Question about Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer
I had a problem where the water would fill and do everything except when it came to spin it would not work. I took the back cover off and checked gave some wires a shake and found that a spark came from the motor control board. Took the board out and inspected and found that a solder joint on a thick metal jumper was broken (eroded). Reflowed the solder joint with a soldering iron and added some more solder for added strength. Plugged the board back in and I was up and running. Always do a visual check before doing any repairs, it may save you a lot of money with a quick fix like this. This may look complicated for some but it's worth trying. A repair tech told me either its the motor control board($150) or the motor($300). I would have spent over $500 plus his labor....
Posted on Nov 11, 2013
I had the same problem with the same model-970-C45072. Two screws to take off the front bottom panel. Inside, I found the diagnostic manual which contains instructions on how to display the error code. Blinnking lights spit out code 41 which means main control board in not receiving message that the front door is closed. Followed instructions to test door switch. Removed control panel at front top of machine. Three screws under soap dispenser and then pried it upwards. Removed J2 2-wire plug from control board. No continuity between 2 wires with door closed. Instructions state door switch is defective. Removed top panel which is held in place by two screws at the top back of machine. Removed two screws from inside front door that hold the switch in place. Reached down from top of machine and disconnected the (3) wire connectors and removed the switch. Purchased $40.00 switch from Ebay.com. Problem solved.
Posted on Jun 22, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it has a speed selection switch than this switch is likely to be bad, other than that are you sure that It once has high spin in the cycle you are using??
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
If the washer does not spin ONLY when it gets to the spin cycle, you may have a broken lid switch. Here' how you can determine if the switch is working properly or not. Open and close the washer lid and listen for a "clicking" sound as the lid opens and closes. If no click is heard, chances are your lid switch has come loose, the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid that depresses the lid switch contacts when the lid closes), or your lid switch is broken all together. If you make the determination that you need to replace the switch, follow these steps:
First of all, unplug your washer. you'll need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. the washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. you will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
Now...the oil leaking from the gear case may be an unrelated problem. The gear case IS filled with a honey colored oil. Sometimes they leak. This does not always indicate a problem unless the problem gets progressively worse, or you notice slow spin or no spin related problems. If the amount of oil is a small amount it may not be anything to worry about. However, if you are noticing large puddles, you may need to think about replacing the gear case.
I only mentioned the lid switch first, because this is a simple problem that can often be overlooked, AND appear to be a more significant problem. BOTH components, if bad, can exhibit very similar symptoms. If you check the lid switch and it is working properly, you could very well have a gear case going bad. If you need to replace it, I would recommend replacing the motor coupling as well. Here's a list of part numbers:
Gear case - 3360629R $73.88
Motor Coupling - 285753A $15.49
The parts can be found at searpartsdirect.com under the heading "BRAKE, CLUTCH, GEARCASE, MOTOR AND PUMP". You can also find these parts at repairclinic.com. The gear case on the Sears website is a rebuilt one. The gear case at repair clinic is a new one and costs a bit more. Just type in your model number in the search menu and a part index will be available.
If you make the determination that the gear case is bad, I can give you follow-up instructions on how to replace it. It is a simple repair that you can do with a little guidance. You can also save a bunch in added labor costs.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any further questions.
PS Additional part numbers (if needed):
Lid Switch - 285671 $29.99
Lid Strike - 350733 $10.48
These parts are available also at the Sears website under the heading "TOP AND CABINET".
Posted on Mar 01, 2008
Check your lid switch. If the lid switch is not making proper contact, or is broken, the washer will fill, agitate (some model washers won't), then just stop when it gets to the spin cycle. If this is what you are experiencing, then this could be a quick and easy repair for you.
Try opening an closing the lid. If you don't hear a clicking noise when the lid closes, the lid switch may be bad or loose. It is mounted under the opening of the tub rim on the right-hand side and held in place with two screws. Make sure the lid strike ( a small plastic piece) is present on the lid as well. This closes the switch contacts when the lid closes. If the lid switch does not function, the washer will not complete a wash cycle.
If the determine the switch and/or lid strike is broken, searspartsdirect.com carries the parts need. Just type in the model number you provided and you will find the lid switch under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item #11 (part #3949238). The Lid Strike is under the same heading as item #20 (part #350733).
If you need advice on how to replace the lid switch please post back and let me know.
If I'm off the mark here, please post back with comments and give me a little more elaboration on what your washer is doing or not doing.
PS You do not need to drain the tub to replace the switch. If you wish to drain it, however, and want to by-pass the lid switch, I can give you instructions on how to do this as well.
Posted on Apr 14, 2008
with the machine empty see if you can lift up only the tub and see if it drops down.check to make sure there is nothing between the tub and outer tub have you gotten an f-51 error?
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
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