be looked into 1 of which you have already changed over and over so you know it is not the heating element so i dont have to post that part so here is the rest

thermal Fuse picture below

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it

.

• How to open a dryer cabinet.
• How to test a dryer's thermal fuse.
• How to replace a dryer's thermal fuse.

Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

• How to open a dryer cabinet.
• How to test a dryer thermostat.
• How to replace a dryer thermostat.

Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.

• How to test a dryer timer motor.
• How to replace a dryer timer.



• And lasst is the wiring from the house
  

Proper Voltage

If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.

Hi,
When the dryer wont heat it is the thermal fuse that is bad, you can test it with a voltmeter before replacing. This fuse is located inside the rear panel and it cannot be reset.
Hope this will help...

This problem is commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse located on the blower housing. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and the motor activates a centrifugal switch for the heating element when it runs. These setup makes the dryer fail to start and the heating element not to turn on if the thermal fuse is blown. The dryer seems to no work at all. Verify the condition of the thermal fuse by bypassing it and starting the dryer.

Disconnect power then access and bypass the thermal fuse on the blower housing. The blower housing is located on the rear left bottom of the dryer cabinet. Remove the rear panel to access the blower housing and so the thermal fuse.



Bypass the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and connecting them together. Insulate them properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced along with the cycling thermostat if the dryer starts. Do not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.

The thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are part numbers 3392519 and 3387134, respectively.

Hi,
When the dryer won't heat it is the thermostat/thermal fuse that is bad, you can test it with a voltmeter before replacing. This fuse is located inside the rear panel and it cannot be reset.
Hope this will help....

If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Hello there:
f yourdryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied withthe proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is gettingto your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, checkthe circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are inthe correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in yourfuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is notgetting to your dryer.

Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heatingelement is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours hasceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open yourdryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

• How to open a dryer cabinet.
• How to test a dryer's heating element.
• How to replace a dryer heating element.



• Find a heating element for your clothes dryer.

Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributedto a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it isno longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have toreplace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse sothat you can test it.

• How to open a dryer cabinet.
• How to test a dryer's thermal fuse.
• How to replace a dryer's thermal fuse.



• Find a thermal fuse for your clothes dryer.

Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could bethe reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinetand test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replacethem.

• How to open a dryer cabinet.
• How to test a dryer thermostat.
• How to replace a dryer thermostat.



• Find a thermostat for your clothes dryer.

Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up.Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as itshould, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.

• How to test a dryer timer motor.
• How to replace a dryer timer.



• Find a timer for your clothes dryer.

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

There is no reset. What he did was probably replace the thermal fuse. Why did he not clean it out for ya? Anyway when the thermal fuse goes bad either the whole dryer or the heat won't work. If you can open the dryer up by removing the front panel, you can test your thermal fuse for continuity. If none replace it. While you have the front off undo your belt and remove the 3 screws that secure the rear of the drum (inside drum in middle at back) pull drum out and make sure heat element is not broken. Here is a site for your dryer check it out. www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-dvlr223-%3d%3d&z=100 Good Luck

Put the back panel back, and hope you havent done permanent damage
the back does not come off roper dryers for service
the front does
the back panel serves solely as a mounting point for important fixtures
there is no reset button
there are thermal fuses, if the thermal fuse, mounted on the exhaust duct or fan housing has failed, it must be replaced, but they are not expensive
look like this to access the dryer mechanism

unplug dryer
remove lint filter
remove 2 screws under lint filter
with putty knife or other blunt blade, depress spring catches at front corners of top cover
raise front cover
remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/3 from top
remove door switch wires
remove front panel set aside
test all thermostats heater and thermal fuse with ohmmeter, remove 1 wire test for conduct replace wire, no conduct replace
the local parts store will have the part, labelled whirlpool, ~$14 for thermal fuse, ~$40 if heater

examine rear panel reinstall any thing that is dismounted
while the dryer is open
Clean the lint out of fan, fan housing, ducts
airflow blockage is the 99% cause of thermal fuse blowing, some lint always gets past the lint screen