Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: squeaky door
On our KitchenAid dishwasher we had the same problem--a REALLY loud squeak as it opened. The sound comes from the nylon rope slipping along the plastic pulleys. We've had the DW for about 3 years and the noise has gotten worse over time. I was determined to win the war against the noise and am happy to say I fixed it today.
The trick is to use a dry lubricant on the cord and on the pulleys. I used Dry Graphite by Gunk. It comes in an aerosol spray can and once the stuff dried the squeak was gone. I'll let you know if it comes back...
Posted on Feb 20, 2008
the correct # for your unit is pdw7880n10ss
just enter your model #(under repair or replacment parts)the site will walk you thru the rest.when you get to the parts list make sure you use the diagram to match your part exactly(click the red box at top of page)hope this helps.thanx for using fix-ya!!!
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
OK, pretty easy fix. Look at diagram 10 here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5164885
The link (#24) probably broke and the spring (#18) probably shot off and is lying somewhere behind the dishwasher. Just pull out the dishwasher (careful not to disconnect or crimp any of the hoses) and check to see if both springs (one on each side) can be located. Just replace the old links and re-hook the springs and all should be well.
You can order the link replacement (part #8194001) from kitchenaid at 1-800-422-1230.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
Our dishwasher is one that we put our own "Door on it" in our case, it matches the cabinet. It is designed for that.
I went on-line and ordered the replacement parts. I can't recall the site but I will look thru my files and send to you if I find it.
I removed our door front and slid the DW out about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way. I did not want to mess with disconnecting power and water lines. 1/2 way out should be enough room to work on the places you need to be. On both sides near the back and bottom you will see a large tension spring. Be careful not to bust a knuckle here. Using a sturdy hook of some kind is recommended. In place of that you might try a solid wooedn hanger with a heavy hook on it. BE CAREFUL, while pulling on the front part of the spring you will release the tension on the cord that is around the plastic guide wheels and attaches to the bottom hinge of the door.
Release the hook and then the tension you have on the spring. repeat this on the other side. With both sides free the door should lift off the hinges and the base it sits on. inspect your hinges. mine were bent, not much, but I was at whits end. I replaces both. I also replaced both cords that were attached to the tension spring and one of the plastic roller wheels ? I am sure there is a better name for them. It was the longer of that is on the tear drop shaped fastener.
I then placed the door back in posistion and closed it. On the the tear dropped shaped guide wheel (the one at the bottom) you will see that there are holes to adjust the tension. The closer you move this wheel towars the front of the machine, the more tension on the hinges. I set mine in the middle and this seemed to work. Before you slide it back in the space, try a test to see if the door stays shut. ie. run a rinse cycle too. Hopefully that is all you will need to do...BUT.
That was not to total solution in our case. I ended up ordering and replacing the door switch (a black plastic piece that is what the metal latch on the machine is supposed to "hook" into.
Replacing it is fairly simple. I did shut the power off for this. This part is replaced by taking off your face plate which is secured bu screws inside of your DW door around the edge. You will see 4 screws to remove and it "snaps" out. At this point you can see the working relationship with the latch, the switch and the contacts on the switch that the door latch (metal part coming out of the top of the DW) after replacing this...try the process again and hopefully your issue will be solved. I had to remove my latch and bend it back to the original shape and mess around with a slight bend to make it latch and hit the contacts in the door latch.
Good luck! I am sorry this is so long. :-)
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
Welcome to FixYa.
The unit does need to be pulled out, slightly. The good news though...It is a fairly minor procedure to replace it/them.
First, slide the entire unit out from the cabinet a couple or three inches and you`ll see the plastic roller assembly and rope ( except yours is likely broke...at least one by the sounds of your description ) attached to the side.
**You`ll need to insure your connections will allow you to pull the unit out however, otherwise they - water, power, drain hose - must be disconnected to prevent any damage.**
If you have any reservation to performing this repair on your own please call in a qualified appliance technician.
The parts ( # 1059756 @ repairclinic ) come in a kit as I alluded to and will look like what I attached below...
These are available at most brick & mortar appliance part locations or on-line vendors such as "repairclinic.com" "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple.
They range in price for around $20, or you can just purchase the rope/link seperately for about $4 part # 1159210 @ repairclinic.
I recommend replacing the entire kit and checking the spring itself, if it looks ok and not stretched or broke it is likely ok...they are seperate from the kit ( # 830967 door spring @ repairclinic as well )
Hope that helps move you forward. Thank you for visiting "fixya" today. Please take a moment and rate the solution provided here or a testimonial if you feel warranted.
Let me know if you require further assistance and good luck.
Posted on Apr 13, 2011
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