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I have a GE GSH22JSTASS, same problem with both sides not getting cold. Previous answer about the PSS26MSRSS was helpful but the plugs on my model are not the same. (I think the posting was Pt# WR55X10942) Can you advise which plug wires to jump in order to confirm that the compressor is working or not? Thanks very much. I'd like to know whether or not it is the compressor or the main control board.

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  • Hookdriver Aug 30, 2010

    Sorry, I'm good with a volt-meter but the information was too general verses specific for my model.

  • Hookdriver Aug 30, 2010

    Again, this is very generalized information. I need information that is specific to the GE GSH22JSTASS. I would like Guru AASC to review the question.

  • Hookdriver Aug 30, 2010

    AGain, I am looking for an answer similar to WR55X10942.

  • Hookdriver Aug 30, 2010

    The compressor is running when I plug the unit in....so I don't believe there is a bad capacitor. Everything runs.

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Hi,

You could read a nice article that i wrote for the same problem :-

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3886637-refrigerator_not_cooling_enough_or_not

Now,

Yes it could be compressor ( rare ) or compressor relay ( more often ).

On the side of the compressor you will see a box (maybe a cover) remove the cover if it has one and then remove the wire harness. next you will see the relay with the capacitor mounted to it. give the relay a tug and pull it off the side of the compressor. once you have it off pull the capacitor off and then give the relay a shake. If it rattles the relay is bad. if the relay does not rattle the compressor is bad and you will need to call a service guy to replace the compressor.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Aug 30, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    There is one more problem related to these GE models i.e Motherboard. Most of the times, when you look at the motherboard visually - you would be able to see burned solder joints. There were many recalls in the past for the same reason.If you have power into the board on, you should see a connector with three terminals. One of those terminals is marked COMP. Read this in reference to ground. If you do not have 120 volts, you're board is bad

    If you wish to consult with another expert, you could ' reject ' this solution and other expert ( AASC or any other ) would be able to assist you from here.

    Let me know,if needed further assistance.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!


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Welcome to FixYa
Dear User
Make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings.The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
Thanks for Connecting FixYa..

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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There is a start up capacitor or motor beside the compressor and a relay beside the compressor.If the capacitor/motor or relay is faulty then also compressor will not function as it should. If the fridge is less then 5 years old - the compressor should be under the full manufacturer warranty.

It covers the compressor, but does not cover the start device.

In that case do not worry about the compressor. Replace the start device and if the compressor would not work - call the GE authorized service.

If it's more then 5 years old, the only what you can test is the electrical part of the compressor (motor).

After the start device has been removed check continuity across each pair of the compressor terminals. They all should have the resistance reading between 3 to 8 Ohms. If any of the pair is open or shorted - the compressor is gone.

Even if the result is good it does not prove the compressor is good mechanically. You can see it only after the start device has been replaced.

You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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Hello,

If you like to test the compressor on your refrigerator, follow the steps below to test the compressor for continuity.

Unplug the refrigerator or turn off the breaker that powers it. Since you will have to get to the backside of the refrigerator anyway, I would advice you unplug it. With the cover off, you should see the relay, the overload protector and the terminals for the compressor motor. The relay can be removed simply by pulling it straight off of the compressor.

Use the needle-nose pliers to pull the wire connector off of the relay. Pull it off by gripping the connector, NOT the wire. Inspect both the connector and the relay for any signs of corrosion. If there are any, then you should replace the corroded part.

On the compressor motor you should see three terminals. Set your multitester to read ohms, usually the RX1 or X1 setting, depending on the model of tester. Touch one of the tester's probes to one of the terminals and leave it there. Then, use the other probe to touch first one of the other terminals and then the last one. The tester should display a reading of "zero" ohms for each test.

Move the probe you held on the first terminal and hold it in place on the second terminal. Use the other probe to touch each of the other terminals. The tester should continue reading "zero" ohms with each test. Hold the probe on the last terminal and touch the other two terminals individually with the other probe. Again, the readings should all come up "zero" ohms. If the compressor motor fails any of these tests, it will need to be serviced by a professional refrigerator repairman. While you are testing the compressor motor, you might as well test the compressor for ground. Keeping your multitester setting on ohms, touch one probe to the side of the metal box that houses the relay. With the other probe, touch each of the three compressor motor terminals one at a time. The tester should read "infinity" every time. If it doesn't, the compressor motor will need to be serviced by a professional.












Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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