What do the resistors look like are they green with round brown lines round them are the capacitors the orange round ones ive noticed some are black on the top also where on the pcb board is the flyback auto transistor and the horizontal amplifier thanks
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: resistors and capacitors
Resistors are usually cylindrical, depressed in the middle and have three coloured rings (sometimes 4) around it to show the resistance value (but they do come in other shapes as well). The leads are generally on the base, one on each end. They are usually placed length-wise on the board. Here is a sample pic:
Capacitors, on the other had, are usually cylindrical all the way through and are encircled by a plastic sheath. Sometimes they look like small rectangualr compressed boxes.The leads are usually both at the base end on one end only. The top or cap is usually visible and point upwards from the board. They have their values usually printed on the plastic sheathing. Here's a sample pic or two:
Here is a LINK that will give you more info, if you wish.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Flash focus button push,didn't solved pictures convergence problems.The tv convergence board is dead.The 2 STK convergence ICS and some or all it resistors are dead.These parts on the tv convergence board,must be replaced to solved the tv picture convergence problems.The shop,will cost u $300-350 for parts and labors.
it is the capacitor caused that's the resistors blows,because the the capacitor cannot hold the storage voltage that why he passed it to resistor then the resistor can't also that why it's blow.Look for the capacitor associated to that resistor trace the line,for dryed up and leak capacitor...
Hi Thanks for using FixYa. The green LED on the front panel of the TV
that normally blinks when turned on after a power failure or when unplugged:
the green light is supposed to flash for about 1 minute while both
microprocessors boot up: If it won't stop blinking it means that they aren't
communicating with each other.
This issue is due to 1000uF/16 volt power supply capacitors in the "DM
module" (one of the two onboard microprocessors). These capacitors are
apparently small as compared to load they get & due to this they will eventually
fail (usually after about 3 years). Or else they fail when there are voltage
fluctuations in the circuit above 16 volts. It is recommended to install either
1000uF/25 volt or 1000uF/35 volt capacitors as replacements, so that they will
be more than ample to handle any voltage spikes that will occur. You’ll need to
take the back off the TV apart in order to remove the faulty DM module. You’ll
need to desolder the old capacitors on DM board and install. Also check the
grounding straps which are essential to the proper functioning of the DM
replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from
Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged
it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the set too fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital
Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each
other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thought that the other
board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again. You need
to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or
Mouser Elect) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it
apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up
having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top
edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire
connector labeled “FC”. It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire.
Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch
from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source
side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and
connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection
points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure
the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take
the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the
middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both
terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder
the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same
color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram
below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the
chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires
out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside
of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the
switch through but you can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN
position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should
stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the
switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV
should turn on- you’re done! Yeah!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have
the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the
front of the TV, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and
turn the TV on normally… Again you are done…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the
other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking LED) this means that
the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you
tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset
button procedure above.
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you
have the repair manual. This is nice to have because it has a wiring
interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for
further assistance. Thanks Rylee
The color code is as follows: blk = 0; brn =1; red = 2; orange = 3; yellow = 4; Green = 5: blue = 6; violet=7; Grey = 8; white = 9
Unfortunately, if it is wirewound, they usually printed the resistor value on the body of the resistor. For sure it shouldn't be glowing. Sorry I can't be more help, but without a schematid, can't do much else
Did you remove one side of the resistors from circuit to check them? If you leave them in circuit a blown resistor will test good as it will read the resistance from the surrounding resistors. Usually its the 3.9 ohm resistors identified bu the bands orange,white ,gold and red. and also the 150 ohm identified by the bands brown, green, brown and gold
the baby blue ones with the lines Blue,Gray, Gold ,and gold are the 6.8 ohm resistors the other resistors with the lines blue,orange,brown and gold are 630 ohm , Yes if those resistors are open even one of them the set will not converge. A digital ohm meter is more accurate, but you have to remove one side of the resistor to check them and if theyre open they wont read anything. If you leave them in circuit even a open resistor can measure good due to the resistance in the circuit. Removing 1 leg out of circuit then checking will spot an open resistor quickly.
Check for a burnt resistor on the convergence circuit board. This is usually what happens when the green gets distorted as the green is not adjustable only through the service menu so its either a burnt resistor or a leaky capacitor. Resistor is far more likely. Let me know if you need any further information.
Guess I should have looked to see that you had a second post. I justa answered one and here's some of the answers to my questions..
Brown - green - grey - gold would be a 1500m resistor and I would HIGHLY doubt they used something that intolerent in the convergence circuit... It's more likely to be a 1.5 ohm resistor which is brown - green - gold - gold and the grey you're looking at my just be discolored from heat stress...
Take a look at my previous post and tell me what you find after you make some comparisons.