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I assume you have that in a 8300?...
In any case.. try To warm-start (no diagnostic tests are run), press the Reset button for less than 5 seconds. To press the Reset button, insert a small pointed object (for example, an unbent paper clip) into the Reset button hole.
if you need more help. please give us more information!
Well there is NO need to go live. this is a simple matter your ISP is Blocking Port 80 for whatever reason and there is probally nothing that can be done besides get a new ISP one that does not block port 80..
You can try giving them a call or check their website and see if the Block port 80 as ALL the other Ports you Forwarded are Open.. I am Highly leaning to your ISP as the culprit..
Can not really understand what exactly you have done. Please try the following steps:
1. Assign static IP on pc 1 as 192.168.1.2 assign subnet mask as 255.255.255.0.
2. No need to assign default gateway and DNS.
3. Assign static IP on pc 2 as 192.168.1.3 assign subnet mask as 255.255.255.0.
4. No need to assign default gateway and DNS.
Open dos and try to ping. In case if the ping fails then disable all the firewall on both the pc's and try again.
If you are running windows vista then in network and sharing center make sure network discovery and file sharing is enabled.
method 1: buy a power adapter that has a switch controlled output voltage - they usually have 3V - 4.5V - 6V - 7.5V - 9V and 12V selectable output. Start with 6V and if its not working unplug, select 9 and try again etc. etc.
method 2: open the case and locate an electrolytic capacitor right near the power plug - the biggest one. Note the voltage (for example it may say: 1000uF/15V) and have in mind that your device MUST work at a LOWER level that this.
Zyxel, D-Link and 3com to name a few, what else did you want to know?
If this solution was any help at all please rate it as helpfull or fixya. And if you need anything else let me know, you can ask me 24/7 by clicking on the ask me button, I will ansver in most cases within 24hours.
jpmchugh, I know this response might come to you a bit late, but none
the less it might help others who have this issue. I had exactly the
same problem until recently, and looks like I found the solution (at
least for me). So I thought I'd share it here, since I have not seen a
real solution on the various forums I've visited through.
The one common thing I've noted when searching on this and other forums
re the 8 bottom blinking lights and then the top right blinking light,
repeating over and over again was about a power surge / storm etc.
The exact thing happened to me. A couple of months ago there was a
really bad storm, we had a black out in our area and
there were some spikes in our electrical systems.
When the black out was over my Gigabit switch was doing the same
routine re the lights. The problem for me was the actual power supply
This Switch I've had is about 1.5 yrs old, dunno if I can claim it on
warranty from dlink. I've checked the dlink au website and it quotes 5
years, but dunno if it covers storm damage.
Anyways, I took the faulty power supply and the switch to my local
jaycar store today. The sales guy noted that the output should be 7.5v,
however when he did a test, it was actually showing 12v. He said that
the switch must have some sort of built in protection, cause usually
supplying 12v to a device that needs 7.5v should have fried the device.
We tried out a replacement power supply and bang.... back in business.
The only kicker was that the replacement power supply cost me around
(AUD) $39.95, cause it's one of those fancy multi volt ones. If you can find
one that is fixed at 7.5v it might be a cheaper option
Please let me know if this has solved your problem.
I recommend you not to try to open it. The made it difficult to open for one reason and that is to prevent anyone to fix it so you have to buy another one but if you are experiencing problems of connectivity try this: remove the screws (if any) from the enclosure use a flat screw drive and insert it on the side of the casing's edge (right in the thin gap) apply little pressure and then push the screw driver down then up slightly, do this all around the case and with some patience you may get it open if you must use another flat screw driver to stick it on the part is already opened to keep it from closing back. Do this at your own risk there is no warranty you will be able to fix it once opened. I recommend you buy a D-Link hub they are reliable not to expensive, also easy to open. Good Luck!
The DVD player must have audio and video output jacks if so use an RCA connector if the player supports this and conncet the other end to some speakers and a video monitor you should have picture and sound. This will determine if the unit is even working.
If the unit is not working you may have to remove the unit from the car to do a proper inspection of the conductors to determine which ones are power and which ones are speaker and other functions. The best bet would be that the red and black are you B+ and ground return conductors. If you are able to open it up you will find that the wires go to various parts of the unit. Now this is where things can get "hinkey", I want you to follow the conncetion from the components connected to the heat sink. The heat sink will either be part of the chassis or a separate piece of finned metal the component that we are looking for will either be screwed to this piece of metal or pressed up against it by some kind of clip or restraint. This will be your voltage regulator or your final stage power amplifier which will connect to your speaker wires, you should have two of these components. At this point if you have traced your wires you know know what conductors are power and which ones are audio. Take these wires and connect them to your speakers. connect your power wires and turn the system on, you should hear sound from your DVD playing. iF not the unit is damaged and is in need of professional repair.