First indication of problem was a tripped GFI outlet on the circuit that powers the stove top. I reset the outlet and I heard the stove fan on with a constant spark. All the burner valves were fully closed. I unplugged the power cord, plugged it back in and the fan stopped but it still sparks (at all 3 locations) every 8 to 10 seconds (much slower than if I turn a burner value to ignite. I suspect the spark relay (I disconnected the yellow wire on top of the relay and it stopped sparking). Any thoughts?
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Stove top? Are you sure the power supply is plugged into 120vac socket? Are you sure the receptical has power? Check with another appliance or light. If no power. Check your circuit breaker box. If circuit breaker is ok, Check for ground fault recepticals. Check test button. Reset. Check stove receptical above again. Hopefully you have solved the problem. If breakers or GFI will not reset, you have a major electrical problem. Call electrician.
If you mean absolutely no juice and haven't done so already, you need to check the breaker or fuse first. If the breaker/fuse is off flip the switch and try the oven. If the fuse trips again, you have a short someplace.
Obvious places would be the cord and outlet. To check these, turn the power off again and pull the stove out. Follow the cord and check it for broken areas areas. Then look at where it connects to the stove. Check the outlet and make sure that is intact.
If you see no problems with the outlet, the easiest way to check it without a tester is to simply plug another device into it.
the manufacturer recommends a 15 amp time delay breaker or fuse. Which means to me that a GFI outlet will not work on this unit. most of the time it just causes more problems than it is worth? I would only use those type of outlets if code required it.
there is no reset buton ,but there are some basic things u can do.first u can chk the power coming into the stove.open the back and u will see power cord connected to the stove.use a multimeter and chk voltage between black and red wire.it should read 240v and black/red with respect to green should read 120 volt.if that is ok look for any burnt wires etc.if all is ok then most likely could have control board.
This should be a 220 volt appliance so I'm trying to figure how this was connected to a GFI. Does it have a second connection to power the controls?
Most GFI uints I have seen are not rated for large amounts of power consumption. I used to throw the one in my bathroom if I was running the electric heater and the wife fired up the hair dryer.
I'm wondering if this indeed does require the additional 110 connection then it sould be pulling heavy current from it to aid in the cleaning process. I've never seen a stove that needed the extra. My old electric range had only the 220 as well as my elders.
So if that is the case then you should not be running that through the GFI outlet because of the heavy drain will heat the breaker in the GFI and cause it to trip. Breakers actually work very similar to how the old fuses work. Heat causes the switch to throw. GFI units have a lower tolerance (designed to detect shorts quicker to save your life) and trip quicker than breakers do.