How do you set the temp correctly. Unit defrosted overnight and noone turned any control

Need more info.
Generally, Hoshi freezers have 2 sensors and a limit in the evap compartment. One sensor is for conditioned space temp, one is for evap temp, and limit if for the heater.
Basically, while in defrost, the controller monitors the evap temp, and when it reaches approx. 70 degrees, the defrost should terminate. The limit kills power to the heater should it get too hot prior to defrost termination. I would first check to see if heater is getting power, if not, check the limit as they go bad frequently. If it is getting power but the defrost termination is happening too early, I would replace the probes first as it is the cheaper route and even if the controller is bad, I would not replace it without doing the probes too. The safety in the controller is usually set for if the unit does not terminate defrost on temp, it will terminate on time, usually 1 hour set at factory specs. Let me know if you need any further help.

The manual for this unit can be found here.

I would need to model number to check if you have a on/off for you over temp alarm. That "Buzzer" is a over temp alarm. If you fridge uses a 9volt battery then you might need to replace the battery. Please post your model number.

https://feg.hobartcorp.com/resourcecenter/ProductDocumentation/TR35748%20G-Manual%20(3-09).pdf
Try this site.If you can not access this, let me know and I will try to email to you this manual. It has info on your controller and programming.

There is definately a ground fault in this unit. Also according to the service manual this is an "Electronic Defrost Control" similar to an "
Adaptive Defrost Control" which determins the defrost initiation by the amount of run time. You cannot set this yourself.

On the freezers a setting of 7 or 8 should do fine. I would be more concerned with the defrost timer, defrost heater, and settings. Also a HUGE problem is that the door switch on the top center of the door can sometimes barely contact the door (this happens when a unit is slightly warped or out of level) or the spring loaded hinge on the door can break causing the door to stay propped open at times. When the door doesn't close the evaporator fan stops but the compressor will continue to run. I have had to tape a nickel on top of the door to make better contact with the switch. Make sure the switch isn't the problem before going any further.

check door gasket, proper clearance from sides.the more it runs the hoter the sides get.the cooler the room temp the less it will run ect.. does it ever shut off by the control? set control on one and listen for it to shut off wait a couple min and turn it up does it come on if it doesn't it may be in defrost so wait a wile and do it again if every time it's off it won't come on (in defrost) the cold control may be bad what temp is it in there. is it frost free and is there frost buildting up where there shouldn't be it has a defrost problem

It shouldn't frost up that quick at any setting. If it is a automatic defrost system then something is wrong with it. If the door seals are not sealing good that will cause it to frost up quicker. See if the seal will hold a dollar bill snuggly all the way around.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Hello there:
first make sure that the back of the unit is clear of any dirt or obstructions
also make sure that the food is not stacked up so high that the air cannot circulate also you may want to check the temperature setting if the unit does not respond to a lower setting your refrigerant level may be low or than you will have to have the temperature controle thermistor serviced or replaced

It seems your temp. control board or thermistor is not reading the temps and just keeps on running and running. Can you lower it to the lowest setting and (with a thermometer) see if the temps actually get warmer inside (will take a day or two to warm up). As for the ice on the bottom if the drain for the defrost cycle is plugged you may be getting water inside which then re-freezes. Let us know what you find and we can go from there.