Question about Refrigerators

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Controls set to 37and zero yet things start to thaw in freezer and refrig compartment gets balmy. Usually comes back by next day. The control module at the top rarely lights since about 6 months old. When it does start working it is usually to tell me it is not cooling properly. I have another thermometer to check the refrig temp when that is off, but have seen no problems when the control module isn't lit.

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  • connie_mspt Sep 03, 2010

    I have cleaned and checked everything. The power supply is as it should be. The refrigerator is now working perfectly. But it is not reliable. If I buy a new control module can I expect it to be reliable? I'm tired of having to move everything to the old reliable Whirlpool in the basement every 2 or 3 months when the control module acts up.

  • connie_mspt Sep 04, 2010

    Thank you! I opened up the back of my GE Profile refrigerator and found the 4 year old coils clean as promised by the manufacturer. I am concerned that the start relay may be the problem and I haven't found that part yet. I did note that the refrigerator seemed to be attempting to cool for a longer time when plugged in after being unplugged while I explored beneath the panels. The clicking sound is coming from a circuit board/computer looking thing behind a small panel on the left side about midway up looking at the back of the unit. I looked up the part I think it is in a diagram and it costs about $200 to purchase. I realize I may be zeroed in on the wrong part, and would like your input before I proceed to replace it.



    If I need a condenser for this thing, I'm junking it. It has not worked well since the beginning.

  • connie_mspt Sep 12, 2010

    GE model # PFS22SISBSS

    no longer cool in the frig section--icemaker still making ice and and freezer still 20 degrees

  • connie_mspt Sep 12, 2010

    My model does not have parts that look like your photos, there is a small part called a capacitor in the diagram, but I haven't found it yet. Freezer section still cold--rest is not.

  • connie_mspt Sep 17, 2010

    GE Profile

    Model PFS22SISBSS

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,478 Answers

Hello.

You need to check the temperature settings and see if there is enough air flow in the refrigerator and freezer. You need to check for air flow restrictions in the vents and clean the compressor coils. The door seals, door switch, defrost heater and timer has to be checked. Also clean the clogged drain tube and refrigerant leak.

Also check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. See if there is any damage to the electrical cord and check the outlet voltage. Troubleshoot the problem and if you do not find any of the above reasons as the cause of refrigerator not working, call the repairman.

Take care.

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

  • Jimoh Adeleke Muyideen Sep 03, 2010

    Hello,

    I will advice you change the control module, this will help fix the problem once and for all.

  • Jimoh Adeleke Muyideen Sep 12, 2010

    Hello,








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    The answer to these questions lies in the way the
    freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located.
    Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a
    small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some
    reason.



    The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons



    1. The fan or blower has failed.

    2. The coil is covered over with
      ice and blocks the air flow.




    The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator
    and things are good again.

    The second reason can be more difficult.

    1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is
    defective.

    2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working



    Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance
    through the coil then most likely it is still good.

    The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical
    timing device.

    If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.



    For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on
    it’s own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That
    will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up
    to the point where it will not work again.



    So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.



    1. The fan or blower

    2. The timer device

    3. The electric heater coil


    By methodically checking these parts you can isolate
    your problem and fix it.






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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 3,247 Answers

Unfortunately cannot provide you much help without knowing the make and model of the fridge. Is it please possible to provide this.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

  • Sam Sep 18, 2010

    Not sure what suggestions were made by other fixya consultants as the system does not allow me to see these.



    You can find the start relay for you model from this parts site. It is part 811 ub the diagram.



    Hope this helps.

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,
Often times when the capacitor and/or start relay for the compressor start to go bad the compressor will fail to start every time, but it will eventually start. This causes very erratic cooling.
I would change the start components first before checking out the compressor. Go with the easy stuff first before spending the big money.

Here are also some tips that I wrote about this that explain things further...

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Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101


Posted on Sep 03, 2010

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Frigidaire model FRS24WNF. Will not freeze (except the lower compartment of the freezer) nor transfer cold air to the refrigerator. The back panel above the coils freezes up. Once I turned off the unit...


Of necessity, this is going to be a very LONG answer, BUT... it COULD save you from buying another fridge. There could be several causes for your issue, but the most likely is a blockage [usually a buildup of "frost"] of/in the duct that carries cold air from the freezer compartment to the fridge compartment.

Not all, but MOST refrigerators work by having two controls for the two zones [freezer and fridge sections]. The first control [an actual thermostat] is for the freezer, and is what actually turns the compressor on and off. The other control is for a "damper" in the duct [or, SOMETIMES controls an in-duct FAN] from the freezer to the fridge section.

The compressor system cools the freezer, and the refrigerator section is cooled by transferring colder air from the freezer.

The freezer control should be set to keep the freezer at about minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit to about zero degrees. Then the fridge damper control [usually the control with the letters A, B, C, and D] is usually set to about the MIDDLE position, hopefully to keep the fridge section about 34 or 35 degrees to a max of about 38 degrees.

SINCE you say that the FREEZER IS operating PROPERLY, I suspect that the DUCT that is supposed to supply cold freezer air to the fridge is somehow blocked, and this is usually caused by an accumulation of FROST [frozen water VAPOR] in the duct. Note, and write down the "settings" for BOTH controls. You'll need these later to restart the fridge.

Although the "fix" is a pain in the ____ it is not that difficult. Here are the steps to correct:
1. Get one or more ice chests/coolers.
2. Remove ALL contents from the freezer and place together in one, or if necessary two of the coolers well covered by bag ice to preserve the contents. Put a couple of bowls, or anything, in the bottom first to keep the frozen stuff above water from the melting ice. Then pack the frozen stuff very tightly with as little open space as possible. Then pour crushed ice on top. Several times a day, drain the melt water from the drain on all the ice chests, and as necessary, add ice to replace that which melted.
3. Do the same thing with everything from the fridge section.
4. Then turn OFF the refrigerator, and CLEAN both the fridge and freezer VERY WELL. IF you don't clean both the freezer and fridge WELL you will get mold, mildew, and probably an offensive odor!
5. Then PROP the freezer AND fridge doors open AT LEAST a couple of inches, or MORE if possible. This will allow warmer household air inside. IF you have a portable fan to blow house air into the fridge section that will cause the frost to melt faster.

In a house with no air conditioning, in the summer, the blocked duct should thaw in well less than 24 hours. If you have air conditioning and no fan circulating air into/through the fridge it could take 2 or 3 days, but in any case, after 3 days, you should be ready to test the fridge.

6. Plug the fridge back into the wall outlet, set both the freezer thermostat and the fridge control back to their original settings when the fridge was cooling properly. [AGAIN I remind you that, at the very beginning, make note of, and write down the settings for both the freezer thermostatic control, and the fridge duct control]

7. Place a thermometer on a middle shelf of the fridge [and if possible, one in the freezer also] and check it/them after about 4 to 8 hours.

IF a frost blockage was the cause of the failure, the fridge should now be cooling properly again and when the fridge temperature gets down to below 36 or 37 degrees [F], then you can replace all the stuff into the fridge. IF none of the freezer stuff has thawed, then that can be replaced in the freezer. IF any has thawed, then cook it properly, and you can freeze it again if you want.

I know this is a lot of work, BUT... it sure is A WHOLE LOT LESS EXPENSIVE than replacing a refrigerator that DOESN'T NEED REPLACING!!!!!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Just had a new compressor installed. My refrigerator side by side is too cold. I have set the control to ''factory set'' but still is too cold. Adjusted to lower setting, still too cold, below 30. What is...


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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

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CHECK THE FREEZER FAN MAKE SURE ITS RUNNING AND IF THE BACK WALL OF THE FREEZER IS FROSTED UP YOU HAVE A DEFROST PROBLEM. I ONCE FOUND SOMETHING FELL BEHIND THE BASKET SO THE DOOR DIDNT SHUT ALL THE WAY, CHECK THIS AS WELL

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1 Answer

Whirlpool Model ED5SHAXML12 is freezing food in refrigerator even when dial is at off. Happened from one day to the next.


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1 Answer

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