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Flush handleis loose and slips around arm making complete action difficult

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  • BigGrip Sep 02, 2010

    Is it possible that the handle and the inside lever are seperating and you need to replace the handle?

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  • 28 Answers

Remove toilet tank lid and you will see a nut that screws on to the handle that can be tightened.

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

  • rcb_penn Sep 02, 2010

    Have tried tightening "inner nut" with no results.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Meiko 530F leaks from doors bottom corners while washing, any hints, water level senson seems fine


Make sure the jets in the UPPER arm are all clear, and that there's no debris inside the top turret. On the bottom arm, IF the lower turret has (or is supposed to have) a rotating baffle, make sure it's in place - this looks like a very loose washer on the lower turret, running in a groove ~ the plastic versions get lost, the metal versions slip down and don't do their job.
Clean the drain channels along the bottom of the door and especially around the hinges, you will probably need a thin bottle brush or a steamer to get into the nooks and crannies.

Feb 20, 2015 | Meiko Dishwashers

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Bottom Bracket & Spindle Replacement of LeMond RevMaster


Part 1 Video Discussing the Dis-assembly & Inspection of the Bottom Bracket & Spindle for a LeMond RevMaster Bike

  • This Part 1 video will demonstrate how to inspect and adjust or remove and replace the bottom bracket and spindle on your Lemond Revmaster
  • Tools needed for this procedure:
    • 8mm Allen Wrench or Socket
    • Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
    • Lock Ring Removal Tool
    • Bottom Bracket Tool
    • Phillips Screwdriver
    • 4mm Allen Wrench
    • Bungee (optional)
    • Rubber Mallet
    • 7/8" Wrench
  • To begin remove the belt cover, there are four screws
    • You will need a 4MM Allen wrench
  • Now remove the two screws on the back from the opposite side of the bike
    • You will need a Phillips screwdriver
  • Now position the crank arm as seen in the video and remove the belt cover from the bike
  • Before removing the drive belt, tighten the brake assembly so that the flywheel is locked in place and loosen the torque on both bolts using an 8mm Allen wrench or socket
    • Do not remove them at this time only loosen them by a half a turn or so
  • Using a 7/8" wrench loosen the belt idler
  • Now use a 4mm Allen wrench to loosen the tension adjustment bolt completely, but do not remove it from the frame
  • Now remove the drive belt
    • To aid in this process you can use a bungee to slide in behind the belt at the top, as shown in the video
  • Then pull away from the bike while spinning the crank arms
  • Now remove both crank bolts with a 8MM Allen wrench or socket
    • Removal of the crank bolt on the left side of the bike is the same as removal from the right side
  • Now remove the crank arms with a crank arm puller, threading the outer portion into the crank arm as shown in the video
    • Be sure to thread the outer portion in as far as possible to prevent damage to the crank arm threads or the tools threads
    • Use a 7/8" wrench to make sure the outer portion is threaded in completely
    • Now spin the handle clockwise to press the crank arm off of the bike
    • Be careful when the crank arm comes off as if you are not holding it, it can fall in the floor
    • Also use the wrench to loosen the tool before removing the crank arm from the unit
    • Now you can unthread the tool from the cranks arm by hand after removing the crank arm from the bike
  • Next inspect the bottom bracket cups for looseness, to do this use the bottom bracket tool by hand to see if you can turn either of the bearing cups
    • To further verify the adjustment of your bottom bracket use a rubber mallet to tap lightly on each side of the spindle to check for movement from side to side, if you have movement, or one or both of the bearing cups is loose, you need to re-adjust the bottom bracket. If you are only inspecting the bottom bracket and did not find any need for adjustment you would re-assemble the bike at this point
  • Once the crank arms are removed look closely at the spindle
    • It should have defined edges and be smooth
  • As you can see by the video our spindle needs to be replaced
  • Next you will need to remove the lock ring
    • The lock ring is around the bottom bracket cup on the left side of the bike
      • In the video is an example of a lock ring
    • To use the lock ring tool you slip it over the lock ring using the three notches and torque the lock ring in the proper direction
      • This one needs to be turned counter-clockwise to loosen
    • Then remove the lock ring by spinning it off the bearing cup
  • Next you will need to use the bottom bracket tool to remove the bottom bracket cups
    • Begin with the left side
      • Slip the tool into the splines of the cup and loosen
        • For stubborn bottom brackets use a 5/16"-24 x 2" bolt and some washers with a 1-1/4" wrench
          • Slip the tool into the splines and thread the bolt with the washers into the spindle
          • Get it snug but not completely tight
      • Now use the wrench to turn the cup counter-clockwise for the left side and remove it completely
    • Remove the cup from the right side now
      • Slip the bottom bracket tool into the splines of the cup and turn it clockwise to loosen
        • For stubborn bottom brackets use a 5/16"-24 x 2" bolt and some washers with a 1-1/4" wrench
          • Slip the tool into the splines and thread the bolt with the washers into the spindle
    • If you cannot get the cups loose with this method try turning the bike on its side to get better leverage as shown in the video
  • This concludes the dis-assembly and inspection procedure of the LeMond RevMaster bottom bracket & spindle
  • Click here to see Part 2, re-assembly and installation to complete the replacement procedure
Video of Bottom Bracket and Spindle Replacement Part 1 Dis assembly LeMond...

on Feb 19, 2015 | Lemond Revmaster Lemond G-Force Digital...

1 Answer

Wiper arm slips on shaft after tighting on 1996 sentra


you may have a bad set of splines either on the wiper transmission arm that the wiper arm attaches to or the splines in the wiper arm were it makes contact with the attaching point that you tighten.look closely as if these splines are bad it won`t matter how tight it is it will slip.you may have to get a new wiper arm(or used)or replace the wiper transmission depending what you find.assuming of course you mean the wiper will not move at the speed it should be compared to the other arm

Apr 02, 2012 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

2 Answers

MY NISSAN MURANO ..The windshield wipers wont move on my 2005 Nissan Murano..I CAN HEAR THE MOTOR BUT ITS NOT MOVING THE ARM


there is a clip that holds the arms in place and it slipt off track dealer sugests that u buy the part, the complet asembly costs about 140 dollars. u can take the cowl apart and slip it back on but i will slip off again and, and all because a stuped plastic cllip that they dont sell separete. hope this help...

Jan 21, 2011 | 2005 Nissan Murano

1 Answer

Drivers side windshield wiper is working properly but passanger side quit it works sometimes


Unless there's something wrong with the linkages; which I can't imagine...
It almost has to be the nut is loose on the passenger side.

Make sure the wipers are off and the igition is off.
According to what you say, the driver's wiper is in the correct "parked" position.
On the passenger side wiper arm, pop off the plastic cover at the pivot point of the arm.
Underneath, there is a nut. Loosen the nut a little. Wiggle the arm while pushing the arm down. Hold arm in place and tighten the nut. Replace cover.

If that doesn't take care of it, you may have to remove the arm completely and check the tapered spline underneath. Either the arm or the post spline may be stripped. Maybe try a new arm, as the post will be more difficult to replace.

Oct 08, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Pedal is off center & scraping side


Hello there. What has more than likely happened is that one of your crank arms have come loose. The front covers to access the crank arms are removeable but difficult to do. There are 11 screws and three clips that hold the covers on each side. You will also need an 8 inch phillips head screw driver to remove the covers.
First remove power to the machine.
Second, Using the 8 inch screw driver remove the screw in the hole that is visible on the side of the unit.
Then remove the screw in the hole located just above the arm assembly
Another screw is located inside the cup holder remove that as well
after removing the screw in the cup holder you can lift the cup holder up slightly and access the two screws for the lower cover. There is also another screw under the cupholder holding the side shield on remove that as well.
Next go to the bottom of the lower cover. There will be two screws holding the lower part of the cover on. There are clips on each side of the cover which also connect it to the side shields. If you pull gently on the sides of the cover it will pop off. Only three more screws to go.
If you have the ability to tilt the machine on its side it will help in this step. There are three screws also holding the bottom of the side shield on. remove those as well.
The only thing holding the cover on now are three clips in the front of the machine. These will be difficult to remove! You have to partially seperate the two shields from the top and working your way down pull the two shields away from each other. They will make a loud noise when they come loose so beware.
Once you have gotten the cover loose you can raise it up over the arm assembly.
You can now start working on the original problem.
Once inside you need to locate the crank arm assembly. (this is where the pedal leg connects ) You will see a bolt going through the crank arm where it connects to the crank shaft. both the right and left crank arms should be flush with the crank shaft. To realign the arms you must loosen the bolt holding the crank arm and also loosen the allen screw holding the locating key in place. The arm should then be movable to a point where it can be tapped back flush with the crank shaft. Retighten the bolt loosened in the previous step first. Then retighten the locating key allan screw Be sure to use alot of pressure when tightening the crank bolts to be sure you will not have to do this again.
Reverse the procedure for the covers to reinstall them.
Good Luck! Tim

Dec 20, 2009 | Reebok Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

I want to replace a broken passenger side door handleis this easy or difficult I am quite a competent mechanic?


if you still have part of the handle attached or not you will find either a pin or screw on the winder shaft just undo this and fit the new one a 2min job easy

Nov 14, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

AEG LAVAMAT 74620 shows "CE" error


I fixed it, but I still don't know for sure what the "CE" error code is. I guess it is for the water distributor. I opened it up. There are some gears in there that move a mechanical arm that distributes the water into different containers. The mechanical arm moves around an axis -- it was very difficult to move, so the gears kept slipping. I opened it, and put some greaze inside. Closing it up was a real pain. But it works, and I didn't have to wait around to receive a new distributor.

Dec 27, 2008 | AEG Lavamat 16810 Front Load Washer/Dryer

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