I have the above model. About a month ago I noticed that my fridge was making noise. I removed that back pannel and noticed that there was an excesive amount of ice build up around the fan so I unpluged that whole unit, removed the back pannel and defrosted the ice build up. I noticed a couple of days later that the ice maker was no longer making ice automaticly. I can ust the test button and make ice manually. The water flows fine to the tray and it freezes fine but it will not dump and refill on its own. I was trying to fix this so I installed a new water filter and reset the filter life with no luck. Then i thought that I could unplug the fridge to "reset it". Now the temp controlls for the whole unit seem to be working improperly. I have to use the power cool setting to get the fridge and the freezer temperatures down to where they should be at. Then the fridge and freezer begin to warm back up. using the power cool function I can get the temps to -6 freez, and 34 fridge. then they rise to 35 freez, 51 fridge. Please Help!!!!
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Re: SAMSUNG RS253BAWW NOT WORKING
The ice maker wont cycle untill the temp of the ice is around 10 degrees so if the freezer is at 15 or 20 due to some other malfunction then you will see the maker full of ice but it wont harvest and make another batch. so you could have a sensor bad, control malfunction, refrigeration issue, compressor, defrost system malfunction(you mentioned ice build up)
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This is caused by the ice building up in at the back - the fan catches the ice and eventually will stop. With the fan malfunctioning the temperature will rise and the light then flashes. Keep searching the web, and you will find instructions how to remove the back and de-ice it. I had exactly the same problem 2 months ago. Make sure that it is fully de-iced, including the tray at the bottom. Ours has worked OK since!
You have the fan problem. Full the refrigerator out and open the lower back cover you will see you fan is almost become bad. If you apply WD1040 oil you can use it about 3 more months. Then It will die out. I think you better change it now or later on you refrigerator become hot and hotter. If you are careless, you can get burn you skin. I had this problem. Frist, the fan made noise on and off. I applied oil into the motor. It was working about 3 months then I died out. The front end of refrigerator become a heater.
Go to online partstore.com and buy a fan with your fan model.
The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.
Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).
Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.
If the noise from the compressor sounds like a humming followed by a click, the compressor is "short cycling". Could be either the compressor relay or the compressor itself is bad. Not sure on the hissing noise. Could be just a loose panel that needs to be tightened or adjusted.
Same issue with my 6 yr old Maytag side-by-side model #MSD2756GEW. Turned out it was caused by a faulty circuit board. This circuit board is located in the upper right fridge section. Apparently these boards are sensitive to power surges (which we have here in central Texas from time to time.) When the circuit board is fried, it makes a noise like a fan blade malfunctioning and it stops the auto defrost feature in the freezer from working. So the freezer ices up at the back, and the ice prevents the cold air from reaching the fridge section.
Our circuit board (which we thought was a fan) made ominous noises for a few months. (The noise would last only a minute or so and stop shortly after we opened a door). Eventually we noticed that the fridge wasn't as cold and the freezer had snow in it. Finally the board stopped making noise and about a week or so afterward we noticed that the milk had spoiled and the fridge wasn't very cold. The food in the freezer side pretty solidly frozen, thankfully.
In addition to replacing the circuit board, the fridge had to be de-iced or it would not work properly. I put it all frozen into a large camping cooler where it stayed for several hours. I opened the freezer doors and put table fan and pointed a hobby light which gets quite hot, at the back of the freezer. Within 3 hours, the ice had melted significantly so I could see through the grate at the back of the freezer. This really great technician named Tracy, made a special trip to the parts store to get the circuit board and came back within a couple hours, bringing with him a steamer. He removed the back panel inside the freezer section (the coils are behind there) and used the steamer to melt the rest of the ice before he left.
Tracey, who works for a local appliance repair company, told me that about 4 years ago, Maytag started making their fridges with built-in surge protection, so the circuit boards apparently don't get fried on the newer models as they do on my 6 yr old model. He recommended that we put plug the fridge into a heavy-duty surge protector - which we are definitely going to do.
BURY IT, NO ONLY JOKING, YOU DO HAVE A DEFROST FAULT, SAMSUNG ARE RENOWNED FOR THESE FAULTS, REMOVE THE BACK AND CHECK THE FOLLOWING, YOU WILL HAVE A DEFROST SENSOR, USUALLY TWO YELLOW WIRES WITH A WHITE BULD ON THE END, PUT A MULTIMETER ACROSS THE END OF THE WIRESES AND HOLD THE WHITE END IN YOUR HAND TIGHT, YOU SHOULD SEE THE RESTANCE CHANGING, IF NOT IT IS FAULTY, TO THE RIGHT OF THE EVAPORATOR YOU WILL SEE BLACK AND RED WIRES CHECK YOU HAVE A CIRCUIT THROUGH THIS ITEM, IT IS A THRMAL FUSE, IF THAT IS OK THEN METER OUT THE TWO HEATERS, IF THEY ARE OK THEN YOU HAVE A POWER MODUE FAULT.