How do you drill screws thru vent to cabinets what do you open

try this drill out the failed section for the screws for the hinges
select a drill size for a large dowel size from the hardware shop glue and tap the dowel in the hole 9 best glue is liquid nails or equivalent)
let it set then fix the hinges back in place
use metal thread screws not tapered wood screws and drill the hole for the screws so that the screws go in tight

open the cabinet door above the microwave there should be four screws going thru bottom of the cabinet shelf holding it on to cabinet have a helper hold the microwave as you unscrew it

Most Kenmore microhoods use a 3" by 10" exhaust duct. Check for correct demensions. Make sure that the existing vent is this size or that you have room to adapt to this size. There should be a damper mounted to the top of the micro which will attach to the vent duct work. You will need an outlet in the cabinet above the micohood. This should be on a circuit of it's own. The microhood should have a wall plate for the back wall. I'm going to assume there are no templates available. Hold the wall plate against the back of the micro to determine the height placement in the opening. Most install centered under and against the cabinet above. Not all do, so this will confirm. Mount the wall plate to the existing wall studs with at least 1/4" by 2-1/2" lag bolts. Bore an 1-1/4" hole in the right rear corner of the cabinet above, about 2" out from the back of the cabinet and 2" in from the side, this is not a critical measurement, it is to pass the electric cord into the upper cabinet. There are two screws that support the front of the hood. I believe they are 1/4" by 3-1/2" long. If not included, check for size. The hardwae will have them, get flat washers to fit both also. Measure from the back of the micro to the mounting holes in the top of the micro, include the wall plate in this measurement, they'll be about 10" out from the back and about 1-1/2" in from the edge, near the front, but check that measurement, they vary. Drill 3/8" holes in the bottom of the cabinet at these locations. If doing this alone, best that you move the range out. It's nice to have a helper at lifting time. With the plate on the wall and the holes in the bottom of the cabinet, your ready. Put the 1/4" screws and someting to drive them in the upper cabinet, so they'll be available. Lift the micro into the opening with the front tilted downward, hook the back of it into the bottom of the wall plate, push the cord into the upper cabinet, tilt the front of the micro up until you can start the front support screws. Start both, don't let go of the micro until you are sure that both screws are started and will support the front weight. Once you're sure, tighten both screws all the way and connect the vent. Steel tape is best for sealing up any leaks. Power up the outlet, plug in the microhood and put in the popcorn. Get a good movie and enjoy in your accomplishment. Congrats. PS: Make sure the roof vent opens when the hood is turned on, I have seen them stuck shut from grease build-up.

Most likely you need to open the chuck and see if is held on with a screw thru the center. If yes remove screw and turn chuck to remove.

I would add 2x4 angle bracing from under the cabinet to the wall, if you plan to put any weight into the cabinets.

1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw from　each side of the console.
   
2. Pull the console forward and up to remove the tabs on the bottom of the end caps, out of the holes in the top.
   
3. Lift the console up and lay it on its back.
   
4. Unplug the harness connector　for the lid switch.
   
5. Insert a flat screwdriver into the front edge of the clip (located on both sides), and pry back. Remove both clips from the holes in the cabinet and slide down the other end of the clips and out the slot in the rear panel.
   
6. Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening. Be sure when tilting the cabinet that the back edge clears the vacuum break.
   
7. Tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling on the lid and opening of the cabinet. This releases the back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the back of the base.
   
8. Carefully pull the cabinet away from the base of the washer and set it aside.
   Now you have access to most of the parts.　

That should solve your cabinet removal. now with the cabinet away, the two screws can be reattached. Look in the bottom of the base to see if you see the retainer if it isn't still by the switch itself. Use the screws, thru the cab first, thru the switch and attach to the retainer. Just hand tight is sufficient, usually. If you buy a new switch, see that it has a retainer with it. You may be able to reinstall it without taking the cab. off but this is tricky if you aren't sure what you're doing as you can't see it.

typically cabinets are screwed together and into the wall. Get a flash light and look for screws in the cabinet, under the cabinet and in the adjacent cabinets

Installing one of these between two cabinets and supported by the one above it is a pain ..but even worse if you don't have the installation directions. If you are relatively handy and have some carpenntry experience, I'll walk you thru the way I install them. First off, I assume you are installing this above a stove and betwwen two wall cabinets.. You need to do a little preparation work first. locate the wall mount bracket and you should have a packet of hardware ( primarily two long screws that will be used to support the front of the micro from the cabinet above) If you have all this.. you'll need to determine if you are going to vent the micro back into the room or plan to vent it outside. The simplest is to vent it back into the rook thru a charcoal filter but if you are going tovent it outside, you have two choices.. one is to vent it up thru the cabinet and outside via ductwork that you buy..if the microwave oven is being attached to an outside wall then it is easiest to vent it straight out the back ( i say this because you have to orient the blower in teh configuration that you are planning to use) Let's assume you will be venting this back into the room ( that's the easiest ) and move on.. The wall mount bracket supports the back bottom of the microwave oven when you secure it and the two long screws will be used to bring the front of the micro up against the bottom of the cabinet above it... I normally locate the wall studs and then buy and fit a 1/2 inch piece of plywood onto the wall where the micro will be mounted. The microwave will project out 1/2 inch further as a result of this plywood panel but.. you can use lots of drwall screws to the secure the plywood to the wall studs and then you can mount the wall bracket onto this plywood without having to worry about where the studs are and if it will support the microwaves weight. Mount the bracket onto this plywood piece. I will use drwall screws and add flat washers to them to provide additional support. Once that bracket is installed, you will need to figure out how you are going to provide power to the microwave. If you are replacing an existing oven then you will probably have a power fees inside the cabinet =situated above the microwave oven. If not, then you will need to provide a power feed for this. In the old days, most of these appliances were hard wired into junction boxes but nowadays, most appliances are treated as removable and all you will need is an outlet box in the cabinet above. I suggest you bore a hole large enough for the power cord plug to fit thru the bottom of the cabinet so that you can plug it in. The next part is the hardest to accomplish.. If you look at the top of the microwave oven, you should see two holes near thhe front and on top. Those two holes have floating captive nuts inside them that the long screws ( included in your hardware kit) will be used to snug the front of the micro up against the bottom of the cabinet above it.. The trick is to measure from the back wall out to where these holes need to be drilled in the cabinet above so that they line up. You can drill bigger holes than you need and use oversize washers if necessary. If this sounds complicated ..it IS.. i have put many of these in and unless you are actually doing one, youhave no idea how involved this can be.. even worse with ducting to the outside.... I hope this gives you some tricks on how to install.. And um.. if you do get this all together, you will need some help actually putting it in place.. You'll need to catch the back of the microwave onto the tabs of the wall bracket and then feed the wire thru the cabinet while you lift the entire thing up to start the screws from the cabinet down onto the top of the microwave. I'm a big guy and have done these myself but it is not easy.. Hope this helps you.. Lastly, here is a link to the GE website where you can download the user manual and search their FAQ for install details ( in retrospect, I just should have given you that info).. http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/
Hope this helps you...
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If you are referring to an over your stove combination microwave/ vent system then they are typically secured thru the cabinet above them. Try opening the cabinet directly over the oven ( you may need a step ladder to see the mounting hardware) and look near the front of that cabinet for two screws on the bottom of that cabinet. These two screws go thru the cabinet and support the front of the microwave oven. You may also see the power cord for that mircrowave oven plugged into a receptacle inside that cabinet. Unplug that cord and then begin unscrewing the two screws. ( it's best if you have a helper work with you).. as you unscrew them, the front of the microwave should begin to drop down a bit. Once the screws are removed, you should be able to lift the back panel up a little bit to free the microwave of the wall mounting bracket. Once that is doen, you will be able to remove the microwave. I am assuming that your microwave does not have any vent pipe secured to it. If it does, then you will need to seperate that from the microwave vent on top ( assuming it is venting thru the top) .. These microwaves can be vented in any of 3 ways, thru the top, outthe back or configured to vent back into the room. In any case, you should see ductwork while removing this from the cabinet. Hope this helps you get the job done...

You have a few options, First off, I am assuming that the stud you refer to is an outside wall. Assuming that is true, then you have a few options.... one of them is to cut thru the stud and run the vent out. Even if that stud is on a bearing wall ( meaning it is carrying a roof load above it) ... It is unlikely to pose a problem if that one stud has been compromised with it cut out, If that concerns you.. and you are handy, you can open that area of wall up from the inside and box the area that the vent will be located in with short pieces of 2x4 to the studs on either side of it... Another option is to vent the hood up thru the cabinet above and direct that out slightly offset to the stud in the wall..
One thing I have done is to cut the stud out and then to place a piece of 1/2" plywood in the area that the micro/hood will be located and attach that piece with drywall screws to the studs in the wall.. That piece of plywood will help support the stud you cut when you screw it to the adjacent studs and also act as a place to secure the hood mounting bracket on the wall. Granted, it shifts the hood out from the wall 1/2 " but then you have plenty of surface to secure the plate and don't have to worry about hitting a stud or using wall anchors.. I hope you understand my comments..If not...please respond to this and I will provide additional information to clarify this... Hope this helps !