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Gas dryer won't ignite. ignitor pulls 3.8amps. thermal fuse has continuity. flame sensor is working. jumped sensor no resultbesides checking outgas valve coil for ohms what other possibilities could cause non ignitiion. thank you for your help P.S. thermostat is closed

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Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

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1 Answer

Gas dryer checked ignitor, thermal fuse and flame all had continuity still ignitor will not glow or heat


Will try to help you checked the igniter you say good if good does it glow if so clamp on one wire and take an amp draw while heating I like to see a minimum of 3 amps if glowing and 3 and above change the coils on the gas valve very cheap, now if not glowing and good ignitor the fun begins power comes out of the heat relay on the control board passes thru the thermal fuse then thermal cut off then hi limit then the flame sensor while also feeding the gas coils the neutral is supplied thru the centrifugal switch on the tumbler motor if the dryer stays running the centrifugal switch is good and you have a neutral bad flame sensor very rare since I am not there check the thermal cut off once blown it does not reset has to be replaced if all the fused I mentioned check good then check the heat relay on the board black and red wire stick meter ends in both off should read 120 volt when machine turned on should hear it click and meter should read 0 volts the boards seldom go bad but I have replaced a few in 5 years I am leaning more towards an open thermal cutoff

Feb 20, 2015 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Why does my gas dryer not ignite to create a flame?


check the thermal fuse and cycling switch on the blower housing,if they both have continuity then check the high limit thermostat for continuity on the burner tube housing and then the flame sensor eye on this tube also and also wipe off its window that faces the ignitor so it can see the flame after ignition,if all this checks good then check the ignitor inside the burner tube as these can burn out

Aug 22, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer is not working its just blows cold air only no flame what can i do to fix it?


If the ignitor is glowing but no flame check the coils, flame sensor for continuity, and make sure gas is on. If the ignitor is not glowing check the thermal fuse for continuity and check to make sure the ignitor is not bad by making sure that it has 120 volts when dryer is running

Jul 14, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer fails to heat up. I tried replacing the glow bar with no success.


Hi

If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it's blown, then it needs to be replaced.
Now, check the igniter, there is a plastic connector attaching the igniter to the burner. Disconnect this and place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance. If the reading is above 100 ohms then igniter is bad. If the igniter passes the test then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor. You should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible. Hope this helps...
Daniel

Sep 04, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I replaced the igniter and thermal fuse and dryer


The thermal fuse should only be replaced if the dryer will not start
If it starts the thermal fuse is good.
If you touched the ignitor with your fingers it may have blown out.
Open the dryer and check for voltage to the ignitor through the ignitor wires while the dryer is on.
If you have no voltage check the hi-limit thermostat for continuity as well as the operating thermostat.
Check the flame sensor for continuity while it is cold.
If you have power to the ignitor place a clamp on amp meter on one ignitor wire and turn the dryer on.
If you read 3 amps or less the ignitor is bad.
If it reads the amps or more the gas valve coils are bad.

Jan 17, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

No heat on any setting


If the dryer isn't heating, check for a blown thermal fuse or a faulty heating element. Both components can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty component. Both components are located in the rear of the dryer. The thermal fuse is about an inch long and is usually attached to or near the exhaust duct. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

Sep 16, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

IGNITOR GLOWS BUT THERES NO FLAME


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Aug 04, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

No Heat


Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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