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Re: I want to know if the electrolytic capacitor is...
Checking a capacitor with a meter tha does not have capacitance checker on it is difficult unless its an analog meter.. If its analiog you can place the leads on seperate terminals and the voltage will go up quickly then back down... try taking that capacitor to an electric motor repair place and I am sure they will check it for you..
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Other than Bad Connectors & Intermittent's?
Modern Tv's are digital computers.
They Rely on a clean well regulated power supply.
Any noise on the power supply rails can cause a 1 to become a zero & vise versa. Digital computers handle billions of 1 & 0's
I suspect you have a faulty Switchmode Power Supply Module.
Faulty because the Electrolytic Capacitors have chemicals on their plates and they go sour after a time.
Consequently they Leak or Bulge at the top & even blow the top.
Simple fix is replace the Power Supply Module (if separate PCB)
If your up to using a soldering iron, the following may help
There are no High Voltages like 30KV inside any more.
But there is the AC Mains voltage of 115 or 230 to contend with.
A Multimeter can be of help here.
Do you mean physically broken or
It just doesn't turn the tv on?
There are separate answers for each.
1:To fix a physically broken switch you could simply open the TV up and attach 2 wires to where the switch contacts are soldered to the PCB.
Run the wires to a new switch. Probably a NO (Normally Open) type. A Round switch could be mounted easily with a drill hole through an unused area of the case. Pressing a NO switch closes the contacts momentarily to trigger the digital turn On.
2:You could remove the old switch & attempt to get an actual replacement or a similar mountable switch from a components supplier.
3:If the switch is actually physically OK and the internal contacts are working (test with multimeter) then the problem is with the digital switch mode power supply that supplies power to the main circuits.
This would probably be caused by leaky Electrolytic Capacitors on the power supply PCB.
In that case, if your up to using a soldering iron and locating the Cap's then this would be an inexpensive way to fix the TV.
A) Computer is dirty inside. Power unplugged to it, and Anti-Static Procedures FOLLOWED, the computer case Side Panel is removed; and a can, or two of compressed air for computers is used.
(Attach the plastic straw provided, to the nozzle of the can of air. Break the plastic Lock Tab off of the top of the nozzle)
B) Bad Power Supply. Weak voltage power rail.
Test the 3 main voltages coming out of the Power Supply, with a multimeter set to DC Voltage. 3.3 Volts (DC) 5 Volts (DC) 12 Volts (DC)
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries, produce 3 Volts DC.
ALL Orange wires are 3.3 Volts ALL Red wires are 5 Volts ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volts
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative. The above wires are power wires, and they are Positive)
OR, Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a temporary test unit. If this is the problem, you know you need a Power Supply, and can reinstall the Power Supply you borrowed back into it's computer.
Blame it on the love of a woman, who wanted to get back at an Electrolytic Capacitor company, who fired her male lover. She tried to 'borrow' the Electrolytic Paste formula, and took it to a different country, and Electrolytic Capacitor manufacturer.
Unknown to her, the first Electrolytic Capacitor company caught wind of this before she did, and she unknowingly was given a bogus Electrolytic Paste formula.
It doesn't have the required chemical, to keep the Electrolytic Paste from developing a gas. (Hydrogen Gas)
These capacitors can operate from a few weeks, or up to a few years. Then go 'Kaput' one day. Problem started in the '70's, and is STILL plaguing us today.
There is one country that is noted for it's good Electrolytic Capacitors. There is another country that has been trying to come back, from being noted it has bad capacitors.
Manufacturers have been switching to Solid Capacitors for years. You will see them in the more 'high-end' products. Believe started with Tantalum Solid Capacitors, and went to Polymer Solid Capacitors.
YES! They can be replaced if this is the problem, and there is a pretty good chance the motherboard will be OK.
You do it? Cost is feasible, then.
Pro does it? IMHO it is more feasible to just replace the motherboard.
I use a straightened out paperclip, stuck down into the Positive wire's socket hole, in the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector. The back of the connector is where the wires go in.
[The 3.3 Volt wires, the 5 Volt wires, and the 12 Volt wires; are the Positive wires. ALL Black wires are Ground wires, or can be said as Negative also ]
The Straightened out paperclip is an extended probe lead, for the multimeter. It must slide down next to the insulation of the wire, and Touch a metal terminal.
EVERY wire going into the ATX main power cable (20 or 24-pin), ends in a metal female terminal. This female terminal slides over contact pins on the ATX main power cable's connector, on the motherboard.
20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard, as shown in the photo to the far right.
Straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, with any Orange wire in it. Pick ANY Orange wire. It is slid RIGHT NEXT TO the Orange insulation of the wire, until it touches the metal female terminal.
Now another straightened out paperclip, is inserted down into the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector, (Where the wires go in), down into a socket hole with ANY Black wire in it.
Down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the insulation of the Black wire, and touches the female metal terminal.
Power supply is plugged in. Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches straightened out paperclip in Orange wire socket hole. Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches straightened out paperclip in ANY Black wire's socket hole.
[Multimeter function knob is set to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line ]
You should be reading very close to 3.3 Volts.
Pick an Red wire, and Black wire; look for 5 Volts. Pick any Yellow wire, and Black wire; look for 12 Volts.
When a computer won't stay powered up, and it's a motherboard problem, the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard are the problem.
The ones used are Radial design. Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. They have an Electrolytic paste inside that goes bad, when they are failing, or have failed.
Newer designs of capacitors used are now Solid capacitors. Type used now is of Polymer design. Solid Polymer capacitor. Tantalum was the fore runner.
When these babies go bad you know it. They explode like miniature hand grenades. Shrapnel sprays inside the computer case.
So if you have a problem with capacitors on a motherboard, it will more than likely be Electrolytic Capacitors.
Computer design engineers know that the Electrolytic Paste inside an Electrolytic Capacitor, breaks down over time. It is a chemical, and has a chemical breakdown.
Due to this they use a capacitor that is rated at Twice, what is needed. Or can be said as 200 percent. This way when the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good for the circuit it is in.
So yes, it is highly feasible to replace capacitors, and have a working motherboard again.
[ To go deeper in case you are interested; Capacitors on a motherboard are used as Filters, and Voltage Regulators.
The ones used as voltage regulators, are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit,
1) Do the voltage values stay the same right before the shutdown, or do they drop?
2) Plus, Voltage values; Are you getting a full 3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts?
3) Check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard for visual signs of failure.
A) Electrolytic Capacitors are used on the motherboard as Filters, or Voltage Regulators, (Motherboard voltage regulator circuit)
B) Computer designers know that Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. This is why they use capacitors that are rated at 50 percent more than is needed. When the capacitor (Electrolytic) breaks down to the 50 percent level, it is still good enough.
C) The Electrolytic Capacitors used on the motherboard are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.
Basic construction of a R.A.E.C. is; 1) A cylindrical aluminum case shaped like a Coca-Cola can, but with no top, or bottom
2) Top seal is a Vent Cover. A flat round thin disk composed of Aluminum, that has a shape etched partway into it, in the middle. Usually a K or X.
3) Bottom seal is a Bung. A flat round thin disk composed of synthetic rubber.
4) Three strips. A) One strip is metal tinfoil composed of Aluminum. B) One strip is also aluminum tinfoil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it. C) One strip is a paper-like strip that is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.
Strip A is the Conducting strip. It has the Positive lead, (Think wire) attached to it. Strip B is the Non-Conducting strip. It has the Negative lead attached to it.
Strip C is placed in-between Strip A and B, and all three are rolled up tightly. The Positive lead, and Negative lead, poke down through the Bung at the bottom of the capacitor.
When the capacitor starts to fail a gas is developed inside. (Hydrogen Gas) The paste breaks down, and makes the gas.
The gas expands, and breaks the top Vent Cover open at the K or X, AND/OR, pushes one side edge of the Bung out.
The gas then slowly pushes the Electrolytic Paste out. (It oozes out)
So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.
The paste can also dry up inside, and show no visual outward signs of failure.
check components in your power supply using a multimeter - check diodes, resistors, electrolytic capacitors, transistors - however - ***working inside a TV is dangerous as hogh voltage can KILL you - so please have a qualified tech do this!