Question about Thermador CVS30R Kitchen Hood

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The vent is stuck in the "up" position. The fan still works. The switch was removed and tested and seems to open and close. Any other suggestions

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Hi, I have the same problem.Looks like this part is bad - http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor/487567/1052078which rises and lowers the vent.But no replacement instructions.....can someone help?

Posted on Nov 17, 2011

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Refrigerator the freezer is cold but other side is not, when I have the freezer door open cold air blows through the vent to the other side through the vent


First thing to try is Powering off the FF at the mains supply and leaving it standing for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not open any of the doors or touch any of the controls during this time. Then reconnect the power and wait for 30 to 60 minutes to see if the fault remains or is cured.

In side by sides if the freezer side is working OK and the fridge side is not working correctly it means that the air vent from the freezing unit to the fridge compartment has stuck in the closed or partially closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be. If it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position and the fridge temperature will continue to fall and become the same as the freezer, thereby freezing the contents of the fridge compartment. It can also get stuck in another position so that if the temperature is adjusted on the front panel then nothing happens to the temperature in the fridge compartment. The vent, which is usually at the tope of the fridge compartment on the side where it joins the freezer compartment, is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up. It can be come iced up by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. If the sync motor and vent are working Ok then there may be a fault with the fridge temperature sensor or main on board controller that will mean that the sensor or the controller will need replacing.

Also worth checking the return air path from the fridge and making sure it is not blocked or frozen up. Also check the freezer compartment and cooling panel at the rear (behind the cover plates) and the fan for icing / blockage up as it sounds like there is a mini vacuum being created when the freezer door is closed or you have too much in the frezer so it presses on the back plate and stops the mini fan circulating air to the fridge.

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2 Answers

Our frig is not cooling but the freezer works fine, it is a hotpoint side by side fri freezer... it made a humming noise for a while but that has stopped.. any help would be appriciated... what the trouble...


In side by sides if the fridge side not working correctly it means that the air vent from the freezing unit has stuck in the closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be and if it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position. The vent is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up, which can be caused by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. Best call a service engineer asap.

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2 Answers

Freezer works fridge not cooling on a Danby Designer fridge


HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.

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1 Answer

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so you mean the vents in the refer/frezer sections? yes ok there is a fan in the frezer section that moves the air thru out the box.its called the evaporator fan.you should hear a vissssss sound when you open the doors.some boxes you have to push the door switch closed with finger because fan goes off win door open.test fan with volt meter,should get 110 volts[may have to push that door switch in when testing]if voltage and not turning get new fan.hope that helps God bless ,tom

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