Question about Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Place a hammer handle between the door and the frame at the hinges..
Push on the door, carefully.
This usually works to re-seat the door hinges.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
this is a super common problem for all convection ovens . your motor is going bad . you can replace it yourself as long as your handy . parts can come from searsparts .com or any appliance parts store . any repair person you call to do the job should have no problem . these motors go bad every 10 years or so , or more if you use it a lot ..........Please if this answer helped , please rate this 3 or 4 stars . and keep me in the paid answer department . A 1 or 2 may knock me down into the unpaid ranks. Thanks Cactus Bob .
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
if lower element tests open with continuity meter then it for sure is bad. i would also check the wire ends that connect to the element and/or the control board, they could have loosened allowing a bad connection and low voltage to elementor burnt off.. most ovens do not use the broil element at all during the bake cycle, only during the broil cycle.. some however do utilize the broil element during baking, but at a lower wattage or something..
best of luck,
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
i am posting instruction for this dryer below
(For some help with that, and before buying an element you might not need, please see my article entitled 'The No-Heat Dryer'). Note: Always check airflow out the vent before firing up your dryer with its new element. A partially clogged vent can burn out an element - even a brand new one - fast! Just run the dryer on the 'no-heat' or 'fluff' setting, then go outside and check for a good strong flow of air from the vent hood. If there's any doubt, Whirlpool makes a cool little airflow test kit for their dryers that will tell you for sure, from inside.
There are basically 3 styles of heating elements in use for these dryers.
1) Most common is the 'long' one, part number 4391960, accessed from the back of the dryer, and which looks like this:
To replace this one, power down and pull the dryer out and remove the back cover. You'll see a long, vertical 'can' on the right side, with the element coil inside. To remove this can, simply pull the element wires (can be hard to remove; I use a long-nosed pliers), the limit thermostat wires just above them, and the thermal fuse wires if equipped (this is a little device mounted high on the side of the can, with two wires attached). One 5/16" hex screw at the top and a little strap holds the can in place. Remove this screw (You can look through the small hole that lines up with it, originally to poke a long screwdriver through), tip the can rearward, and lift it off its two bottom hooks. Once the can's out, one screw holds the element inside. Remove it, and the old element coil will slide out. Slide the new one in, reverse this process, and you're done!
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
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Sometimes dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
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