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We lost water pressure, overnight. Our well's jet pump keeps running. No pressure builds up in tank (< 15 PSI). The switch for the pump DOES NOT shut the pump off like it has in the past (very odd). The switch is hot to the touch. The circuit breaker to the pump DOES shut the pump off. Please, help. Thank you, in advance, for your suggestions.

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Check the voltage to the well pump if it is correct then you know you have correct power to it if you don't them the pump control has a issue and will need to be services as to other possible issues take the pipe off the top of the well head and run the pump if you get a good flow out of the pipe then chances are your pump is ok attach a shut off valve to the pipe and slowly close but not all the way see it it builds pressure if this is ok check the pressure tank if you have one. these have a bladder inside that allows the water to be at a constant pressure it will be a small tank depending on your set up you have.
on the top of it their should be a small valve like a tire valve stem use a tire Gage and check the pressure if their is none look on the tank it will state what it should be.
add air to the setting stated. if pressure will not build or water comes out then the batter is bad inside and will need replacement some you can do just the bladder others you have to replace the unit what this unit does is when you use the water the tank supplies the house pressure till is get to a point then the pump will start and charge the system.
if it is bad the pump will keep running trying to maintain the pressure and over heats witch will heat the breaker the breaker should not be hot a slight warm to the touch only. and can total the pump.
if when you apply power to the pump if no water or the pressure don't build with the valve then you will need to pull the pump and have it serviced at same time have the well checked to see if it collapsed or water table dropped then it may have to be drilled deeper. all ways be careful playing with power and water take the right safety precautions. when disconnecting the pipe to test for flow don't do it right at the top of the well head you can drop the pump then your in a world of hurt do it down the line some like toads or at the pressure vessel not after that you want to isolate the issues with each unit it will be less hassle and nor as expensive . these are the exact steps a well driller would to to check but charge you a ton.
i hope this helps

Posted on Aug 31, 2010


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With only one adjustment *****, can't figure out how to adjust cut-in and cut-out levels.

There is only one adjustment screw because it has a fixed differential. A 20 lb differential is standard. I recommend a 40-60 pressure setting which gives you an average water press of 500 psi. With a 40 cut-in, your tank pressure should be set at 38 psi. There is a schrader valve at the top of the tank. Use a tire gauge to set it at 38 psi. Do that first. Now set your press switch by running water and observing at what pressure the pump kicks in at. Don't worry about the cut-out pressure. It's trial and error.
Let the pressure build up above 45 psi and then run water until you hear the pump kick on. Keep doing this until the pump kicks on at 40 psi. It may take a few tries, so I recommend having someone else turning the water on and off for you.

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You could have two problems. The first and most likely is that the pressure tank does not have a high enough pre-charge or the diaphragm has a leak. The pressure tank acts like a shock absorber for the well pump and pressure switch. When the water pressure drops the switch turns the well pump on. The pump runs until the pressure switch stops the pump. As the water pressure builds it pushes up on the diaphragm inside the pressure tank. If the pre-charge pressure is too low the system cycles less but the pressure fluctuates more. To fix this, the tank will have a valve on top that looks like a tire air valve. The tank pre-charge should be 30-35 psi. If your pressure switch is working properly, when the pump builds up the pressure about 15-20 psi more, the switch shuts the pump off. The pre-charge above the diaphragm pushes down and forces the water out to the tap.
If the pressure switch is set incorrectly the fluctuation may produce similar results. The pressure switch should be set to deliver adequate pressure and according to the well pumps working limits. Depending on the how far up the water has to be elevated to reach the highest shower head the more pressure is needed. The pressure switch has electrical contacts that could be burned and not releasing to stop the pump correctly. This should be checked by qualified service technician. Electricity and water don't play well together, add in a little carless good intent and you could have worse problems.
Get out the pressure gage and check the pre-charge, add air with a bike pump or a regulated compressor. If water spurts out of the air valve, the diaphragm has a leak. If the pressure is not the problem, call for service. This video has all the info you may need.
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The water pressure is adjusted with the pressure switch, which turns the pump on and off. The pressure switch is typically set for a cut-in and cut-out pressure of 20-40 psi, or 30-50 psi. Usually there are adjustment directions on the inside of the switch cover. But, there are several other factors that may affect the house pressure. If there is a pressure tank that is pre-charged, the tank pressure may need to be reset, or the tank bladder may be ruptured. Have the entire system checked out.

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My jet pump has a 20 - 40 pressure switch but won't give any more than 30 psi. Whats wrong?

There are several causes for this to occur.
1. If it is a 20-40 switch right out of the box it may not be set correctly. I have had this happen. If it builds to 30psi and shuts right off without straining to build to 40psi adjust the Cut-Out pressure up to 40psi. There are two different adjustments on a well switch. One for Cut In / Cut Out psi and one for Cut Out psi.
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