Question about Kenmore 62062 Electric Dryer

Open Question

My elite 110.62062100 will not heat up. What should I check? Resistance across heating element?

Posted by on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: replacing the heating element Kenmore dryer 110 64892

nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

Ad
Oceti
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: dryer spins but no heat

Did you check the power coard where it connects to the dryer? Start at the source. Make sure that you have at least 110v on each line. The dryer will tumble on 110v but requires 220v to heat. If you have 220v then check the t-stat and thermal cut-out on the blower. Check all wires for loose or burnt terminals. If all that is good it may be a bad motor or timer/control. I'm happy that you have a meter.
Good luck.

Posted on Dec 17, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer Model Number 110.85872400

Before assuming you have a bad heating element, read through the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. More commonly the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The component acts as a fuse and must be replaced if bad. In addition, if the TCO is determined to be defective, it is recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Both these components work in conjunction with the heating element and are mounted on the heater box. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. These two components are often sold as a kit. If you fail to replace both of them you can experience premature failure of the component you do replace.

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If you haven't checked or cleaned the exhaust ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so . A dryer left in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures in the heating circuit. Not to mention this creates a fire hazard.

If you read through the link and determine that you have a bad heating element, follow these steps to remove:

1. Unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door.
2. Remove the lint screen from the dryer door.
3. Remove the blower fan housing vent cover.
4. Disconnect and label the component wiring on the heater box.
5. Loosen the mounting screw on the heater box front support.
6. The entire heater box, with element inside, should slide out of the dryer.
7. There should be a couple of mounting screws on the component side of the heater box that you need to remove and the entire element slides out.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer 110.60712990 Series 70

Your heating element is good. It should read between 9 to 13 ohms. If the heating circuits are working, then you don't have a problem with the heating circuits. The numbe ron cause of drye heat related problems, or longer dry times, is poorly installed, or clogged ventilation. A simple test to try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees).

If the air flow is normal, and your clothes dry normally, the problem is with your exhaust ducting from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. I would recommend you inspect the entire length of your exhaust ventliation to make sure it is free of kinks or clogs if this is the case.

If the air flow is weak, then the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. The most common source of the problem is a clog in the blower fan housing preventing air to flow properly. Remove the blower fan housing cover and clean as necessary. Make sure the blower fan can turn unobstructed.

Let me know if you still have problems. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite dryer has no heat -can't get unit open

Watch this:


Posted on Jul 04, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

We can't get our hot tub to heat. The heater light comes on but the heater still won't heat.


heating elements are resistors that get hot
one end will have 115 volts but the other end should be considerable less because the resistance of the heating element drops the voltage
if you used a ohm meter you should be reading a resistance of 500-1000 ohms for a good heater element but with your readings , there will be no resistance so the element is faulty

Apr 06, 2017 | Element Water Heaters

Tip

F05 Error Code on Whirlpool Duet & Kenmore Elite Front Loader Washing Machines


This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the “F05” Error Code.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

I hope this information if found to be helpful. If you have questions, or need assistance locating parts, please click on the following link and use the “ASK ME” feature for a quicker response.

http://www.fixya.com/users/jsrock516

on May 28, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Kenmore Elite Gas range, model # 790.79363401 The range works but the oven does not seem to heat up. It appears to ignite, just not get hot.


Hello,

the problem should be from the heating element of your Kenmore Elite Gas range. The heating element is either defective or may have loosed contact as a result of heat coming out of the Oven. The heat coming from the oven may have melted the wire connected to the heating element which might not make it heat up.

Disassemble the oven and check if its actually the wire connected to heating element that got melted, or its time to replace the heating element.

Good luck.

Dec 15, 2010 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore elite elec dryer, 110.64972300. runs no heat


Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .

Apr 28, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Electric model# 110/63022100 KENMORE ELITE dryer turns on yet no heat so clothes don't dry if it's a heating coil where do i locate it or how do i get to it to get it out?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The first thing you should check is your wall receptacle voltage to ensure you are getting between 220-240 VAC across the HOT leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots). If your input voltage is wrong, the heating circuits will not operate, but the drum still may turn. That's because the drive motor only requires 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is good, check the again at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Check across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same 220-240 VAC. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block and wall receptacle, check your circuit breakers. Some installations have two breakers controlling the dryer. If one trips, the dryer may run, but won't heat. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, your problem is internal to the dryer. This may save you the need to open the dryer if you have an external problem.

On your dryer, the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side.

In most cases the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails before the Heating Element. If the TCO is defective, it is strongly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These two components are commonly sold as a set and are located on the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Failure to replace both components may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

Make sure you take all resistance readings with the components unplugged to isolate them and prevent parallel resistance paths. If you do determine your heating element to be defective and need to remove it, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jul 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

What is the F05 error code for on my Kenmore elite he 4t washer


"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jun 16, 2009 | Kenmore 44932 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Stove top burners and lower baking element not heating up


If all the elements are dead, check for blown fuses/tripped circuit breakers. There may be some in the range unit itself in addition to your electrical service panel. If one element is completely dead on all heat settings, the control is probably bad or there is a broken wire. If it is stuck on high for all control settings or is erratic, the control is bad - replacements are readily available and easily installed.
On ranges with push button heat selection, a pair of heating elements are switched in various combinations across 120 and/or 240. If some heat settings do not work, the most likely cause is that one of the heatings elements is burnt out although a bad switch is also possible. Kill power to the range and test the heating elements for continuity with resistance meter or multimeter.

For the lower baking element:
Again, check for blown fuses in the oven or tripped circuit breakers. The remove any wiring to the bottom element and test for resistance. If you get no reading (or a very high resistance) then your element is dead.

May 09, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Bottom Element Open Circuit & Fan Element not working


No resistance in a bake element is a bad element. Replace it.
Most fan come on with a rise in heat. No heat/no fan.

Apr 08, 2009 | DeLonghi Ovens

1 Answer

F05 Error Code on Kenmore Elite HE3T Washer Model 11044932200


First of all, make sure you unplug the washer before making any measures, and make sure you unplug any connectors from the CCU, so you aren't reading parallel paths. Isolate the components you wish to test from the CCU or you may get inaccurate readings.

The reading across the heating element terminal should read 15 ohms. Make sure you aren't grounding your probe against the case, or you will get improper readings.

The NTC will read approximately what you have at room temperature. Was the connector plugged in before you began troubleshooting? A common problem is the connector falling off and generating the error code.

As far as the connector plug on the CCU is concerned, plug layouts can differ between models. Make sure you have the correct connector plug to the NTC. You may have to hand over hand it to find it. Unplug the connector at the CCU and leave it plugged in to the NTC. Perform a resistance check across the PLUG terminals. You should get the same readings as you mentioned before if the plug and wires are good. This not checks the resistance of the NTC, but also proves continuity of the wires.

Doublecheck your readings and let me know what you have. I would like to rule out a CCU problem. It is not common for this error code. I hope this helps you.

Sep 05, 2008 | Kenmore 44932 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Hot Water Heater Trouble


(1)Have the unit check for electric voltage to the element
If voltage going to the element and no heating
(2)Your heating element may be defective.
(3) Have it replace by qualified personel

Mar 27, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore 62062 Electric Dryer Logo

Related Topics:

183 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Sal DeAngelo

Level 3 Expert

2247 Answers

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3074 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...