Question about LG LS-L1210CL Mini Split Air Conditioner

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I changed a light fixture in the washroom and It seems that there was a line in the connection box that also serves the wall air conditioner in the bedroom. After checking all the lamo connections again and all the jumpers in the electrical panel the air conditioner seems to bet out of power. I wonder if there is a internal fuse in the unit or in the fan outside. This is an LG Neo Plasma with remote control.

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Hello Check the wite connections again with a flashlight and see if a wire end broke or is loose.Check the curcit breaker panel box to see if they are all on.How did you turn off power to work on the lamp?The problem is there ,some units require 220volts power.The unit will use the breaker for protection,Did something short out(sparks) at the fixture?

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

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1 Answer

I try to change the ceiling light and there is only two wires that come out


Hello Dana Ryan,

Not sure why you are finding that a problem...?

Always turn off the breakers...

If you are looking at aluminum wires (in the wall)...
IMMEDIATELY STOP & CALL an ELECTRICIAN.

I am terribly concerned that giving a little information here could cause FIRE & *****.

Just guessing here... but I'm going to stab at two possible areas of interest.

New fixtures come with a ground (either bare copper or green... for the moment... we can ignore that wire... (TEMPORARILY).

You should also be looking at two wires:
a black (or possibly red) wire and
a white wire... from the house...

and

Whites & blacks from the light?

IF you are looking at something more than that... you should IMMEDIATELY STOP & comment me back... or hire a PROFESSIONAL

To install a multi-bulb fixture where one was you MUST gather all your white wires together as one NEUTRAL; All black wires TOGETHER as HOT...and couple EACH together with the single RESPECTIVE black or white feeder wires (ideally twisted together in a firm bunch and fitted into a correctly coded wire nut (or a variety of other legal connections)).

"Parallel" connections (looking very similar (one black, one white).

If you are not entirely CONFIDENT in what you are doing... and reading the directions on the WIRE NUT CONTAINER...
is NOT giving you greater confidence... It would be EXTREMELY UNWISE to attempt this installation yourself.

Loose & improper connections are the stuff DEADLY FIRES are made of...!!

~~

If however... you READ, understand & heed the instructions on the wire-nut ... box, bag, container... and it does begin to make sense... I'd dearly love to help folks make safe, strong connections... ALL DAY LONG.

Here in the USA (the principles are PRETTY MUCH the same everywhere)...

the National Electrical Code tries to have a ground circuit at every connection box (usually bare copper or GREEN)... Before about the 50 years ago... it was not necessary to bring that ground out of the box... unless three prong outlet plugs were installed... then the
"passive" ground supplied by the switch/outlet was no longer considered sufficient.

We Typically have only two wire for the final connection to a light fixture... with the ground buried in the connection box...

If you do not have one... the box is DANGEROUS and does not meet current codes of the last 50 years (at least)...

Hire a professional to install Ground-Fault GFI breakers for you!!

house light schematic Bing images

Apr 16, 2016 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Basic house wiring diagrams


Most likely you can't unless there is a neutral wire in the box too. The wires going to the switch cannot be connected directly to an outlet because there is not a complete circuit for an outlet.

Dec 30, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Leviton Trimatron push on/off dimmer 705


Dimmer: the green wire is for bonding (grounding or earthing) the metal face frame. Do not connect it to the black or red wires. There should be a bare or green wire coming into the box, or the box (if metal) should be grounded through a wire or metal conduit. If the box is metal and you find a bare wire connected to the box, disconnect that wire and replace it with a 6" + (i. e., long enough to extend 6" out of the box) bare wire pigtail. Connect the 6" wire and the green wire to the original bonding wire using a wire nut. The two black wires are electrically interchangeable; they connect the hot wire to the light fixture (in place of a switch).
Existing house wiring: this is a head scratcher. In US residential wiring, one might see a 3/1 non-metallic cable with a black, red and white wire plus a bare wire for bonding coming from a light fixture. This would be used in one of two ways. In one, the black would be hot, the red would be the switched wire to the light fixture, and the white would provide a neutral connection for lighting control devices that need it. In the other (possibly more applicable to your situation), the white would be marked with black tape and would serve either as the incoming hot or as the switched wire to the lighting fixture (the black would have the other function), and the red would serve as a second switched wire for a fan or other load. The wise thing to do would be to remove the lighting fixture and have a look at the other end of the cable - take special note of the connections going to the fixture(s). You are looking for the hot connection coming in to the fixture box and the switched wire going to the fixture. But two black wires? How is it possible to tell which one is which without turning on power? Is there a difference in insulation marking? Or are the connected together?
Another common configuration (and I think this is what you have) is to bring hot and neutral into the box from the branch wiring, then send the switched connection(s) out of the box, and tie the neutrals (white wires) together with a wire nut. (Look for the neutral connection inside the box; if you find one, the job is relatively simple) In this case, one of the black wires is the incoming hot (comes from the cable without the red wire but with the incoming neutral), the other black wire and the red wire go to the fixture in the other cable along with the outgoing white neutral wire. You still need to look at the fixture to find out whether it gets the black wire or the red wire. It is possible that one of the wires (most likely red) is a spare for possible use in a fan/light combination.
Once you have identified which wire is the incoming hot and the switched wire going to the fixture, connect one of the black wires on the dimmer to the hot and the other black wire from the dimmer to the switched wire. What you do with remaining wire depends on what is done with it at the fixture box. If it is an unconnected spare, tape over the end (if stripped) and push it back into the box so it doesn't accidentally poke into a wire not and become energized. If it is connected in parallel with one of the other wires (unlikely), do the same at the dimmer box end. If it is connected to another load (probably a fan), consider replacing the dimmer box with a double gang box and adding a separate switch for the fan (do not run the fan on the dimmer!).
If you have any doubt about what you find, you should hand this job over to a professional electrician. There are a couple of ways to get into trouble with this, especially if the person who originally wired the fixture didn't follow the electrical code. The worst case is you connect the two switched wires to the dimmer and leave the hot wire open and exposed inside the box, and it comes into contact with a metal part in the box. This is potentially dangerous and destructive.

Jun 22, 2013 | Cycling

1 Answer

How to wire this fan


The wiring on most paddle / ceiling fans id such:

White = Fan and Light neutral or "common"
Black = Fan line voltage or "hot"
Blue = Light line voltage or "hot"
Green = safety ground

If you are replacing an existing light fixture - be sure to replace the ceiling box with one designed for use with a fan - as per electrical code. If the existing box had only 2 wires (or 3 counting the ground) that connected to the old light fixture and it was controlled from a wall switch, the wiring would be fixture white to ceiling white, fixture black and fixture blue to ceiling black (or red) and fixture green to ceiling bare ground or connected to the metal box. This would power both the fan and light whenever the wall switch was on and the pull chains for each were also on. This is also the preferred wiring for replacement of a pull chain type light fixture (no wall switch present).

If there are other wires in the box that previously were not connected to the old light fixture, using a meter or tester - determine if there is constant power between the ceiling white wire and any of the these other wires (test with the wall switch on and off to be sure). If you do have constant power available, you might consider using the wall switch to control only the light, and using the pull chain to operate the fan (or vice-versa). Simply connect the black (for fan) or the blue (for light) to the "constant power on" wire and that part of the fixture will work by pull chain only - regardless of the wall switch position. If the fan can be shut off by the wall switch, it is very important that the wall switch remain a toggle (or on / off switch), do NOT replace with a dimmer type switch.

If you'd prefer to operate the fan and light completely independently of each other - you can purchase a 3rd party fan & light remote control device for between $30 - $50.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thanks!

Apr 22, 2011 | Aloha Housewares (93645) Ceiling Fan

1 Answer

I bought a house that has some older fixtures and all of the toliets (3) are the American Standard 13.2 / 3.5 GPF models. The one toilet in the main washroom flushes odd, in that when it flushes often a...


You probably have excessive buildup on the pipe walls that have restricted the flow to the point of needing that second flush - or somebody flushed a plastic bag there and now it is acting like a flapper. This will also be evidenced by occasional flooding at that commode. There's only 2 solutions as I se4e it.; scrape the pipe walls ( rooter with a scraping head ) or replace the pipe for the build up, or rooter out the pipe to try to extract that blasted bag.
Good luck!!

Nov 20, 2010 | American Standard Home

1 Answer

How do a wire a second emergency shut off switch to my furnace


Try wiring a "Three-Way" switch as follows

wiring1l.gif

Option 1. Fixture Controlled by Two Switches: Power Through a Switch Box
Two three-way switches control one light with the electric power coming through the first switch, flowing to the second switch, and then to the light fixture. The ground wire goes through both switch boxes and the ceiling light box and it is connected at all junctions, except the light, with a pigtail (short piece of wire) and wire connector. The hot wire in the drawing is black and is connected to the COM terminal. The neutral wire is white. Track each with a finger to its conclusion at the light fixture to ensure proper connection.

Nov 16, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a new chandelier with 9 12 volt halogen bulbs. I want to install an electronic dimmer switch for it. When purchasing the dimmer switch there are 4 wires included: ground, black, white and neutral....


First you must have a neutral wire in the switch box for this dimmer to work. A neutral wire (white) is a current carrying conductor. A ground wire is an equipment ground and does not normally carry current. You should never connect a device that requires a neutral to a grounding conductor.
The neutral wouldn't have to come from the light fixture as long as it's on the same circuit. Another note is to check your light fixture, and be sure dimming is ok. Another choice you could have is to install a remote dimming device. You would mount this in the fixture canopy, and then use a remote dimmer.

Aug 03, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I want to install a light in my garage i have a live source but how do i connect it to the light and wall switch


My first response would be to seek help from an electrician or someone qualified to perform this work.
If you are going to attempt it, you will need the following items:
- electrical box
- light switch
- light fixture
- wire ( ask you local hardware store clerk what is recommended or needed to meet code in your area.

Disconnect power at breaker to your source.
From your source,
- connect wires to electrical box. then to;
- connect wires to switch then to;
- connect wires to another box at the fixture
- connect fixture to the box.

box=====switch=====box=fixture.


Apr 27, 2010 | Westinghouse Electric Ceiling Fan 3-way...

1 Answer

Cannot turn off a pull-chain fixture


It sounds like you have accidentally by-passed the switch. The switch only needs one power leg to the pull-chain switch and the other 3 wires go on the other wire of the switch. The white wires get connected together as you have done.

Please turn off the power before you make a change.

Sep 19, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

I have an outside spot light with a motion detector controlled by an inside switch. I want to change outside fixture & install dimmer switch in place of wall switch. I removed outside fixture. There...


First, let me say that if you're not entirely comfortable doing high voltage electrical work, you might want to call an electrician. It's not impossible for you to get hurt or killed or burn down your house. At least be sure to turn of the circuit breaker while you're working on it.

The blacks and whites twisted together are passing through power to other parts of your premises and are always on, so be sure to keep them twisted together. The red is the one that will take power from your light switch and send it to your light fixture.

At the fixture, connect the white to white and red to black, the same as before. At the light switch, connect the black to one side of the switch and the red to the other. When you turn on the switch, it will permit power from the black to travel down the red to the fixture, and from the fixture, the circuit will be completed through the white.

Good luck!

Sep 12, 2009 | Leviton (102-5G108-RW5)

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