Question about KitchenAid Refrigerators

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Kitchen Aid refrigerator, model KBFA25ERWH01 – French Door / Bottom Freezer. Not cooling both frig & free. Unplugged to the compressor cool down. Unplugged and removed the capacitor and relay (DID NOT REPLACE), cleaned the dust off the condenser. Plugged back in and unit cooled to temp, zero freezer & 32 degrees frig. This morning the compressor started having trouble switching on and the temp began to increase again. Can capacitor and relay start and stop working? I thought when they go down they are DOA… is this a bigger issue then replacing capacitor and relay?? And yes, can hear the compressor trying to turn over, click and hum every 2 minutes.... Thank you…

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If the refrigerator try's to start and then shuts down, something is going the burn up. If it doesn't run, call a repair service.

Posted on Apr 03, 2017


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Amana French Door Refrigerator "on" but no cooling; freezer still works

There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.

Posted on Mar 11, 2007

SOURCE: Refrigerator stops cooling, but if I adjust the temp it restarts

temp control wire dodgy turn off take plug out of socket trace wire repair it switch back on i had one temp mate it was wire

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Hear relay clicking on and off, refrigerator is

I would suggest repairing the unit . For less than $ 75.00 , compared to the cost of a new refrig . The problem is the overload/relay , which is plugged onto the side of the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it . This is easily replaceable . If you had given the model number , I could have given you a part number . Be sure to take it ( model number ) with you , when getting the part , so you get the correct part .

Posted on Nov 22, 2009

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Both sides not cooling.


Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold


Posted on Oct 28, 2010

  • 4070 Answers

SOURCE: I found the refrigerator not cooling. I unplugged

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Dec 26, 2010

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