Question about Kenmore Oasis HE 27082 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore Oasis HE Canyon Quiet Pak4. Laundry is coming out wet, making a grinding noise when filling or draining. Not sure what it is?

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There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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"F21" (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump...



If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here's the information you need to check the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the Cabinet of the machine:

#
1

Disconnect your Kenmore Oasis washing machine from its power source. Make sure that your washer is unplugged before beginning to disassemble it.
#
2

Remove the screws that hold the control console to the top of your Oasis washer. In some Kenmore Oasis models, the two screws may be covered by plastic end caps. After removing the screws, set them aside until you are ready to replace them.
#
3

Flip the console up, back and out of the way.
4

Locate the cabinet clips on the top of your Kenmore Oasis washer. These clips are located toward the back of the washer top and would be hidden by the console if it were not currently flipped up.
#
5

Slide your screwdriver underneath the metal cabinet clips. Wiggle the screwdriver back and forth to gently pry the cabinet clips free.
#
6

Disconnect the group of colored wires that plug into the top of the washer from the control console. These wires control the lid switch on your Kenmore washing machine. To disconnect, grasp the white plastic clip and pull gently.
#
7

Remove the washing machine cabinet. Tilt the cabinet towards you, and then lift the entire cabinet up and off of its platform.


3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.


NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

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If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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I had the exact same problem last night.

Here is what I did and it fixed it with NO PARTS or SERVICE CALL.

First, I took the drain hose and Blew through it with my mouth... I got air bubbles to come up in the wash bason, this told me the drain pump and hoses were not "Clogged"..

Next I took a shop vac and a 5 gallon bucket and used the vac to **** on the drain hose to start a siphon into the bucket...worked like a champ... I had it drained in less than 3 mins....

I Took the back cover off and then the drain pump off and took the 4-5 screws out of the mounting bracket and took the pump cover off.

What i found when I did this was that there was a VERY SMALL FLAT ROCK stuck between the impellor and the pump casing.

WIth a small screw driver I flicked out the rock and the impellor was free again... HOWEVER, When you do this, the impellor will turn half way and stop... half way and stop, half way and stop...etc.........IT WILL NOT SPIN FREELY like a top. When the motor is still attached to the pump, the armiture in the motor still gives reisitance to the impellor...This I PRESUME this to be normal..

I ended up putting it ALL back together except the back cover to test it...I turned it to a wash cycle and let it run for a few mins. Then i hit stop twice to cancel that wash request. Then i started a second wash cycle and the drain pump kicked right on to drain the water left in the basin from the first test wash..... So far she's purring like a kitten..... Fingers Crossed of course...

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