I have a plug at the back of the engine compartment that I do not know where to plug it in - it is about 1/4" round and about 1-1/2 long with a band in that wraps around the center (plastic band part of the plug) - it comes from a harness that is located at the rear of the engine just above the trasnmission. The harness and wire is surrounded by corrugated protective plastic

I think your rubber band is not round your drum proper youve got toun plug it pull it out un screw lidput your hand down front of washer insideand feel round rubber and if it feels like its come away then you have a metal loop that may need puttin back proper so you will have unscrew it and movethe metal rim and putthe rubber back into slot again all the best

the throttle body is where the black round air recieving hose that goes to the throttle body which is on top of the engine, it normally has 2 medium size metal bands, 1 on each end, that tightened up or loosen. " in order to get to the throttle body, loosen the bands with a screwdriver, then remove the hose,then , you can clean the throttle body, with a throttle body spray cleaner, that you can purchase at a auto parts store.

What you have to do is unhook the heater core and loop one of the hoses. Go in the engine compartment and unclamp the 2 hoses from the heater core at the firewall [1] in below picture. Also unclamp one of the hoses at the engine, and circle the other hose back onto that pipe, so that one hose is no longer used but the second hose goes from the engine right back to the engine. Let me know if you have questions.

The band adjustment in not a torque adjustment. Drop the main pan on the transmission. You will see the valve body with filter on it. At the rear drivers side you will see a round dome piece with a flat flange with four bolts in it. Remove the bolts and take this cover off. Now you will see a round piston with an adjustment screw in it. Break the jam nut loose and tighten the allen bolt in until tight. Back off five complete turns and reset jam nut. When you have the pan off, take note of how much clutch material is in it. If you have a lot it could be time to replace the clutches. Also it is a good idea to put in a new filter if you are in there. Good luck

It won't shift 1-2 or 2-3 or both unless you let off? If it is just 1-2 it might be a band adjustment, but I'll bet you have a plugged governor solenoid screen also.

How to Change Headlights in a Toyota Corolla. :--- the procedure is as follows:-------- 1)Unfasten the battery cables on the Toyota Corolla with an open end wrench and remove the battery from the engine compartment. Set the cables aside so that they do not come into contact with each other or any metal parts. 2)Remove the coolant and water containers that are in the engine compartment near the front of the motor by undoing the brackets that are holding them in place with a socket wrench and moving the containers aside. They only need to be moved enough to provide you access to the area behind the headlamps and do not need to be drained.3)Locate the headlight plug on the back of the headlight and turn the plug 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to loosen the plug. Then pull it straight back to detach it from the headlight.4)Locate the clip on the side of the plug and push it in and up to detach the old headlight bulb. Take the old bulb out of the plug and place the new bulb in the plug using a clean cloth to handle the bulb.5)Push the new bulb in to the plug and turn it until you hear the clip lock into place. Insert the plug into the back of the head light assembly and turn it 1/4 turn clockwise to secure the plug. 6)Repeat this procedure with the other headlight bulb and then move the coolant and water containers into place and secure then to the vehicle. Put the Toyota Corolla battery back in the engine compartment and reattach the battery cables. Thats it. This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

it's located on the drivers side in front of motor,housed in large black plastic case with screws

first thing is to check fuel preasure make sure engine is getting fuel,then check for spark at plugs, (one plug) the smoke good be from a slight backfire from not enough fuel good luck.

it should be in the front of the engine hooked to the trany it could be on the back side of the engine it is round looking.

Message:
My 2002 Dakota has been somewhat confused about shifting as well. It showed a code P1762. I dropped the pan to install a new fluid filter and fluid-(use only ATF+3 or ATF+4). Since the pan was off I decided to adjust the bands. The front band controls the 2nd gear cluster. The rear band controls the 3rd gear cluster and reverse. For a 2-3 shift, the transmission shifts back to 1st gear with the front band while the rear band engages 3rd gear. If the front band does not release the 2nd gear clutches before the third gear clutches engage, the transmission binds, which shortens the life of the transmission clutches. If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift.
The front band adjusting screw is on the driver's side above the shift linkage. The rear band is inside the fluid pan near the filter.
1. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary. The front band adjuster is on the outside of the transmission and the locknut requires a 3/4" wrench.

2. Using Inch Pound Torque Wrench C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and appropriate Torx� socket (T-40), tighten adjusting screw to 72 in-lb. CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 (from SPX Miller) is needed to reach the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 47-50 in. lbs. torque.

3. Back off adjusting screw the number of turns listed below for your transmission.

4. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten lock-nut to:

41 N�m (30 ft. lbs.) for the front band
34 N�m (25 ft. lbs.) for the rear band
The adjustment screw inside the case is a square head bolt. You will need a 1/4 square head socket to fit your torque wrench.
Band adjustments for each model year:
1994

* Front Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns (all transmissions)
* Rear Band
o 32/42RH - Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
o 36/37/46/47RH - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns

1995-1996

* Front Band
o 42RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
o 46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1997-1998

* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3-5/8 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1999

* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
+ The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4" hex driver, the front band requires a
T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx drive

2000-2002

* Front Band
o 42RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
o 44RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
o 46RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
o 47RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
From Bill Konolday's 47RE notes: I usually go a little looser than factory
specs on this front band - backing off the adjustment screw 2 or 2 1/4 turns.
Depending on the circumstances I have backed off the band up to 2 1/2 turns.
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 44RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2003

* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1-3/4 turns
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2005

* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds,
back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns for diesel vehicles,
or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

94+ Automatic Transmission Bolt and Nut Torque Specs

* Front band adjustment locknut - 30 ft-lb
* Rear band adjustment locknut - 25 ft-lb
* Transmission pan bolts - 13 ft-lb
I just replaced the solenoid with the recommended transducer and all is fine now. The transducer cost me about $50 at a nearby dealership.
Hope this helps. -zman. [email protected]