Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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Sears washer model 110.92282 loud noise (whine?) during agitation and spin modes

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  • Kerry English Sep 02, 2010

    The washer is working fine but is making this loud whining or buzzing noise. It started on the spin cycle and now is also during agitation. I'm looking for specific info not a generic list of everything that could be wrong with any washing machine.

  • Kerry English Sep 02, 2010

    No belt, this is direct drive

  • Kerry English Sep 02, 2010

    Direct drive, not belt drive

  • Kerry English Sep 03, 2010

    17-year old top loading direct drive Kenmore model 110.92282 80-Series washing machine. Working fine but today started making loud noise (whining or buzzing) first during SPIN cycle and now during both SPIN and Agitation. First was large load of clothes but then I ran empty with just small amont of water. Agitation is fine and water removal is fine. Coupling? Thanks

  • Kerry English Sep 04, 2010

    Hey Jahn27,

    Thanks for your help. The noise was the pump but I followed your diag. path to figure that out. I think the clutch or brake is also dragging. Should the agitator turn during the spin cycle? Mine is but if I grab the top of the agitator during the spin cycle, it easily stops without imopacting the tub speed.

    Thanks,
    Kerry

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4 Answers

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The problem is definitely not the coupler otherwise there will be no agitation, spin, or drain functions working. The problem is in the clutch and brake assembly.
sears washer model 110.92282 loud noise (whine?) - c121531.jpg
b8479ed.jpg

The clutch hub is attached to the spin pinion gear and as the spin pinion gear turns, the clutch hub also turns. The clutch lining is forced against the clutch hub by the clutch spring and as the clutch hub turns, friction between it and the clutch lining causes the clutch lining to turn.

As the clutch turns, the tab that holds the clutch spring on the lining, pushes the brake cam driver, releasing the brake. The tab on the clutch lining remains in contact with the brake cam driver, holding the brake released and then providing power to the spin tube through the brake release.

It sounds like the brake shoes are not fully released during the spin cycle and still in contact with the brake drum causing the whining noise. The clutch spring must provide the necessary pressure for the clutch lining to turn with the hub and the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake.

The clutch spring of your washer is weak or the clutch lining is worn preventing the tab that holds the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver and release the brake completely. The clutch spring must provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub without slipping and for the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. Other possible reason is a broken brake cam driver or a worn brake shoe pads.

Since the machine also whines during agitation, you can confirm this condition by observing the agitation action. Only the agitator moves during agitation. The condition is confirmed if the tub moves with the agitator.

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Posted on Sep 03, 2010

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 03, 2010

    Correction: Drain function is not disabled when the motor coupler is broken. Only the agitation and the spin functions are disabled because the mechanical energy of the motor is not transferred to the transmission but the drain pump is directly coupled to the rear spline of the motor. It makes the drain pump work as long as the motor runs.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 05, 2010

    The agitator turns with the drum during the spin cycle due to some very minimal friction between drive tube and the agitator drive shaft. The friction is very minimal that you can easily hold and stop the agitator without impacting the speed of the drum. What is not normal is when the drum turns during agitation.

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It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you often can't describe noises accurately enough. People can describe the same noises quite differently.Most people suspect the drum bearings but there are many different causes of a noisy washing machine.
Here's a general guide -

  • If a washing machine is rumbling, and very noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on many washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. (Hotpoint and Zanussi in particular in my experience) To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings may have gone. There should be a constant rumble all the time the drum is revolving. (Personally I wouldn't tackle replacing washing machine drum bearings as a DIY job unless a seasoned DIYer. It's a big job, and most washing machines these days have plastic tubs with bearings recessed into them or even completely sealed outer tubs. If you want to have a bash, or maybe have an old washer you may be interested in buying new drum bearings.
  • Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure can be a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) although this patch is not always present. There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust if water has got into the bearings.
  • Loud noises when turning the drum by hand can also be caused if the drum itself splits, or the spider at the back of the drum has come away from the drum, is corroded or even broken. This would normally be a loud noise on each revolution of the drum whereas the noise when drum bearings have gone is constant all the time the drum is turning. Lifting the drum checking for excessive play can often reveal a broken or loose drum spider which sometimes only occurs at certain points round the drum (the spider has three arms and is bolted to the drum at three points)
  • Coins or other obstructions trapped inside the tub under the drum can make horrendous noises as they get tossed about on spin. They often don't make the noise unless laundry is in though. Look out for obvious dints and creases in the drum itself as evidence of a coin or similar stuck inside although be aware that it only shows there's been an obstruction in at some point and the coin could have fallen into the sump hose or filter and not actually be the cause of the noise at this time
  • Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as the coins get tossed around inside. Often, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins because the coins drop to the bottom of the tub and lay flat when the washing machine isn't spinning
  • A light scraping or ratchety noise when the drum is turned by hand is commonly a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum. They can often be removed from underneath with the sump hose taken off. It's always worth checking that the wire isn't poking through one of the holes in the drum which can be pulled back out from inside the door. It's rare, but I've retrieved 3 or 4 this way over the years.
  • A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.
  • A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would normally be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine. Warning: These days most washing machines have plastic tubs and over tightening a tub weight bolt can easily shear the bracket resulting in a new tub being required. Try loctite. Often, once a tub weight has come loose the plastic tub is damaged anyway especially if it isn't caught early enough
  • Sometimes a badly worn drive belt can cause a surprising amount of noise. I've even come across some where i was convinced the drum bearings were gone until I took off the belt and spun the drum by hand to find no noise.
It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk. I

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 03, 2010

    I would definitely check the tub bearings and also the motor

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 05, 2010

    Check your pump and motor first, then coupler and bearings.

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Check the belt on the motor. A worn belt will slip and make the noises you hear

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

  • frank thomas wilson
    frank thomas wilson Sep 05, 2010

    A direct drive unit has a fiber coupler between the motor and the transmission. That part has two shear pins most likely sheared off causing the whinning noise

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Spin bearing issue . he spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle.
Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.
For noises during agitating:
The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline. The other possibility is belt if its belt driven washer 
Check the belt if its over stretched or loose or worn out. The belt its common on those, remove the front,2 screws on bottom and push in hidden clips between front panel and top and pull down, the front panel comes down, replace belt and lubricate idler pulley, tub bearing ,where transmission spins, should be good
belt spins off, there is a spring loaded idler, just spin belt back on
The other cause can be the motor problem, the motor and its bearing got rusted ,it has to be checked,. If rusted then that is the cause, the motor bearing rubbing other parts of metal while spinning.
For getting required parts you can get it from the online site like www.repairclinic.com Thanks. keep updated for any more query. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

  • raj somaiya
    raj somaiya Sep 02, 2010

    You can start by checking the transmission it self.As you mentioned that the noise started from spin cycle now you even get it in agitating cycle:--
    To remove the transmission, all of this must be done: cabinet off, agitator and spacer clips (1 metal, 1 plastic) out, pump off, motor off. Then there are 3 bolts that secure the transmission to the chassis. Tip the machine on an angle to the back, remove the 3 bolts, and the transmission will pull straight out.Now check the transmission and its shaft.If its worn out and needs replacing then for replacing, The new transmission will not come with the motor mounting plate, coupler, or clutch. These parts must be transferred from the old transmission. To remove the clutch, lift off the round metal washer at the base of the output shaft. Then remove the "E" clip and then pry out the wire-looking clip (loose end first) from the inside edge of the 4 tabs. The clutch will now lift off; make sure to retain the plastic insert. Reinstall the parts in the reverse order on the new transmission. Clear the breather hole in the top of the transmission (arrow pointing to it) with a needle or straightened paper clip. Transfer motor mount plate (I usually re-install it upside down from the way it was on the old tranny) and install the new coupler. Gently tap the coupler onto the input shaft until it is flush (I use a ratchet extension so as not to break the coupler with the hammer). Apply small amount of grease to output shaft and slide back into chassis. Assemble in reverse order from this point. Make sure to reinstall the plastic and metal spacer clips before installing the agitator. Once cabinet is back on and machine is back in place, lift the back of the machine up and down to reset the rear leveling legs.
    To disassemble the top of the machine,if in case you are finding it hard to remove then more detailed procedure:--
    Take the console off,Once the control panel is pivoted over backwards, use a small flat screwdriver to pry the brass-colored cabinet clamps (one on each side attaching cabinet top to rear panel of machine, insert screwdriver in front of hole...then push rearward to release). Disconnect lid switch harness from connector coming through top of machine. Pivot top of machine cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle and pull away from machine. Notice bottom flange of cabinet goes under washer frame and the side cabinet flanges go on top of washer frame (small alignment tabs at all four corners...don't bend them over). Once cabinet is off, you will see the pump mounted vertically in front of motor. If the machine is whining during agitation, most likely you have a bad pump or something in the pump. Sometimes strings, etc will wrap around pump seal so tightly you can't see it. Large flat blade screwdriver should enable you to turn the pump...should turn easily. If you can't find anything wrong with it, you can leave the pump off the motor and fill the machine so it will agitate to see if the noise is gone when the pump isn't attached. Keep in mind, the machine will not spin or drain as long as the lid switch isn't connected to the machine harness because the cabinet is off. You can reinstall the cabinet to connect lid switch to drain unit out once test is done (re-install pump of course so it drains). If noise is gone, replace pump.
    ------------
    For getting required parts you can get it from the online site like www.repairclinic.com Thanks. keep updated for any more query. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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Tub Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced.


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Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced.


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Rear Drum with Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.


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Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.


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Drive Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.


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Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced


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U-Joint Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.


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Motor Coupling

If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.


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Clutch

If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.


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Drive Belt

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.


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Transmission

If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.


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Drain Pump

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.


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Drive Motor

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.


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Water Inlet Valve

If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault and will need to be replaced.

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My Kenmore washing machine (110.23032101) makes a loud knocking noise on the "Spin" cycle. The adjitator does not always spin along with the tub. Any ideas? Thanks, Curt


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23032101

First of all, in theory and according to the Whirlpool / Kenmore top load, direct drive service manual, the agitator isn't supposed to spin along with the tub.

There is an agitate cam in the transmission that is supposed to raise a gear above the agitate rack.

Please see the following for a complete description.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

We had essentially the same problem, loud noises when the machine went into spin mode.

We looked at the service manual and the following parts manual for commercial washers (although the consumer models are basically the same) and thought that the "agitate cam" wasn't lifting the gear high enough, probably less than 1/16 of an inch but enough that it was grinding on the main gear.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

We pulled the transmission

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Replaced everything and the noise disapeared.

The agitator may still turn during the agitate mode but this is mainly due to the oil friction between parts.


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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine. Sears has a parts list for model 82881100.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

It's hard to diagnose what "will not agitate properly" means. However, since you've replaced the dogs and are getting a loud noise during the agitate, try to isolate where the noise is coming from.

Remove the cabinet, see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

If you jumper the two outside pins on the lid switch you will be able to start the washer and listen to the agitating. (We used a couple of bunge cords to keep the back of the washer from flopping around)

When it begins to agitate, listen closely to the transmission. If the noise appears to be coming from the transmission, the problem may be in the agitate cam and / or gear in the gear box.

Look at the gear box diagrams on the Sears site.

We had a major noise problem with our top loader and traced it to worn agitate cams.

Pulling and replacing parts in the transmission is a messy job (14 - 15 Oz. of oil) but it can be done.

Following is how we replaced the cams.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


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The inside of your agitator became worn, and possible strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. The loud noise mustly occurs during the spin cycle. If you hear this loud noise your load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it.

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check to see if the tub has any side to side play to start then pull the motor and check the coupling the clicking is whats confusing

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