Is it possible that the handle and the inside lever are seperating and you need to replace the handle?Is it possible that the handle and the inside lever are seperating and you need to replace the handle?
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Part 1 Video Discussing the Dis-assembly & Inspection of the Bottom Bracket & Spindle for a LeMond RevMaster Bike
This Part 1 video will demonstrate how to inspect and adjust or remove and replace the bottom bracket and spindle on your Lemond Revmaster
Tools needed for this procedure:
8mm Allen Wrench or Socket
Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
Lock Ring Removal Tool
Bottom Bracket Tool
Phillips Screwdriver
4mm Allen Wrench
Bungee (optional)
Rubber Mallet
7/8" Wrench
To begin remove the belt cover, there are four screws
You will need a 4MM Allen wrench
Now remove the two screws on the back from the opposite side of the bike
You will need a Phillips screwdriver
Now position the crank arm as seen in the video and remove the belt cover from the bike
Before removing the drive belt, tighten the brake assembly so that the flywheel is locked in place and loosen the torque on both bolts using an 8mm Allen wrench or socket
Do not remove them at this time only loosen them by a half a turn or so
Using a 7/8" wrench loosen the belt idler
Now use a 4mm Allen wrench to loosen the tension adjustment bolt completely, but do not remove it from the frame
Now remove the drive belt
To aid in this process you can use a bungee to slide in behind the belt at the top, as shown in the video
Then pull away from the bike while spinning the crank arms
Now remove both crank bolts with a 8MM Allen wrench or socket
Removal of the crank bolt on the left side of the bike is the same as removal from the right side
Now remove the crank arms with a crank arm puller, threading the outer portion into the crank arm as shown in the video
Be sure to thread the outer portion in as far as possible to prevent damage to the crank arm threads or the tools threads
Use a 7/8" wrench to make sure the outer portion is threaded in completely
Now spin the handle clockwise to press the crank arm off of the bike
Be careful when the crank arm comes off as if you are not holding it, it can fall in the floor
Also use the wrench to loosen the tool before removing the crank arm from the unit
Now you can unthread the tool from the cranks arm by hand after removing the crank arm from the bike
Next inspect the bottom bracket cups for looseness, to do this use the bottom bracket tool by hand to see if you can turn either of the bearing cups
To further verify the adjustment of your bottom bracket use a rubber mallet to tap lightly on each side of the spindle to check for movement from side to side, if you have movement, or one or both of the bearing cups is loose, you need to re-adjust the bottom bracket. If you are only inspecting the bottom bracket and did not find any need for adjustment you would re-assemble the bike at this point
Once the crank arms are removed look closely at the spindle
It should have defined edges and be smooth
As you can see by the video our spindle needs to be replaced
Next you will need to remove the lock ring
The lock ring is around the bottom bracket cup on the left side of the bike
In the video is an example of a lock ring
To use the lock ring tool you slip it over the lock ring using the three notches and torque the lock ring in the proper direction
This one needs to be turned counter-clockwise to loosen
Then remove the lock ring by spinning it off the bearing cup
Next you will need to use the bottom bracket tool to remove the bottom bracket cups
Begin with the left side
Slip the tool into the splines of the cup and loosen
For stubborn bottom brackets use a 5/16"-24 x 2" bolt and some washers with a 1-1/4" wrench
Slip the tool into the splines and thread the bolt with the washers into the spindle
Get it snug but not completely tight
Now use the wrench to turn the cup counter-clockwise for the left side and remove it completely
Remove the cup from the right side now
Slip the bottom bracket tool into the splines of the cup and turn it clockwise to loosen
For stubborn bottom brackets use a 5/16"-24 x 2" bolt and some washers with a 1-1/4" wrench
Slip the tool into the splines and thread the bolt with the washers into the spindle
If you cannot get the cups loose with this method try turning the bike on its side to get better leverage as shown in the video
This concludes the dis-assembly and inspection procedure of the LeMond RevMaster bottom bracket & spindle
Make sure the jets in the UPPER arm are all clear, and that there's no debris inside the top turret. On the bottom arm, IF the lower turret has (or is supposed to have) a rotating baffle, make sure it's in place - this looks like a very loose washer on the lower turret, running in a groove ~ the plastic versions get lost, the metal versions slip down and don't do their job.
Clean the drain channels along the bottom of the door and especially around the hinges, you will probably need a thin bottle brush or a steamer to get into the nooks and crannies.
you may have a bad set of splines either on the wiper transmission arm that the wiper arm attaches to or the splines in the wiper arm were it makes contact with the attaching point that you tighten.look closely as if these splines are bad it won`t matter how tight it is it will slip.you may have to get a new wiper arm(or used)or replace the wiper transmission depending what you find.assuming of course you mean the wiper will not move at the speed it should be compared to the other arm
there is a clip that holds the arms in place and it slipt off track dealer sugests that u buy the part, the complet asembly costs about 140 dollars. u can take the cowl apart and slip it back on but i will slip off again and, and all because a stuped plastic cllip that they dont sell separete. hope this help...
Unless there's something wrong with the linkages; which I can't imagine...
It almost has to be the nut is loose on the passenger side.
Make sure the wipers are off and the igition is off.
According to what you say, the driver's wiper is in the correct "parked" position.
On the passenger side wiper arm, pop off the plastic cover at the pivot point of the arm.
Underneath, there is a nut. Loosen the nut a little. Wiggle the arm while pushing the arm down. Hold arm in place and tighten the nut. Replace cover.
If that doesn't take care of it, you may have to remove the arm completely and check the tapered spline underneath. Either the arm or the post spline may be stripped. Maybe try a new arm, as the post will be more difficult to replace.
if you still have part of the handle attached or not you will find either a pin or screw on the winder shaft just undo this and fit the new one a 2min job easy
I fixed it, but I still don't know for sure what the "CE" error code is. I guess it is for the water distributor. I opened it up. There are some gears in there that move a mechanical arm that distributes the water into different containers. The mechanical arm moves around an axis -- it was very difficult to move, so the gears kept slipping. I opened it, and put some greaze inside. Closing it up was a real pain. But it works, and I didn't have to wait around to receive a new distributor.
Is it possible that the handle and the inside lever are seperating and you need to replace the handle?
×