Question about Kenmore 95002 / 95004 Electric Kitchen Range

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The large rear burner stopped heating. How and can I get to the heating element to change it

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The following link explains step-by-step how to replace a surface burner on an electric range:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3692628-surface_burner_replacement_electric

If you have not purchased a replacement burner, yet, they can be found at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also include exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly indentifying any parts you may need.

If you have any questions about this repair, or about part numbers, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

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1 Answer

My oven keeps cutting out (fan stops and heating) but it isn't at the temperature selected on the control knob. Sometimes it goes up to temp, sometimes it stops a LOT lower.


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Apr 30, 2015 | Belling Ovens

1 Answer

Large burner not working


It is possible the burner itself is bad. Most tops have a couple screws under the glass panel the will allow you to open up the top and install a new burner element. these elements are very fragile so be careful installing a new burner element. The other possibility is a burned wire or a bad switch.

Oct 04, 2014 | Kitchen Ranges

3 Answers

Frigidaire stove front large/small burner combination. Large burner works but the small burner in the centre of the large burner does not come on at all with any heat. ??


This is a inner/outer burner type assembly? Sounds like a glass top.
Either way, your switch for that burner or the burner needs to be replaced.
If you are able and it is possible, inter change switches to see if it makes a difference. Interchange Large with large, small with small.
If yous switches are connected as one unit, you will not be able to do this. Sorry, I have not looked up your wiring diagram.

Oct 23, 2013 | Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric...

1 Answer

One burner on Kera205pbt won't heat


Just to be clear, the burner does not heat at all? Is this the small or large burner? Swap the burner with another one to see if it is the burner itself or the infinite switch. Post back your results.

Feb 08, 2013 | KitchenAid KERA205P Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Burner works on high (9), loses heat at medium (5)


The control is bad. I assume the burner worked on the other side?
eric

Jul 03, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My jenn-air JEC9530 is red light blinking.


you will need a new heating element in and if that dosent work you need a new one

May 30, 2009 | Jenn-Air JEC9530 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Large electric burners not working on lowest "LO" setting


Unplug the range and remove the problem elements.
With a flashlight, look inside the element receptacle for burned or disfigured terminals.
If they are damaged they can be replaced.
If the element terminals are OK you have defective switches.

Mar 18, 2009 | Whirlpool RF368LXKS Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Kenmore Range 911.9324890


Replace recepticles for large elements. It is the part that the heating elements go into. And while you are at the appliance store, pickup a new bake element for your oven. Just unscrew element from oven wall and install new one.

Nov 16, 2007 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

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