I have seen this problem before. Lift the turntable off. It might be held down with a clip around the center pole. Under it you will see a wheel that contacts the turn table and the center shaft of the motor. The motor shaft has 3 0r 4 elevations with different diameters. When you change the speed the wheel will move up and down to different diameter levels on the motor shaft. It must be free to move. It might need some oil at the moving parts as I suspect it is not moving properly. Hope this helps.
Mine was playing too fast. After exhausting all options, I found a solution that worked perfect. My motor shafts that powers the belt is thicker in the middle and thinner above and below. The belt would always seek out the thickest part, no matter how I adjusted it. It played faster on that thick part and slower on the thin part. I simply shaved down the thick part a little. It took a couple of times, having to put the belt on and off to test it. I would let the motor run & used a sharp screwdriver to shave the metal drive shaft/rod down. It plays perfect now.
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Listen carefully with your ear to the turntable when you move the tone arm towards the record. If you can hear the motor running and the turntable is still stationary then the drive belt from motor to turntable has probably fallen off of broken. Lift the turntable, there's normally a metal clip holding the turntable in place, and locate the drive belt.
It sounds to me you have manufacture defect, you said it worked fine for two hours and then you ran into problems, if there were issues with the cd's they would not have played. I would do yourself a favor and return it for exchange or for a different unit.
what do you mean it drags? I noticed if you don't pull the arm back far enough,it will turn on,but the arm will drag foward scratching your record. Try pulling it bacl ALL the way and then it should give you no problems.
this sounds like the belt that drives the turntable itself is slipping you can normally access it by removing the securing clip by the centre spindle and then lift the turntable up and you should be able to see the belt give the belt a good clean with isopropyl alcohol refit and hey presto (if you still get slippage order a replacement belt )
If its a direct drive turntable the motor could be "blown",
or motor electonic speed controller burnt out.
If its a belt drive turntable then the belt could be broken
or stretched and is slipping, or the belt can have dropped of a drive pullety.
Also there are speed control mechanisms to adjust the final speed of the
turntable to the recorded speed of the record like 331/3rpm, 45rpm 75rpm
These speed reducing mechanisims can slip and cause the turntable not to turn..
There are also other mechanical bits that slide and push against each other,
and these can get sticky and the friction increases so much that the power
from the motor drive causes the belts to slip, so you need to identify if a
friction problem exists as well..
If you are carefull you can look your self and find out which one of the above it is.
Be warned there are lethal voltages inside the turntable which can kill you....
so please dont have the power on when making any inspection or adjustments.
Specifically the turntable AF-829:
I had exactly the same problem, and fixed this succesfully.
The problem is in one of the opto-coupler combinations (LED + LDR).
There are two, both located in the mechanical part of the turntable:
1. The first is for the detection when the arm reaches the end of the record, so that it will return to base. This is a red LED with an optocoupler in a little black case. This is OK.
2. The second one is for detection that the arm has reached the beginning of the record area. You can test this by manually pulling the arm from base and moving it towards the record. Then the turntable should start to rotate. You will see it does not.
The problem is that either the LED has not got enough light-emission any more, or the LDR has become more insensitive. It's a transparent LED that radiates RED light.
I replaced the LED by a new (red) one with higher light output, and now it's working fine again.