Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer will run for a
It sound's like the motor might be going bad, the dryer motor may be drawing to much current during operation causing the fuse to blow, check the motor to see if it spin's with little or no resistance, also turn the drum by hand to make sure it spin's freely, or it could be a short in the wiring that's causing the fuse to blow, check the wiring for a frayed or damaged wire, or for a wire that may be making contact with the shell of the dryer.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
Dryer heats but will not dry clothes. Uncloged linted in screen and where the tube is. Did not fix the promblem. Could it be the heating element? And if so what is the cost to replace it?
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
I know it might be coming too late for you...but at least it may help others. I`ve just fixed the problem myself. First you didnt mention if the inside light turns on n off with the closing of door. Mine was burned so I replaced it to find that it was always on. so I figured it had to be the door switch. I called Sears n the part was more expensive there $52 cad but they had it in stock.So I unplugged the Dryer n turned the breaker off. ( as an amateur , one should b xtra careful...)unscrewed the 3 back screws, the few screws holding the pieces of metal under the top enamel cover, gently pulled up the control panel enough so I could reach the plastic connector that links the interior wires to the door switch n pulled the defective part out n gently inserted the new one in as I didnt take the whole front apart I did need a hanger wire to grab the wire from the top. Obviously u could take the front of the dryer off but I could easily see the wires n picked it up on the first try,the whole process took me 10 min max n it works. Oh yes! I did remove the very bottom front part ( 2 screws) only to find a manual in there it will tell u how to test the dryer n get a error code back ( in a nut shell u press more time less time more time less time within 5 seconds while the dryer is off (no lights) n in the manual it gives u the meaning of error code...Good luck to all!
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
leave door open and press the rubber botton inside, \ I just hooked up mine and it did same thing, i pushed botton light went out, so this told me the door wasnt closing correctly, you have to push hard on door first couple times. hope this helps you.
Posted on Feb 24, 2010
The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:
- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).
NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.
NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.
- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.
- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.
Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.
NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.
If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.
If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.
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Posted on Sep 23, 2010
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