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If I remove the power to my atx type computer power supply after windows has powered down, it will not restart (after I reconnect the ac power) by pressing the On button on the front of the computer. Under this condition I must ground pin 16 on the power connector at the mother board and then press the On button to get the computer to start up. If I don't remove ac power from the power supply after Windows has powered down, the computer will start up by pressing the on button on the front of the computer. Question; Is this a power supply problem or is it a motherboard problem? The computer is a Dell Dimension 5100 type.

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  • rgh1016 Aug 31, 2010

    The BIOS has not been changed. Prior to this situation occurring, the machine had always operated properly.

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Check the BIOS to see what it is configured for.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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The local electricity supply went off and when power was restored the computer would not come back on again. What has happened?


Could have been a voltage spike. When the utility company turns the juice back on, there is a rush of power. This is needed to meet the power demands for all the users, who are on the line.

Problem is the voltage may be higher than what is needed, and a spike may occur. (Spike: Temporary voltage increase )

No sir. The utility company is not held responsible. (Yes, that bites!)

I have found that around 80 percent of the time, the problem is a bad Power On switch, or a bad Power Supply, when this occurs.

{The rest of the time the power went further than the Power Supply, and burned out the motherboard, Processor, Ram Memory, etc}

Power Supplies used in desktop computers, are generally a generic low quality unit.
Low quality Electrolytic Capacitors, Rectifier Bridge, MOSFET's, small gauge wiring, etc.

Couple that with some age on the Power Supply, and it doesn't take much to put it in an 'early grave'. (Plus being dirty inside)

I suggest you test to see if the problem is a $5 ATX power on switch, or the Power Supply.
I can only give you generic information, as the computer manufacturer name, and model number were not given.

(It's on the back of the computer tower next to the Windows product key, or up on the side/top of the tower, or behind a hinged panel in the front of the computer )

The test is to use a jumper wire, and bypass the Power On switch.
This has Nothing to do with the switch itself, however.

The main power cable coming from the Power Supply, and plugging into the motherboard, is either a 20-pin ATX main power cable, or a 24-pin ATX main power cable.
(Unless the desktop computer is Real old)

1) Basic example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

{NOTE* Color of connectors does Not matter }

2) Basic example of a 24-pin ATX power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

(Same thing about color)

Here's the way it works when you press the Power On button, and the computer is plugged into power;

The Power Supply, when plugged into power, has a constant 5 Volt standby power present. (DC)

Pressing the Momentary Contact Switch of a Power On switch, momentarily routes the 5 volt power present in the Power Supply, back to another circuit in the Power Supply.

The Soft Power On circuit.
This small voltage 'excites' the Power Supply, and turns it on.
(No pun intended)

As stated, the Standby power is 5 Volts.
It is 5 Volts DC. In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
Stated in case you are worried about electrical shock.

(The Power Supply in your computer is a SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply.

It converts the AC power from your home, or business, into three main low DC voltages.
3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts.

No matter if your country uses 100 Volts AC, or 120 Volts AC, or 220 Volts AC )

Look at either ATX main power cable. Note in the photo to the far right, the power cable is shown plugged into the motherboard. This is how it should be for the test.

Note also that the wires go in the BACK of the connector, and there is one Green wire.
This is the Soft Power On wire. (Can be abbreviated as PS_ON)

ALL of the Black wires you see are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip. It is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.

The U is wrapped a few times, with black plastic electrical tape
for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

The 'legs' go down into the socket holes, in the BACK of the ATX power cable's connector.

The jumper 'legs' go down in the socket holes, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wires already in the socket holes.

Right next to the GREEN wire, and ANY Black wire.

At the end of every wire going down into the back of the connector, (ATX main power cable connector) is a metal terminal.

This metal terminal is pretty far down in the socket hole. (1/2 inch?)
The jumper wire MUST touch the metal terminals.

The contact made is temporary. No longer than 2 seconds.
(Power Supply plugged into power)

IF, the Power Supply comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.

IF, the Power Supply does Not come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

The Power On switch, is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly.
It is an ATX Power On switch.

This is one example,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

The plastic of the Power On button assembly gets hard over time, and with constant heat from the computer.
The best method I have found, is to remove the Front Panel, and the Power On button assembly.

[ NOTE* Make notes as to which pins on the motherboard, in the Front panel header, the wires of the Power On switch go to.

I may Not have access to the Front Panel header pinout, to tell you where those wires went.

{The plastic front of your desktop computer is the Front Panel.
The area of pins on the motherboard, that the wires from the Front Panel go to, is the Front Panel header ]

I then use a hairdryer, or a bowl of very warm water, to soften the plastic.
(The ATX power on switch inside is going to be thrown away. Doesn't matter if it gets wet )

Then carefully ease the case of the Power On button assembly out, and ease the ATX power on switch out.

There MAY be a spark as you connect the jumper wire. Letting you know in advance. The tape is to protect your fingers.
You may feel safer using a glove on that hand.

The voltage however, is 5 Volts DC. As previously stated two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.

Would appreciate it if you would post back in a Comment, as to your findings.
With the computer manufacturer name, and model number, I may be able to show you direct information.

I can also help you decide on a Power Supply to buy, should it be the problem.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Feb 11, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Whereis the fuse on a hp 523n pc


None to my knowledge tonytegroce.

If there were one it would be at the back of the Power Supply in a fuse holder, or inside the Power Supply's case.

Power supply should be rated at a maximum wattage of 200 Watts, and is probably made by Bestec, HiPro, or Delta.
(Actual maximum wattage is more like 60 to 70 percent of what is stated. 120 Watts to 140 Watts)

{ NOTE*
I Do Not recommend opening the Power Supply. Inside the Power Supply are Electrolytic Capacitors.

Electrolytic Capacitors are designed to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once.
Rough comparison is a large swimming pool filled up by a garden hose, then one wall is taken down all at once.

Electrolytic Capacitors can hold a charge for Weeks, Months, sometimes over a year, when power to them has been removed. (In this case; Power Supply unplugged from power)

IF, your fingers touch the two terminals on the bottom of a capacitor, the charge can be released to YOU.
IF, your fingers complete a circuit, that one or more capacitors are in, the charge can be released to YOU }


If the computer does not come on when you push the Power On button:

1) Check to see if the surge protector has power. Is the Power On LED light lit?

Next check to see if THAT receptacle in the surge protector, has power. The receptacle in the surge protector that the computer is plugged into.
You can use a table lamp, for one, to test.

I have had 4 surge protectors now, that just THE receptacle the computer was plugged into, had NO power.
Everything else had power. Monitors, router, sound system, printer, etc.


Sure that the computer is receiving power?
2) Perform the test to see if the Power On switch is bad, or the Power Supply.

{The Power On switch is an ATX power on switch. It is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly.

Example of an ATX Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html }

The test is to bypass the Power On switch. It does not involve the Power On switch, or the pins on the motherboard that it connects to.

A jumper wire is used on the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.
This is an example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

This is an illustration, and photo of the FIC AM35 motherboard, used in the HP Pavilion 523n Desktop PC,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07899&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=90387

Scroll the page down. Illustration is first, photo second.

Motherboard sitting as it is in your computer; Processor to the top, and Ram Memory slots to the right, the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector on the motherboard, is to the Right of the ram memory slots.

In the illustration it is labeled - ATX Power Connector

In the photo it is to the right of the long Black ram memory slots, and is a whitish/yellow connector with two columns of 10 squarish socket holes.

Referring back to the example of the 20-pin ATX main power connector;

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Observe the photo all the way to the right. The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard. This is the way it should be for the test.

A jumper wire is used to temporarily connect the Green wire, to ANY Black wire.
The Green wire you see is a Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.

ALL of the Black wires you see are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip. It's small size, and stiffness is ideal for this application.
The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.

The middle of the U-shape is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape.
This area is for your fingers to hold onto.

The 'legs' of the U-shape is inserted down into the socket holes of the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

The paper clip's 'legs' are inserted down into the socket holes, in the Back of the ATX main power cable connector.
The Back is where the wires go in.

The legs MUST be inserted down into the socket hole pretty far.
At the bottom of every wire going into the connector, is a metal terminal. (Female)
The legs of the paper clip MUST touch those metal terminals.

The legs go down in the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole.
One leg goes down in a socket hole with the GREEN wire, the other leg goes down in ANY socket hole with a Black wire.

The contact period made is No longer than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

IF the computer (Power Supply) comes on, the Power On switch is bad.

IF the computer (Power Supply) Does Not come on, the problem is a bad Power Supply.

Shock Warning:

The Soft Power On circuit uses 5 Volts DC.
Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

There may, or may not be a spark when you touch the jumper wire.
If it makes you feel more comfortable, you may wish to wear a glove on the hand that uses the jumper wire. (Paper clip)

{Note*
One single wrap of black plastic electrical tape will insulate you from 600 Volts DC }

Post back in a Comment as to your findings after the test.

Regards,
joecoolvette

{Added note*
The harmful voltages are inside the Power Supply's case.
The Power Supply converts AC voltage into DC voltage.

(USA - 120 Volts AC
Europe - 220 Volts AC
Australia - 220 Volts AC
Japan - 100 Volts AC)

The DC voltages that the computer uses is.
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

Inside the computer are very low DC voltages }

Oct 18, 2011 | HP Pavilion 523n (P9851AR#ABA) PC Desktop

1 Answer

I have a password problem on my laptop,but not window password it board password please help my out.


If you are talking about the password that is just ask when the comp starts....You can try this...



The power-on password prevents use of the computer until the password is entered. The
setup password prevents unauthorized changes to Computer Setup. To clear the
passwords, you must remove all power from the system board. If you do not know the
passwords, use the following procedure to clear the password:
1. Remove all battery packs.
2. Disconnect the AC power.
3. Remove the real-time clock battery.
4. Wait thirty minutes.
5. Reconnect the AC power. DO NOT INSTALL THE BATTERY!
6. Restart the computer. During Power-On Self Test (POST), a â 162 System Options
not setâ message appears.
7. Shut down the computer, then disconnect AC power again.
8. Replace the real-time clock battery.
9. Install the battery pack(s).
10. Reconnect the AC power.
11. Start the computer.

May 06, 2011 | HP Pavilion dv6000z 15.4" Notebook Laptop...

1 Answer

I dont remember power on password for hp nc4400


The power-on password prevents use of the computer until the password is entered. The
setup password prevents unauthorized changes to Computer Setup. To clear the
passwords, you must remove all power from the system board. If you do not know the
passwords, use the following procedure to clear the password:
1. Remove all battery packs.
2. Disconnect the AC power.
3. Remove the real-time clock battery.
4. Wait thirty minutes.
5. Reconnect the AC power. DO NOT INSTALL THE BATTERY!
6. Restart the computer. During Power-On Self Test (POST), a ? 162 System Options
not set? message appears.
7. Shut down the computer, then disconnect AC power again.
8. Replace the real-time clock battery.
9. Install the battery pack(s).
10. Reconnect the AC power.
11. Start the computer.
12.It should work....

Apr 08, 2011 | HP Compaq nc4400 Notebook

1 Answer

Mac cannot see 750GB maxtor 4


Did you disconnect the firewire drive before installing? You may need to update your firmware. Also, try these things:

1. Shut down and disconnect your firewire drive leaving nothing is connected to the firewire ports.
2. Restart, and use Disk Utility to repair permissions on your internal.
3. Shut down, and disconnect the AC power from the computer and your drive; also remove battery if laptop.
4. Let computer sit unpowered and disconnected for15 minutes.
5. Reconnect AC power to only the computer and reinsert battery.
6. Restart computer.
7. Verify that firewire ports are visible using System Profiler.
8. Reconnect your firewire drive, and refresh window in System Profiler to rescan the firewire bus, and confirm that drive is visible.
9. Repair disk and permissions on the firewire drive.

Dec 13, 2010 | Maxtor OneTouch 4 500GB External USB 2.0...

1 Answer

I turned it off. Next morning there was no screen when I turned it on.


Hi,

Please perform the following steps:

Power drain process:

1. Shut the computer down.
2. Disconnect the AC adapter and remove the battery.
3. Press the power button down for about 30-60 seconds.
4. Reconnect the AC adapter and the battery.
5. Restart the computer.

Alternately you can test your Notebook power by removing and inserting the Memory and Hard-Disk in their locations.

May 25, 2010 | Acer Aspire 5100 Notebook

2 Answers

Power supply or motherboard problem?


Hi talissap,

The blinking light is telling you something about the PSU. First check any AC mains voltage select switches for proper setting. US should be 115. Second if you have a multimeter, you could test the PSU for voltage. Disconnect all power to all components. remove all components from the board including cpu, memory . Leave the PSU only plugged into the board. Press power. If the fan turns on then it's not the power supply. The brand power supply isn't the best, I've seen where you need to wait for 5-20 minutes for the blinking to stop, at which time it will fire up. Now, if it doesn't power up, then it's most likely the PSU.

Good Luck,

Mark

Dec 08, 2009 | Bestec (ATX-250-12E) 250-Watt Power Supply

3 Answers

What is Mini Tower ATX Cabinet


A mini tower is a PC desktop case which is approx half the height of a full size desktop tower case. ATX probably refers to a ATX switch mode power supply.

Sep 10, 2009 | ASUS TM-220 (generic) Micro ATX Mini Tower...

2 Answers

E-machine wont power up


Your power supply is fried. I had the same problem with my Bestec ATX 250 power supply. I fixed the problem by installing the StatTech model: ATXPOWER250. It was easy to install and works well. It is almost identical to the original but more quiet. I got it for $29 at MicroCenter.com. Also at online Newegg.com, Radioshack.com, Provantage.com, June 20,2009

Feb 01, 2009 | Gateway Emachine Bestec ATX-250-12E PS...

1 Answer

I have an old e machine 500 (origional operating system was windows 98). I am replacing the ATX switching power supply , 230 wat, model lp6100a. My problem is connecting it. I know all the connectors...


The old AT power supply that these old computers uses has two six pin socket connectors and these are different to the ATX connector.
You cannot buy these power supply now, most likely you might find one/computer in a junk shop.
If you have electronic knowledge you might be able to cut off the connectors from the old power supply and connect it to the ATX power supply and modify the ATX power supply so you can switch on the power to the old computer. The old AT power supply uses a mains power switch whereas the ATX uses low voltage to turn on the power supply.
Good luck & have fun.

Nov 29, 2008 | Powmax 400 Watt ATX Switching Power Supply...

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