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Hi, I plan to tweak the crossover for Tannoy Stirling SE speakers but cannot find the schematic anywhere. I know that it can be traced & drawn up by opening the speaker. Just want to check & study the schematic before starting anything. Can you pls help? Thanks & regards P.Y. Chan

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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STP162
  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: how to wire in a cross over

You didn't say if it was active or passive, but here is both:

Passive crossovers are easy to install. By definition, the only type of connections they require are to your speaker line. They typically get installed between the end of the speaker wire and the speaker. Connection should be fairly simple, just like hooking up the speaker itself.

Now F-Mod crossovers modify the audio signal before it is amplified. They accept the patch cord from your receiver on one end, and then plug directly into the preamp inputs on your amplifier. They are also easy to install, and don't require additional wiring.

 An active crossover requires a little more work. You have to connect 12-volt power, ground, and a turn-on lead. The active crossover gets installed between your receiver and your amplifier. A lot of active crossovers have both speaker-level and preamp inputs, so they can usually work with either type of connection. The outputs will be preamp connections to your amplifier. Hope that helps.

Posted on Oct 22, 2007

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SOURCE: bypassing the 150 watt blown amp with passive crossover

3/4 update: i bypassed the 300w amp on my first ovtr3 with a cs3006 crossover i purchased on ebay. the input wires at the base of the speaker were connected to the input of the crossover, the bass output of the new crossover was connected to the yellow/yellow-black lf+/lf- wires that used to leave the old 300w amp. the high freq output of the new crossover was directly connected to the leads coming from the speaker's tweeter (running the midfreq outputs from the new crossover to the input of the speaker's old crossover is no good, since the midfreq output of the new crossover would rolloff and provide little high freq to the tweeter). The mid-freq output from the crossover was connected to the input of the old crossover that came with the speaker (alternatively, i could have wired the mid freq output from the new crossover directly to the midrange speakers, but i figured the old crossover might have had some characteristics that would have been helpful. the result is better than i hoped for! true, the bass is not quite as floor shaking as before (and you need an amp that can boost +5-+10db below 350Hz and rolloff the boost above 350Hz), but the end result is more than satisfying and gives these speakers new life. I am using a Sony receiver that puts out around 200W for the front speakers.

Posted on Mar 04, 2008

SOURCE: no zone 2 sound coming from yamaha amp rx-v861

Had same problem. A and B speakers are basically connected together, and there is no way to get the same volume out of each speaker. This is not a multi-source receiver like Onkyo. Zone 2 needs to go to a seperate amplifier and select teh correct source on the fornt,

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: no zone 2 sound coming from yamaha amp rx-v861

Try this:

FIX ZONE @ SOUND - STUCK ON "ZONE 2 - FIX" 1. Press "Amp" button (right side of remote - 1/3 way down) 2. Press "Menu" button (center of remote - 1/2 way down) 3. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "Manual Setup" is displayed on receiver 4. Press "Enter" button (green letters) 5. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "3 Option Menu" is displayed on receiver 6. Press "Enter" button (green letters) 7. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "D Multi Zone" is displayed on receiver 8. Navigate from there Hope it helps. It worked for us.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

Xtremeroofin
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Speaker set up problem

They hook to the rear surround.

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

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1 Answer

Getting very low volumn only and lots of crackling if turned up


As long as it is only the speaker that is playing up and not the amp. Then more that likely it will be something on the crossover circuit that is the problem. If you look at that and see semi-conductors (transistors, IC, etc) on it. Then one or more of them could be the problem.

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I assume you have more than one of these speakers. If so simply remove the tweeters from the two speakers and swap them around. If the other speaker acts up then, you know the tweeter is faulty. However if it stays on the same speaker it's the crossover that's the problem.

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What you need to do is connect a 1.5 volt battery to the speaker(s) terminals for a split second. Put your ear to the tweeter at the same time (you might someone to help you do this). If the tweeter "pops" it works, if not you might have blown them. The best way would (to be certain) is to remove the tweeter from the crossover inside the unit.
Tweeters are the first thing to go when the speaker has been connected to an amp that is wrong for them or they have been run at high volume.

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Determine if the noise is only from one driver. If it is gently press all over with your fingers on the cone, so it moves up and down. If it makes the noise then then the cone is catching inside the housing. You will need a new unit if that is the case.
Before you do any of the above swap the speaker with another so you know it's not the amp causing the noise.
If the whole speaker makes the noise and it's not the amp, then it will be a fault on the crossover inside the speaker.

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It could be the driver or it might be the crossover, if you are happy take the driver out and check it with the amp on LOW volume. If it is blown it should be possible to get it re-coned or repaired. If the driver is ok then next step is to check the crossover.

The crossover divides the full range signal to hi and low, it will be made up of colis and capacitors with some soldered joints, there may be a faults with this. If it is a loose connection / dry joint it is easy to fix.

At all steps write down what you are doing, as this will save time and money at the repair shop.

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