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Re: Need help putting drum back in place
The tub rear shaft goes into a rear bearing inside the middle of the heater housing it has to be just right aligned to go in to the hole be patient and you can get it to align
you do have to remove the frount panel to get it to line up
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If the spacer is like a small tube and the bolt will slide into it, it will probably need to be placed between the the back plate and the place that the bolt threads into. If you look at the back plate you may be able to see the outline of where it was. Sometimes reassembly is easier if you can put the bolt and spacer in place in the back plate and then put it into place.
On the back side "backing plate" behind drum, there's a small opening in the bottom (sometimes they have a black rubber oval plug) remove plug (if equipped) insert straight blade screw driver and try turning adjuster
These can be tough to get off. as they like to sieze around the axle flange. I use an air hammer with a flat bit and rattle around the center hub on the drum which usually will shake them loose but if you don't have that tool then I would spray penetrating oil around where the axle hub protrudes through the drum and around each wheel stud as the oil will creep down behind the drum and help loosen the rusty grip it has on the axle. It can take quite a while for the oil to creep in there [an hour or so] Once you have the drum loose it often will catch next on the brake shoes [due to a lip that wears on the outer edge of the drum] as you try to slide it off. If that happens you have to manually loosen up the brake shoes a bit through the inspection plug on the backside of the brake backing plate. The bad news is that sometimes the adjuster is stuck and won't move or there isn't even an inspection hole to start with which makes it very difficult to work the drum off over the shoes.
Try penetrating oil around center hole and 8mm holes if rust is present. Then, pound hard on the radius edge between face of drum and top/bottom braking surface.
If no luck, you might need to back off the shoe adjustment rod located behind an oblong hole on the bottom of the backing plate.
Youll see small teeth if you view through the oblong hole(might have a rubber plug in it) Put a screwdriver in the hole and try to ratchet the teeth in one direction or another (it will only go in one direction) once you see which way it moves, usually with a corresponding "click", Stop........you need to turn it the other way.
To do this, you must take a small thin screwdriver or ice pick and poke it in past the small toothed gear until it hits a surface. Put more pressure and you should feel it move. This is the ratcheting arm that kept you from moving the gear in the other direction.
Now you should be able to turn the toothed wheel in the opposite direction to loosen the brake shoes from the braking surface of the drum.
The 8mm bolt holes are there to help pull the drum, but, if the shoes have worn into the drum a lot, it leaves an edge on the inner edge of the drum which wont let the drum slide past the shoes, which is why you need to back off the adjustment rod to pull the shoes away from the drum to allow it to be removed.
If all else fails, the shoes are held against the backing plate by two pins, held in place by small coil springs and keeper plates.
If you look at the backing plate, you should see two small circular discs at the roughly 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions. These are the heads of the keeper pins which hold the shoes on to the backing plate. Take a small and preferably sharp chisel, and shear these small discs off the backing plate. Now, you should be able to pry off the drum and survey the damage. You will need to replace these parts. Ask your parts dealer for a "spring kit" for the rear drum brakes of your particular vehicle.
before you take the drum out please do one simple check to see if the bearing have worn out.open the door and lift the silver drum inside up an down now if you ear a knocking noise or feel a knocking vibration then it definately the bearrings have gone.
I had a similar problem, but the precursor to this was a loud squeal when the machine came to a stop at the end of spin cycle. This squeal lasted for a couple of months (since I was afraid to take it apart). The one day there was a leak during the drain cycle, so I looked behind it and found the flex hose that goes between the drum and the pump. I replaced the hose after about a week, and when I tried to use the washer, it did not spin anymore. So I turned the washer upside down, pulled the drum out, and found a big 'caution' tag on the plate, but don't be worried. Out of the 6 screws that hold the plate on, I took out three opposing ones and bought 3 of the same pitch but only that they are 2" long. Then I put a nut on each one, and put them into three opposing holes in the plate. Run the 3 nuts down to the plate, then take the three remaining short screws out. Slowly back off the three nuts equally, and within 1.5" the plate is safely off. Then I lifted the spring out along with the brake drum. The drum had rusted itself in place. This was because of the water hose leak. So I sanded the brake drum lining lightly to remove the glaze, and sanded the place where it was rusted to. Then I put it all back together, and it works like new!
check to be sure emergency brake is not engaged ..and that cable is not frozen/rusted keeping it from releasing at baking plate into back of drum..often there is a knock out...(dimpled.stamped impression in backing plate) where the adjusting hole should be..you would need to slam that out (or in) with a heavy drift or screwdriver you are willing to hurt..then get to the star adjuster adn back it off use lubricant around drum/backing plate area and at center (hub/drum) area where rust happens and pry with large screwdrivers 180 degrees apart between backing plate and drum wiggling and shifting positions around circumference...also a trick..open zerk fitting at that wheel cylinder and wiggle screwdrivers 'tween backing plate and drum to get shoes to close some....good luck
I think you must replace the belt and the tensionarm. It MUST be done from the backside of the machine... Remove the backpanel, and the drum, change the tensionarm, and put the drum into the machine again. Put on the new belt, and mount it together again. Be careful for sharp edges! Hope this helps :-)
The shuttle hook will be covered by a plate called the RACE. Its a flat steel plate that sits over the hook and is snapped in place by 2 black coloured snaps.
Looks like you are trying to operate the machine without the race on. try that and it should work.