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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Older 3 wire connectors where Wht=Neutral Ground Return, Red=One Phase Hot, Blk=Second Phase Hot, of 220VAC stove connections.
Newer Electrical code standard has a forth wire that is bare copper for a separate safety ground return.
I suggest you but a 4 wire pig tail cable for your stove top, available at Depot or Lowes, and connect 3 wires of this 4 wire cable just like the 3 wires are now connected. The 4th bare copper safety is attached to any metal part of the stove. Find a screw you can loosen to wrap it around and tighten.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
Depends on whether you want the pilot to glow when the circuit is live (the main light is on) or to glow when the circuit is off. (The switch can be used either way, and I have used this switch in both configurations at different places.)
The wiring diagram is on the inside of the box.
In indicates that if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is off, then you only need two wires (the live and the return, usually colored black and white, respectively). However, you also need a ground. The instructions say that you need the ground for safety (and probably legal code) reasons, but I suspect that, without the ground, the pilot light won't work in this configuration.
However, if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is on, you probably need a three wire configuration (plus the ground).
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 05, 2009
The kit should just be a heater that piggy backs off the 2 wires going to your cold controle or thermostat. orange and black go back on the cold control with the heater piggy backed. The kit heats the cold control to make it think its warmer in the room or box than it is so it will run long enough to keep frezer frozen.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
Hello. The red and the black are the hot wires. Therefore, connect one of your conductors to the red and the other conductor to the black. Use wirenuts. The bare ground wire should be solidly attached to the new unit's green wire using a wire nut.
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Posted on Jan 06, 2010
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Aug 24, 2011 | Emerson Dryers
Turn off the power to the receptacle that will be replaced by switching off the circuit breaker in the fuse box. Check that the battery is good in a circuit tester. If not, replace the battery. Place the tester's two ends in one set of the receptacle's slots, then the other set. The light on the tester should not come on. If it does, the correct circuit breaker has not been switched off.
Take off the receptacle's face plate by first removing its screw. Detach the two screw securing the receptacle to the box and pull out the receptacle. Loosen the receptacle's terminal screws and pull away all wires from the back of the receptacle. Take out the receptacle (if working properly, it can be reused). If the ends of the wires are chewed up after removing them from the existing receptacle, cut them off with wire cutters. Strip off 1/2 an inch of insulation from the ends, using wire strippers. Bend them into loops with the pliers.
Bend the copper ends of all wires into a loop, using a pliers. Connect the white wires to the silver terminal and tighten the screw to the wires. Connect the black wires to the gold terminal and tighten the screw to the wires. Connect the bare ground wires to the ground terminal and tighten the screw to the wires.
Push all cables into the back of the box, followed by the receptacle. Attach the receptacle to the box with the two screws. Hold the new faceplate in position and install the screw. Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.
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