The fridge coils are not frosted over inside the freezer compartment niether compartment is cool. the compressor seems to want to start but runs for maybe 5 secs. when i first noticed the compressor was warm to the touch. i have since unplug the fridge. i lost all the food, when we got home everything had defrosted an all the ice melted all over the floor!!!! Please help. Could this be the compressor relay??
High pitch noise started coming from the
back it lasts for a couple of minutes then clicks off does this every 20 minutes or so.
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Re: Fridge not cooling compressor works intermitently
If the compressor starts and runs for a few seconds it could be the relay. Or it could be the compressor itself has failed. When a compressor starts and runs for a short period it is possible that the relay contacts are arced together which would have both the start and run winding in the motor engaged at the same time for more than 3 seconds. This would result in the compressor tripping out on the thermal overload. It depends on what type of relay your compressor has. If it is a thermal relay, unplugging the refrigerator for about 15 minutes would allow the relay to cool off and reset.
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Sounds like the defrost circuit of your fridge has failed. If you remove the back panel of the freezer compartment, you will see the evap coil encased with ice. Normally the defrost circuit will turn off the compressor and turn on a heater to warm the coil to about 45 degrees to melt any frost build up. After about 40 minutes the compressor will kick back in to keep your fridge cool again.
The typical failures are that the defrost heater burns out. If you have an older fridge, the defrost timer fails to advance, causing the fridge to stay in cooling or defrost mode.
Oncce the fridge was shut off and left for a while the cooling had come back . If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within. If after about 6 hours you observe cooling it is possible that the defrost timer is faulty. Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters. replace the defrost timer, heater or thermostat one you have confirmed to eliminate one by one.
The problem you describe is that your defrost circuit has failed. The fridge should stop the compressor periodically and turn on the defrost heater to melt the frost buildup. Since the frost in building up on your coils, the fan can't blow the cold air into the fridge compartment. It defrost is controlled by a module that turns on the heater. Most of these failures have to do with the defrost heating element burning out. It can be replaced by someone who has some mechanical ability.
The coil and heater is located in the back of the freezer compartment behind the panel in the back. You can obtain parts from appliance repair outlet or online like appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com.
Your cooling coils have frosted so much that there is ice forming allover the cooling coils and preventing the actual cooling inthe fridge. First of all shut off the fridge for about 10 hours and wait for all the ice to defrost. Clean up your fridge well and then check inside of the freezer compartment for break in wiring, failure of the heater or the thermostat. Now put the fridge on and see if the cooling comes back.If the set works ok then dont worry till you experience the same fault coming back. In this case your auto defrost timer could be faulty as it is not doing the 8 hours cycle defrosting. Check this out test and replace . Get help if you are not familiar. good day
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up
on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on
the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the
freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately
four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the
self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool.
Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount
of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils,
cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine
if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable
food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several
towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow).
This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice
build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal
setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with
one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heaterIf it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem
with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
If you have frozen coil at the back of the freezer section, then the defrost thermostat is usually failing. Allow the fridge to defrost completely overnight. If the fridge restarts cooling immediately after defrost, then the problem was the defrost system. In that case the fridge will stop cooling again in a couple of days, as soon as the evaporator coils restart freezing and the condenser goes under stress with the whole cooling system loosing efficiency.
If the frozen side is colder than normal and some extra frost is forming where the fan blows,and there is ice in the bottom of freezer compartment, and the cool side is not cool enough, their is a good possability the defrosting unit is not removing all the frost and ice . the defrosting unit has a timer (usually near thermostat) that turns off the cooling fan and compressor and turns on a small heater around the evaporator ( about 20 minutes every 2 days) (evaporaror is cold heat exchanger coil inside the back wall behind a cover near the recirculating fan0, the fan circulates air to both compartments through two small openings, if these openeing are closed by ice buildup cool air can not circulate to the cool side. cure 1. remove all food and leave fridge off for 24 hours with doors open (take precautions to ensure children can't get locked in side and suffocate, if you get a qt of water in bottom of unit (may leak on floor) ice buildup that the defrost heater can not remove melted and was your problem . turn frig on replace food on unit. cure 2. turn frig off, remove food from both sides, remove shelves that block access to evaporator, remove cover over evaporator if you see the evaporator coils free of ice look at openings (2) to other side, one may be blocked with ice the other with frost, carefully melt ice with hair dryer.
If the evaporator coil is solid ice heater or timer or fan has failed. good luck