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Will a timber bandsaw cut thin plastic or will i need a plastic cutting blade on my clarke bandsaw. The teeth are very fine on the timber saw thats in now thanks

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Hi, yes it will cut plastic, but if its a brittle plastic you will need to guard against splitting. To guard against this you can brace the plastic with a thin sheet of plywood underneath whilst cutting.

Posted on Aug 31, 2010

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Can anyone tell me if there is a replace blade for clarke bandsaw model tb1015a


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It sounds like the chain does want sharpening, it depends on what you are cutting ( type of timber, dirty timber,burnt timber etc ) as to how long before it needs sharpening, if the chain comes into contact with the ground below the tree it will lose its edge instantly.

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Delta 28-185 bandsaw cuts crooked after 4" of straight cut adjustments have been made as per manual


Sounds like your blade is getting hot, causing it to expand, causing it to be too loose. The blade gets hot when it's teeth are rubbing or scraping the material more than they are cutting. . You might see some improvement by increasing the blade tension and feeding the material a bit more aggressively. . But you will see greater improvement by using a blade with fewer teeth. For a given blade, the thicker the material is, the more teeth there are engaged in cutting at the same time, so each tooth gets a smaller share of your feeding force. . The optimum number of teeth that should be engaged in the cut at a time varies by the material, the style, quality and condition of the blade, and the rigidity of the saw---- but you can use 3 to 10 as a rough guide. . Good luck, and thanks for using FixYa. Al Kupchella

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Use a 10" blade. As for the number of teeth...the more teeth the finer the cut will be. The only drawback is a a finer toothed blade will cut slow. For your purposes I'd suggest a fine toothed blade.

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I just purchased the ryobi 9 inch bandsaw, used it once or twice and have noticed that the teeth on the blade are crooked. is that a typical problem, is it a problem at all?


If you mean that the teeth alternate sides in which they point, this is normal. This aids in the blade clearing cut material from the path of the blade making sure it does not clog. Almost all saws for wood have this tooth pattern. If you have doubts look at a new replacement blade for the saw.

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MBS 240/E proxxon bandsaw


the 24 TPI is the one to use. It sounds as if the blade is running to fast and over heating the blade and causing it to lose the temper in the balde steel. Try slowing the blade speed down if you can. Also you can try putting some cutting oil on the balde to stop it from clogging up. You can also rig up a small air line to blow on the cutting area to cool it down and remove the metal chips. I've also applied some wax to the blade every so often. A candle will work for this too. Hope this helps you, Jeepfxr

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My blade cut one 12mm round bar and broke tried anothertoo two blades they broke


Ok, I am gonna give you the secret. When they make band saw blades for metalwork,(assuming the blade is spec'd right for the application, the cutting teeth are not completely hardened for heavy use. Simply put, you have to break the blade in. This can be done in one of two ways. You can either reduce the speed of the band OR you can use half of the infeed force into the work piece. In other words, half speed or half feed for about 20-30 mins of cutting time and the teeth actually harden the rest of the way. This is not an accident. As a rep for a bandsaw company, this was the abolute #1 problem I got complaints about in the field. Of course, if you don't know the secret, you have to buy more blades from them. Convenient,huh? Try it my way and lemme know how it turns out.

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cut freehand. A bandsaw blade will always run off to one side or the other, even using a fence.

The rip fence is intended for re-sawing only, and very thin strips

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