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I used power grip adhesive caulk to hold my plastic walls of my shower stall up to the wall. after a month and half there is a stain that has come through the plastic wall, that is from the power grip adhesive. Help

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Tnsiouxfalls
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SOURCE: How do I keep the Escutcheon on my Moen shower

http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm
This is the best stuff for that rust,it's strong stuff,so wear gloves while using.It's available just about everywhere,shopping centers,hardware stores,even your local Wall-Mart.

Posted on Jan 02, 2010

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SOURCE: Adhesive Remover I put one of

Normally a bit of benzine will do the trick without damaging your shower wals. Soak it for a while by adding benzine to a cloth and holding it in place for about 2 minutes. Then wipe away.hope this helps. Otherwize, if the benzine takes too long, you could also use some gasoline.

Posted on Aug 24, 2010

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SOURCE: What adhesive should I use when I install my acrylic shower walls

here is a how to including supplies:

http://www.homedepot.com/c/installing_shower_walls_glue_up_HT_PG_BA

Posted on Oct 25, 2016

  • 42798 Answers

SOURCE: What adhesive is recommended for use with a max acrylic shower wall

the adhesive used is alkaline free so go to a plumber supply shop that sells bath and shower stalls and get the correct adhesive
it is a special type that comes with new installations

Posted on Oct 25, 2016

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What adhesive is recommended for use with a max acrylic shower wall


the adhesive used is alkaline free so go to a plumber supply shop that sells bath and shower stalls and get the correct adhesive
it is a special type that comes with new installations

Oct 25, 2016 | Home

2 Answers

Seem to have water leaking under shower into storage competition ment, tried caulking only happens when shower is on and someone is in it very frustrating


Very often happens for a number of reasons

Bad caulking around the shower base and the base drops with the weight of the occupant allowing water past the caulking.

Crack and bad seal on a wall tile.

A split in the base itself which opens up with weight and you can't see with the base empty.

A leak in the pipes behind the wall from the mixer unit to the shower head.

Split pipes or fitting to the drain.

Best way is a full tear down, refurbishment and start anew :>)

Jul 10, 2016 | Home

3 Answers

My tub is plastered into the wall with caulking. Recently, I have noticed that the caulking is dissapating and loosening up the tub. Fortunately, I have not see a change in my water flow. I want to


Unfortunately this is usually caused by a leak and the drywall is wet , and or the tub is sinking due to water damage to floor. If the drywall is solid then use a utility knife to remove old caulk, then after area is clean apply silicone caulk around the tub. apply neatly but with plenty enough to fill the void. I then spray a dish soap an water mixture on the calk then remove excess by pressing thumb down and sliding it long caulking. This presses it into the gap and also removes excess, which leaves you a neatly caulked tub.

Jan 23, 2015 | Pfister Tub and Shower Repair Kit SK0275

1 Answer

Replace shower door


Hi

You did not mention any additional information about your problem except replacing shower door.However use basic hand tools to complete the job.

Try this following general steps :-
1. Remove the doors by lifting up on one door at a time and then pulling each out. The top of the door has rollers attached to it, and the rollers rest on the inside of the top rail of the frame. Set the doors aside.
2. With your drill, remove the two screws on each end of the top rail, located on the inside of the shower frame. Then lift off the top rail of the shower frame.
3. Use your box knife to cut the caulk on the side and bottom rails of the shower frame. Shower frames are caulked on the outside where they meet with the walls and floor of the shower.
4. Use your drill to remove the screws from the side rails. There will be two screws on each rail, securing it to the shower stall. Then, take the rails out. Remove the screws from the bottom rail and take it out.
5. Use your tape measure to measure the old side rails, top rail and bottom rail. With a pencil, mark the lengths on each new rail. Use your hacksaw to cut each rail. Hold a side rail in the exact location where the old rail was located. With your pencil, mark the screw holes on the shower wall. The new shower frame screw holes may not line up with the old shower frame screw holes. Use your drill and 3/16-inch drill bit to drill new holes if necessary. If the shower walls are ceramic, use the concrete drill bit. If the shower walls are fiberglass, use the multipurpose 3/16-inch drill bit.
6. Insert the 3/16-inch anchors into the holes that you drilled. Put the side rail into position and insert the screws into the holes. Use your drill and Phillips head drill bit to tighten the screws. Place the bottom rail into position and mark the holes. Drill new holes if necessary and install the anchors. Insert only one screw at the end where you installed the first side rail. Lift up the loose end of the bottom rail and slide the second side rail into place. Mark the holes. Remove the side rail and drill the new holes using the 3/16-inch drill bit. Insert the anchors and put the side rail back into place. Insert the screws and tighten with your drill using the Phillips head drill bit.
7. Set the top rail directly onto the side rails. In each end of the top rail, insert the two self-drilling screws until the top is secured to the sides. Insert the tube of clear caulk into the caulking gun. Cut the end off of the tube with your box knife. Caulk the side rails and the bottom rail to the shower walls on the outside of the shower. Re-hang the shower doors by lifting each door and placing the rollers on the inside of the top rail.
Also giving you some links from where you can find a detailed information regarding replacing shower doors.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-replace-a-shower-door/index.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214441,00.html
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Please do get back to us for further query.

Jan 20, 2012 | Home

1 Answer

There is loose wall mount tub filler. How can I tight it?


Most tub spout are pretty covers for the generic ugly pipes that deliver the water from the wall water plumbing into the tub area. Speaking for this water pipe it's either going to be copper or galvanized iron pipe. The pipe that you see sticking out of the wall is rather short. It ends just inside the wall usually at a 90 degree elbow which in turn is connected to a pipe and other things inside the wall cavity. If this short pipe stub is loose so you can move it in and out of the wall hole some, the reason is that the plumbing pipes inside the wall are not tied down to the wall studs properly.
If the backside of the wall can be opened by cutting out a section of sheetrock in the same location as where the spout pipe is located, you can expose the inside wall plumbing and tie in the wall pipes securely to the wall framing. Afterwards, you need to seal up the sheetrock hole you created.
In some cases this is not possible. When that is the case, your fix is spotty at best. You can use a caulking that becomes rock hard when cured around the pipe nipple as it comes through the wall hole. Hopefully the hard caulking will provide enough tightness tying the pipe to the wall material to help stop the movement. Install the caulking so it is underneath the pretty tub spout when you reinstall it over the generic pipe. Make sure you do not have this caulking involved with the pretty spout so if you need to remove it again, it won't be locked in by the hardening caulk.
Nimsgame

Feb 15, 2011 | Cifial Wall Mount Tub Filler Spout CIFIAL...

1 Answer

I bought a maax shower base. i am going to intall a cement board on the wall, water proof it and then tile over it. The shower base has a flange that is 1/4'' thick. do i install the cement board on top of...


There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

Jan 30, 2011 | Maax Acrylic Base for Shower - 102623

1 Answer

Need installation instructions for ASB model# 36850 Hudson tub surround


This is a 5 piece surround. For this project you will need the surround, polystryene adhesive, a utility knife, caulking and caulking gun, dish soap and the box the surround came in. On this type of surround the back and end walls are installed 1st and then the corner shelves are installed. Ensure the wallboard or substrate is clean and free of contaminates. Best to install new backer board or moisture resistant drywall first before proceeding. You will need adhesive specifically designed to glue the panels and corner shelving to the walls. Common product is PL700 from Lepage. Follow the manufactures instructions for the adhesive you are using. Avoid any adhesives not approved for use with plastics as they will damage the surround. Remove the tub spout, hot and cold water handles and diverter handle if your shower is equiped with one. Common diverters are a pull up on the tub spout. Install the panels with the bottom edge directly on the tub deck. For the end panel where the plumbing comes through you will need to cut access holes. Use the box that the surround came in as a template so that you are not accidentilly cutting holes in the wrong location. After installing the panels and shelving corners you will need to seal the seams with 100% silicone caulk. Peel the shelf edges back slightly and run a bead of caulk underneath the seam. Smooth the caulk line out. TIP Use a latex glove and dip your finger in dishsoap. The silicone will not stick to the dishsoap and will leave a clean fine line. Run a 1/4 bead of silicone where the surround meets the tub and also where the plumbing goes through the surround. Allow to dry and cure as per the manufacture's suggestions. TIP Install expanding foam in the cavaties of the shelving. This will provide a more rigid shelf and will extend the life of your new tub surround. Good luck with your project.

Jun 16, 2010 | Home

1 Answer

How do I keep the Escutcheon on my Moen shower faucet from rusting yet keep it clean? How do I get the stains from the rust off my shower stall wall?


http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm
This is the best stuff for that rust,it's strong stuff,so wear gloves while using.It's available just about everywhere,shopping centers,hardware stores,even your local Wall-Mart.

Jan 02, 2010 | Moen & One Handle Tub & Shower Faucet

1 Answer

Hi we just bought a maax breeze neo corner shower how do i install the two back walls do you use glue or what?


There will be a nailing flange on the walls of your shower. Typically, drywall screws are used on this flange on the top portion and along outside edges spaced 6-8" apart. Use a high quality tub/shower caulk down the seams.

Nov 19, 2009 | Maax Breeze: Two Piece Round Shower Module...

1 Answer

Bottom rail fit on 1500D door in 28" shower stall...


Mark, I'm having different problems with the same door. Try "filing" down the ends of the bottom rail, where it is contacting the curved corners. You might have to buy a metal file to accomplish this. Go heavy on the adhesive caulk on the underside of the bottom rail. Make sure the shower base is clean and dry. You might have to push down with your arms for several minutes to get the adhesive caulk to stick. Good luck, I have to go back to my folks this afternoon, because I can't get the door panel in w/o it scraping the top rail. Ugh.

Jan 22, 2009 | Sterling Plumbing 1500D-31S VISTA PIVOT...

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