Question about Jenn-Air JMC7000 Microwave Oven

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JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker

I have a Jenn-Air JMC7000ADW Microwave / Oven in wall combo that is 8 years old, Blows circuit breaker when you push the open button at times, have replaced Diode, still blows breaker (at times)

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  • wally1947 May 09, 2008

    Yes, I have to keep replacing fuse in unit

  • JHughis Apr 03, 2009

    the first time the primary switch welded shut in the NO position so I relpaced all 4 switches and while I had it open I also replaced Capacitor, Rectifier, put it back together worked great for a week or so it blew the fuse again after that week I opened it back up and the same switch welded shut in the NO position again I wrote it off as a defective switch so I replaced it again worked great again for about a week.. the switch did it again welded in the NO position (that makes 3 times) the magnatron was replaced about 1 yr ago what else can it be. if you tell me the transformer please tell me there is a after market transformer I dont want to buy it from sears they want to much for it. if its not the transformer than please tell me what else to look for I do see in tracing the wires back that they do at some point lead back to the transformer

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I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • k9yjy Nov 16, 2008

    For JHughis. The switch that k9yjy changed was the Upper Primary switch. I bought it at my local appliance shop for less than three dollars. It is a bit difficlt to get out, but patience and you will succeed. There are a couple of screws holding in the switch bracket and two wires attach to the switch that can be carefully pulled off the swithch with a pair of small needle pliers. Unfortunately one of the the push on connectors on my microwave had overheated and had to be replaced. The appliance shop didn't have a connector, but I found a suitable substitute at my local auto parts house. The switch has two holes in it and it fits over a plastic nub sticking out of the plastic bracket.



    There are some plastic cams attached to the door that activate the switches so be sure to watch how they are mounted and get them back in the right place when the switch bracket is removed to access the switch. After replacing the switch open and close the door a few times to be sure the cams are actuating the switches properly. If you have a digital camera you may wish to take a close up photo of how the switches and cams are mounted. For those with intermittent blowing of fuses when the door is opened you may wish to change this switch first since I found my switch stuck closed once in a while as noted in my original solution and that would blow the fuse.



    For safety - be sure to turn off power to the microwave and unplug it from the power source. Because components for the high voltge could possibly retain voltage be careful when working around the power supply components inside the microwave.

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Do you know which switch it would be Primary or secondary?

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • JHughis Apr 03, 2009

    the first time the primary switch welded shut in the NO position so I relpaced all 4 switches and while I had it open I also replaced Capacitor, Rectifier, put it back together worked great for a week or so it blew the fuse again after that week I opened it back up and the same switch welded shut in the NO position again I wrote it off as a defective switch so I replaced it again worked great again for about a week.. the switch did it again welded in the NO position (that makes 3 times) the magnatron was replaced about 1 yr ago what else can it be. if you tell me the transformer please tell me there is a after market transformer I dont want to buy it from sears they want to much for it. if its not the transformer than please tell me what else to look for I do see in tracing the wires back that they do at some point lead back to the transformer

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Only fuze are replaced

Posted on May 09, 2008

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