Question about True 598-TR1FRI1S Freezer Roll in One Section 37 cu ft for 27

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True Commercial Refrigerator. Won't cool. Getting warmer. Running. Cleaned coils (vacuumed dust regularly)

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: True commercial 42 cubic foot refrigerator is

check the coindenser coil underneith ther unit for a dirty condenser coil

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: the motor on the Kenmore refrigerator is running continuously. How do I stop it? I just cleaned out the dust from the coils underneath and replaced the kick-plate at the bottom

Modern refrigerators have an 85% run time

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 103 Answers

SOURCE: the motor on the Kenmore refrigerator is running continuously. How do I stop it? I just cleaned out the dust from the coils underneath and replaced the kick-plate at the bottom

Hi: I've dealt with Kenmore for 30 years. Unfortunately the new model numbers don't reveal the age. I must assume it's a newer model. I'm not disputing what you said about it running all the time, but please read on. Oddly enough the new energy efficient referigators run 70 to 80% of the time. They use a smaller compressor without the big amperage start-up. The best I can describe them is that they freewheel alot. The 106......of your model number means it was built by Whirlpool. A very quite and energy efficent refrigerator. If your power bill is high get a meter from your power company, most have them. Just to double check the power consumption. Good luck Jeff

Posted on May 31, 2009

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: where is the ballast in a true commercial coke

It depends on the manufacturer of the specific unit you have, but most of the flouresant light ballasts are installed on the top of the unit either on the back of the top illuminated name panel, or on the actual top of the unit. I have seen some that had the ballasts installed at the rear of the unit and even down in the lower section where the compressor is located.

You'll need to look around as each manufacturer has different specs for their particular units and without the wiring diagram, it is difficult to provide an exact answer to your question. If you remove the cover plate to the bottom section or look on the back of the unit, you might find the wiring diagram that could include a schematic and a line drawing showing the placement of all major components. With a little effort on your part, you should be able to find it.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Poor cooling on frezer and almost no cooling on refrigirator

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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1 Answer

Why does everything freeze in my T-49 True refrigerator


The cooling coil is probably frozen up. Shut it off and leave the door open over night. Start it up in the morning and see if its more accurate. Down the road you may find you have issues like leaving the door open in high temperatures, maybe the coil is plugged with paper, ice, dust etc. and needs to be cleaned, or maybe it was improperly charged by the last service man that worked on it. The charge should have been weighed in with a scale by the ounce. Good luck and hope this helps.

Jun 20, 2014 | True T-49 Side by Side Refrigerator...

1 Answer

The fan is working. The fridge, freezer & coils are not iced up. There is good room for air circulation. I vacuumed most of the dust from the coils, etc. The compressor is just slightly warm to the...


Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

I hope this solution will be helpful...

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Oct 23, 2011 | Frigidaire PLHT217TA Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Hi, I have an Admiral Refrigerator Model Number RSCA207AAM. I think it was purchased over 12 years ago. The refrigerator part is not cooling enough. Can you tell me how old this refrigerator is? Is...


Good day!!!!

A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

I hope this information will be helpful...Thank you for consulting fixya..

Aug 31, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Stopped cooling. called repairman who blew dust and dog hair out from underneath fridge. started cooling right away. 4 days later stopped cooling again. we did more vacuuming underneath because there...


a normal vacuum won't get out most of the debris ,, if you can get your hands on a compressor,, use air to blast the coils out,, then it gets blown out correctly

Jul 15, 2011 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Fridge running warmer than it should, Cooling fan on back doesn't turn, the compressor/condensor running very hot , and no new ice being made. Cleaned the cooling grid which was full of dust.


Here is the basic idea on how to keep the refrigerator, air conditioner, or vacuum cleaner to work properly. Air is moved by an electric fan or blower in order for that product to work properly. If air movement is blocked the fridge won't get cold, the central air conditioner won't cool enough, the vacume cleaner won't clean as well. Check on your fridge's air movement by inspecting the bottom of the fridge for dust and cob webs. Remove the front bottom clip-on plastic grill. Or also even access the lower back of the fridge by removeing the screws holding up the heavy cardboard cover to see inside. Blockage of air flow will prevent a fridge from getting cold. Just like a vacuum cleaner stops working when the bag is filled with dust and fibers. The air could be blocked by the accumulation of dust and fibers. Look under your fridge if it is cloged, it will look just like the stuff on a dirty central air filter.

Dust and fiber buildup blocking the fridge's air movement from back to front (or visa-versa) of your fridge will slowly (years) prevent how good it cools. The build-up of dust and cobwebs prevents your fridge from cooling (more specifically prevents the heat to disapate from the metal heat disipating fins attached to the metal tubes to be blown off by the fans air). OK! Remedy for a vacuum cleaner REPLACE THE CLOGED VACUUM BAG.

Remedy for your fridge manually REMOVE THE CLOGING DUST AND FIBERS FROM UNDER YOUR FRIDGE. SORRY fridge manufacturers do not provide a dust filter like the vacume cleaner and central air systems manufacturers do. You have to figger out the best way you can clean it. Possibly vacuum with a crevice tool, or use a small brush than vacuum. The extreme would be unplug the fridge ( so you won't get electrocuted) bring a water hose into the kitchen and spray water at cobweb buildup at the bottom fridge, than wet vac the floor then wait 20 minutes to dry before pluging the fridge back into the electric outlet.
When you stand in front of your fridge and you hear the fridge electric motor turn on, the fan will blow air.The fridge

Apr 11, 2011 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

It is not holding temp. its range is 30 to 49 degrees in one hour


As a refrigerator, it should not go below about 34 degrees. If it is going down to 30, it may be freezing up on the coil. If you get a chance, do this: unplug the refrigerator and let it sit for 4 hours with the door open. If the coil is frozen it will defrost. You can feel the coils inside the box at the top back inside the unit. If you feel ice at any time it is an indication that it is getting too cold. Once the inside coils freeze over, the air can't flow through the coils and the unit will get warmer and warmer. When it is defrosted, set the thermostat just above the off setting. Let it run until the compressor shuts off. See what the temperature reads on a thermometer inside the cooler. If it is not cool enough move the thermostat one number colder and let it run an hour. Take your time, let it equalize before you change the thermostat. Also if the cooler is empty it is hard to set the thermostat because when you open the door all the cold air escapes and the temp will change rapidly. If it is full of cold food, opening the door won't change the temperature very quickly. Also check the radiator coils at the bottom of the cooler behind the grill. If it is clogged with dust or grease, the compressor may overheat and shut off prematurely.

Sep 21, 2010 | True T-49 Side by Side Refrigerator...

1 Answer

Refrig/bottom freezer not cooling, fan running, lights running, controls working fine, every 5 minutes a humming, then a clicking....cleaned condensor fans and cleaned condensor coils by vacuuming My...


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As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Aug 30, 2010 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

1 Answer

I have a GDM-26 and it has stop cooling, I cleaned out the coil and both fan are working. Could this be the thermostat?


Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Aug 30, 2010 | True GDM-26 Refrigerator

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