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I want to know if the electrolytic capacitor is working or not using digital multimeter. How can I do it?

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Checking a capacitor with a meter tha does not have capacitance checker on it is difficult unless its an analog meter.. If its analiog you can place the leads on seperate terminals and the voltage will go up quickly then back down... try taking that capacitor to an electric motor repair place and I am sure they will check it for you..

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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I own a Sony Bravia KLV 32BX300 for the last 5 years and it had been working great until March 2016 when it developed a problem.


Hi Raymond
Other than Bad Connectors & Intermittent's?

Modern Tv's are digital computers.
They Rely on a clean well regulated power supply.
Any noise on the power supply rails can cause a 1 to become a zero & vise versa. Digital computers handle billions of 1 & 0's

I suspect you have a faulty Switchmode Power Supply Module.
Faulty because the Electrolytic Capacitors have chemicals on their plates and they go sour after a time.
Consequently they Leak or Bulge at the top & even blow the top.

Simple fix is replace the Power Supply Module (if separate PCB)

If your up to using a soldering iron, the following may help
There are no High Voltages like 30KV inside any more.
But there is the AC Mains voltage of 115 or 230 to contend with.
A Multimeter can be of help here.

Good Luck

Switched mode power supply
Capacitor Replacement Tutorial
How to Replace an Electrolytic Capacitor
How to Use Multimeter
THE BEST Multimeter tutorial HD


Apr 05, 2016 | Sony Televison & Video

1 Answer

The power button is broken how to turn ontv


Hello Andrew

You didn't specify what you mean by "Broken"

Do you mean physically broken or
It just doesn't turn the tv on?
There are separate answers for each.

1:To fix a physically broken switch you could simply open the TV up and attach 2 wires to where the switch contacts are soldered to the PCB.
Run the wires to a new switch. Probably a NO (Normally Open) type. A Round switch could be mounted easily with a drill hole through an unused area of the case. Pressing a NO switch closes the contacts momentarily to trigger the digital turn On.

2:You could remove the old switch & attempt to get an actual replacement or a similar mountable switch from a components supplier.

3:If the switch is actually physically OK and the internal contacts are working (test with multimeter) then the problem is with the digital switch mode power supply that supplies power to the main circuits.

This would probably be caused by leaky Electrolytic Capacitors on the power supply PCB.
In that case, if your up to using a soldering iron and locating the Cap's then this would be an inexpensive way to fix the TV.

Good Luck
Switched mode power supply

Capacitor Replacement Tutorial
How to Replace an Electrolytic Capacitor

Apr 05, 2016 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

My emachine turn off by itself model C6423


A) Computer is dirty inside.
Power unplugged to it, and Anti-Static Procedures FOLLOWED, the computer case Side Panel is removed; and a can, or two of compressed air for computers is used.

(Attach the plastic straw provided, to the nozzle of the can of air.
Break the plastic Lock Tab off of the top of the nozzle)

B) Bad Power Supply.
Weak voltage power rail.

Test the 3 main voltages coming out of the Power Supply, with a multimeter set to DC Voltage.
3.3 Volts (DC)
5 Volts (DC)
12 Volts (DC)

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries, produce 3 Volts DC.

ALL Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
ALL Red wires are 5 Volts
ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volts

ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative. The above wires are power wires, and they are Positive)

OR,
Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a temporary test unit.
If this is the problem, you know you need a Power Supply, and can reinstall the Power Supply you borrowed back into it's computer.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

The DANGEROUS AC voltage is contained INSIDE, the metal case of the Power Supply.
There are Electrolytic Capacitors used in the Input Stage.
These may be rated to use UP TO 100 Volts.

After the Power Supply is unplugged from power, these capacitors can hold a charge for weeks, months, many times OVER a year.

Shock from them can be BAD to FATAL.

DO NOT attempt repairing the Power Supply, UNLESS; you know how to PROPERLY discharge all capacitors FIRST!

C) Bad Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard.
Specifically, they are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors,

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd_A

How do they go bad?

For one eMachines is a budget computer.
Not a bad thing, but they use low quality Power Supply's, and Electrolytic Capacitors.

For two;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Blame it on the love of a woman, who wanted to get back at an Electrolytic Capacitor company, who fired her male lover.
She tried to 'borrow' the Electrolytic Paste formula, and took it to a different country, and Electrolytic Capacitor manufacturer.

Unknown to her, the first Electrolytic Capacitor company caught wind of this before she did, and she unknowingly was given a bogus Electrolytic Paste formula.

It doesn't have the required chemical, to keep the Electrolytic Paste from developing a gas. (Hydrogen Gas)

These capacitors can operate from a few weeks, or up to a few years. Then go 'Kaput' one day.
Problem started in the '70's, and is STILL plaguing us today.

There is one country that is noted for it's good Electrolytic Capacitors. There is another country that has been trying to come back, from being noted it has bad capacitors.

Manufacturers have been switching to Solid Capacitors for years. You will see them in the more 'high-end' products.
Believe started with Tantalum Solid Capacitors, and went to Polymer Solid Capacitors.

YES!
They can be replaced if this is the problem, and there is a pretty good chance the motherboard will be OK.

You do it? Cost is feasible, then.

Pro does it?
IMHO it is more feasible to just replace the motherboard.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/595

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=12013592

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Mar 17, 2013 | E-Machines C6423 AMDAthlon 64 3400+ 2.2GHz...

1 Answer

My motherboard is not switchin on ...fans cuntinu to "ON " "OFF" again and again ..please help me.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121394

1) First look at the Electrolytic Capacitors.
They are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Looking at the motherboard installed in the computer case, to the immediate Left, and Top of the processor socket; are Solid Capacitors.
These have a Red mark on the top, on one side.

You'll also see another example with a Blue mark on one side, below the Ram Memory slots.

To the right of the Ram Memory slots, are grouped examples of Electrolytic capacitors.
Looking at these examples you'll note other examples on the motherboard.

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd_A

You're not only looking to see if the top, or sides are bulging, you are also looking to see if an Electrolytic Paste is oozing out of the top, or bottom.

Also look to see if the capacitor, seems to be leaning hard to one side. Means the gas that has developed inside, and is pushing the Electrolytic Paste out; has also pushed one side of the Bung down.

This makes the capacitor lean to one side.

[The capacitor case may be thought of as a 'Coca-Cola' can with no top, or bottom.
The top cover is a Vent Cover.
The bottom is a Bung. It is a flat round disk, made of synthetic rubber ]

L@@K CLOSE.
Use a flashlight, or bright light.

2) Power Supply:

To know if the Power Supply is good you have to measure the 3 main Voltages;
3.3 Volt
5 Volts
12 Volts ALL are DC Voltage.

[In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.
Telling you in case of fear of being shocked, while checking the 3 voltage power rails. {The above stated voltages}

The dangerous AC voltage, is contained inside the metal case of the Power Supply ]

This requires a multimeter, or volt meter.
An economical multimeter, (But plenty good enough for this test), ranges from $5 to $12. (USD)

Or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply for a temporary test unit.

Post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Mar 08, 2013 | Intel DH55TC Motherboard

1 Answer

Motherboards restarts on its own


Sounds like bad capacitors on the motherboard to me.

Electrolytic Capacitors, and to be more specific
Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/595

Find the values; Voltage and Capacitance
(Capacitance will be in Microfarads. Symbol is -. uf.
V = Volts. Also measure physical size of capacitor )

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt?P=1z0z7l5

Put values in fields.
Leave these fields Alone ->

1) Manufacturer
2) Lead Style
3) Tolerance
4) Operating Temperature Range
5) Product
6) Packaging

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

Could be a bad Power Supply, but I lean more towards the motherboard.
PSU's (Power Supply Units, or Power Supply's), have Electrolytic Capacitors too.

Don't recommend trying to replace in PSU, though.
S-H-O-C-K hazard even when unplugged from power, sometimes over a year. Just replace, after testing to see if it is bad with a multimeter.

Motherboard capacitors, yes.

Why?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 28, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

How do i know when its my motherboard is the problem and not the power supply when my computer wont stau powered up.


Usually Malisha the Power Supply is diagnosed first, to make sure it isn't the problem.
Motherboard checks are stated further in this solution.

Voltages coming out of the Power Supply are checked, Or a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply is borrowed from another computer, for a test unit.

High AC voltage, from 100 to 240 volts depending on what country you are in, goes into the Power Supply, and is converted into 3 low DC voltages;
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
Red wires are 5 Volts
Yellow wires are 12 Volts
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply#Wiring_diagrams

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

I use a straightened out paperclip, stuck down into the Positive wire's socket hole, in the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector.
The back of the connector is where the wires go in.

[The 3.3 Volt wires, the 5 Volt wires, and the 12 Volt wires; are the Positive wires.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires, or can be said as Negative also ]

The Straightened out paperclip is an extended probe lead, for the multimeter. It must slide down next to the insulation of the wire, and Touch a metal terminal.

EVERY wire going into the ATX main power cable (20 or 24-pin), ends in a metal female terminal. This female terminal slides over contact pins on the ATX main power cable's connector, on the motherboard.

This is an example of the Molex female terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

You can see the front open tips, of the female metal terminals, in the center photo,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Let's test the 3.3 Volt power rail.

20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard, as shown in the photo to the far right.

Straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, with any Orange wire in it. Pick ANY Orange wire.
It is slid RIGHT NEXT TO the Orange insulation of the wire, until it touches the metal female terminal.

Now another straightened out paperclip, is inserted down into the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector, (Where the wires go in), down into a socket hole with ANY Black wire in it.

Down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the insulation of the Black wire, and touches the female metal terminal.

Power supply is plugged in.
Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches straightened out paperclip in Orange wire socket hole.
Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches straightened out paperclip in ANY Black wire's socket hole.

[Multimeter function knob is set to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line ]

You should be reading very close to 3.3 Volts.

Pick an Red wire, and Black wire; look for 5 Volts.
Pick any Yellow wire, and Black wire; look for 12 Volts.

When a computer won't stay powered up, and it's a motherboard problem, the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard are the problem.

The ones used are Radial design.
Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.
They have an Electrolytic paste inside that goes bad, when they are failing, or have failed.

Newer designs of capacitors used are now Solid capacitors. Type used now is of Polymer design.
Solid Polymer capacitor.
Tantalum was the fore runner.

When these babies go bad you know it. They explode like miniature hand grenades. Shrapnel sprays inside the computer case.

So if you have a problem with capacitors on a motherboard, it will more than likely be Electrolytic Capacitors.

1) Visual identification of failure,

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN6_-8fYHo0

3) http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

4) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

5) http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw/

Have I replaced capacitors on motherboards, and to have them work just fine afterwards? Yes. Using one right now that I changed 'caps' on, back in 2008.

1) There was a Capacitor Plague that has been around since the '70's, and is still affecting us. Company espionage,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

2) The second thing in this 'equation',....

Computer design engineers know that the Electrolytic Paste inside an Electrolytic Capacitor, breaks down over time.
It is a chemical, and has a chemical breakdown.

Due to this they use a capacitor that is rated at Twice, what is needed. Or can be said as 200 percent.
This way when the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good for the circuit it is in.

So yes, it is highly feasible to replace capacitors, and have a working motherboard again.

[ To go deeper in case you are interested;
Capacitors on a motherboard are used as Filters, and Voltage Regulators.

The ones used as voltage regulators, are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616 ]

Need guidance in removing, and replacing capacitors? Post in a Comment.
Have additional questions? Post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Nov 14, 2012 | Intel Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Motherboard


Then I suggest replace them.

I do not know what C7 capacitor is, nor the H7 designation you stated.
C7 would suggest Capacitor number 7, to me.
H7 would suggest a different electronic component.

If it is just capacitor replacement, and you have the tools, knowledge, and access to the capacitors, I would say perform the repair.

Electrolytic Capacitors are the weakest link of an electronic component.
They are designed to be.

Computer engineers, and designers know this. They know that as time goes on, an electrolytic capacitor will break down. The chemical composition inside breaks down. (Electrolytic Paste)

This is why they use capacitors that are rated at twice the capability, of what is needed. As the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good of what is needed.

Capacitors used on a motherboard, (Electrolytic or solid Polymer capacitors), are used as Filters, and Voltage Regulators.

The one's used as voltage regulators, are in the Motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit,

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

Part of what the motherboard voltage regulator circuit does, is to regulate voltage for the Processor.

The Processor MUST have a steady, 'clean' supply of voltage, AND it must be within a VERY tight tolerance range.
Too much, or too little, and the Processor turns off. (BIOS turns it off)

Also, these particular capacitors are in a Series circuit. This means that if even ONE goes bad, the entire circuit is down.

A) http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

B) http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

C) http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt/

{ Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors }

(They are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, that are used on an Intel D865GBF motherboard.

Use the information in A) above, to find the capacitor manufacturer's ratings. Voltage and Capacitance. {Microfarad}
You can match up the diameter, and length, by measuring the capacitor)

D) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

" A picture is worth a thousand words"

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Jan 01, 2012 | Intel D865GBF Motherboard

1 Answer

In hardware monitor i see bad values of voltage, if i measure with a multimeter the values are ok. after about 3 minutes the pc shout down. i cant find manual or schematic all tested links dont...


1) Do the voltage values stay the same right before the shutdown, or do they drop?

2) Plus, Voltage values; Are you getting a full 3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts?

3) Check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard for visual signs of failure.

A) Electrolytic Capacitors are used on the motherboard as Filters, or Voltage Regulators, (Motherboard voltage regulator circuit)

B) Computer designers know that Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. This is why they use capacitors that are rated at 50 percent more than is needed. When the capacitor (Electrolytic) breaks down to the 50 percent level, it is still good enough.

C) The Electrolytic Capacitors used on the motherboard are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Basic construction of a R.A.E.C. is;
1) A cylindrical aluminum case shaped like a Coca-Cola can, but with no top, or bottom

2) Top seal is a Vent Cover. A flat round thin disk composed of Aluminum, that has a shape etched partway into it, in the middle. Usually a K or X.

3) Bottom seal is a Bung. A flat round thin disk composed of synthetic rubber.

4) Three strips.
A) One strip is metal tinfoil composed of Aluminum.
B) One strip is also aluminum tinfoil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
C) One strip is a paper-like strip that is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

Strip A is the Conducting strip. It has the Positive lead, (Think wire) attached to it.
Strip B is the Non-Conducting strip. It has the Negative lead attached to it.

Strip C is placed in-between Strip A and B, and all three are rolled up tightly.
The Positive lead, and Negative lead, poke down through the Bung at the bottom of the capacitor.

When the capacitor starts to fail a gas is developed inside. (Hydrogen Gas) The paste breaks down, and makes the gas.

The gas expands, and breaks the top Vent Cover open at the K or X, AND/OR, pushes one side edge of the Bung out.

The gas then slowly pushes the Electrolytic Paste out. (It oozes out)

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

The paste can also dry up inside, and show no visual outward signs of failure.

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Power unplugged to computer, Anti-Static Precautions observed, the motherboard should be removed for visual inspection of the capacitors.
It may require using a magnifying glass, and a good light.

Post back in a Comment as to your findings.

Regards,
joecoolvette

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

Oct 03, 2011 | Shuttle MK40VN Motherboard

1 Answer

ET 1161-05 IS NOT TURN ON THE POWER SUPLLY IS OK THEY SAID THE PROBLEM IS MOTHER BOARD BUT IN NOT SURE .


If the motherboard is bad, generally the problem is bad Electrolytic Capacitors.

Visual signs of capacitor failure,

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/

The eMachines ET-1161 uses an ECS MCP61GM-PM motherboard

http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHERBD/Shared/4006203R/4006203Rmv.shtml

Who tested the Power Supply? You or them?

Has the test been performed to see if the problem is a bad Power On switch, or the Power Supply?
If you want to know how to perform this simple test post in a Comment.

Do you have access to a multimeter, or is a $5 to $10 multimeter in your budget?

Dec 10, 2010 | eMachines ET1161-05 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Sound quality poor on hitachi 50ux26b


check components in your power supply using a multimeter - check diodes, resistors, electrolytic capacitors, transistors - however - ***working inside a TV is dangerous as hogh voltage can KILL you - so please have a qualified tech do this!

Jul 03, 2010 | Hitachi 50UX57B 50" Rear Projection...

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