Question about True 72 cu. ft. / 2039 liter Commercial Freezer GDM-72F

1 Answer

Electrical shock everytime I touch the metal..

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that hasĀ over 500 points.

    Novelist:

    An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 193 Answers

The problem is simple, the solutiion is difficult. There is a direct short somewhere in the system. If you remove the bottom front grill, you will see where the electricity comes into the unit.From that point forward a bare hot wire is touching the frame of the freezer. If you have a continuety tester, you may be able to find the problem with the power off. This is a time consuming situation and if you are not familiar with electrical circuits, it may be beyond what you are willing to tackle. You will have to isolate each circuit to determine which circuit has the short. One place to start is with the power cord itself. If you have continuety between the ground wire and either of the two hot wires, if 220 volt unit, the problem may be in the cord. If not continue to check the circuits from hot wire to ground. You may be able to disconnect the light circuit from the main power supply to see if the short is there. I have traced shorts for hours before finding a burned wire. Good luck.

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Light bulb is not working. how to change it and what kind of bulb is it model: FKFH21F7HW


Good Afternoon Rose, I am happy to assist you!

Before replacing the light bulb in your Frigidaire freezer please confirm that the temperature control is set in the OFF position and unplug your appliance to avoid electrical shock. Typically, you may remove the light bulb by turning it counter-clockwise. The old bulb can be replaced by an equivalent watt bulb (part number is 216988100) available either from part distributors or hardware stores. I hope this information helps to some degree!

Feb 25, 2014 | Frigidaire FKFH21F7HW Freezer

1 Answer

How to defrost upright freezer


My name s Peter. I am a retired field service technician.
1.) First, lets check your defrost timer. You will need a small flat head screw driver. Pull your freezer out to where you can get behind it. Do not unplug your freezer yet. There is a small white box almost 2" square. On this box is a small shaft with a slot in it. Turn this dial with your screw driver slowly until your unit shuts down (Compressor not running). What you have just done is force your unit into the defrost mode.
If the unit does not shut down you have a bad defrost timer. We are not done with the defrost timer yet.
Take a break, grab a cup of coffee, allow the unit 30 minutes to defrost.
Upon returning if the freezer has defrosted you have a bad defrost timer. Unplug the freezer and replace. Easy job.
2.) Ok, not the timer. Lets check the freezer drain. At times the freezer drain freezes up. When the unit goes into defrost the condensate can not go down the drain and you build up a wall of ice behind the bottom back wall.
Unplug the freezer. Pop the setting control knob off on the lower back panel. You may need a screw driver to wedge it off. Pull the seal strips out on the 2 sides. Unscrew all of the fasteners on the back panel cover. You can not remove the cover yet. You must disconnect the temperature control. There are different mountings. Perhaps 2 screws holding the control to the back cover or a connector where you need a small screw driver to wedge them apart.
Ok, you observe a wall of ice and have a frozen drain. Do not let the freezer defrost itself, you will have a flood. Using a hair dryer and a plastic spatula melt the ice and remove it in chunks. This is a long consuming task, take you time. Be careful not to touch any of the unit components. Let the hair dryer do the work on the evaporator coil etc. Clear the drain with hot water soak up as much as you can. We do not want this to happen again - lets make a heat sink. Taking a piece of 12-14 gauge wire about 3' long, strip about 2" off one end. You should wear gloves. The fins on the evaporator coil are razor sharp. Wrap the striped end of the wire around the defrost heater (Long black bar beneath the evaporator coil). Secure it tightly. Extend the other end of the wire to your drain hole. You want to cut the wire where you strip 2" of exposed bare wire into the drain hole. So, when your defrost heater is on any ice in the drain hole will be melted. Reassemble the back panel. Plug the unit in.
3.) Huh? None of these? Well then, you have to have either a bad defrost heater or bi-metal. Be careful of the evaporator coil is razor sharp. There are two connectors on each end of your defrost heater. These connectors pull apart, they are a little difficult at times. Please wear gloves. You need a multi-meter. Set the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Touch the ends of the probes together, the meter should read 1.0. Insert one end of the probe into one end of the heater connector and the other probe into the other end. If the meter does not change the heater is bad. If you get a reading between 0-50 Ohms the heater is good.
4.) Not the heater!!!!! Your heater and Bi-metal work together. It is good practice when you replace one you should replace the other.
Your Bi-metal is a small canister looking item, silver color and clipped onto the tubing in the upper right hand corner. Disconnect and remove this item. Place the Bi-metal in a glass of water. Once again touch the 2 ends of the probe together, you should have a reading of 1.0. Using your meter put your probes in each side of the connector. If your meter reads '0' he Bi-Metal is good. When replacing the Bi-metal make sure it is in the original position. Make sure it is secure and not loose. You may have to bend the bottom clip to make sure it is tight.
Note: Everyone should have a multi-meter in there home. It has may uses and can save you a very expensive service call. So, next Christmas, Birthday Ect., buy your better have a multi-meter. They are not that expensive. That way you can borrow it.








Jan 03, 2014 | Galaxy Freezers

1 Answer

Deep freezer model fh25dsd


afc207f3-b81c-4489-ac96-51afaf416dd3.jpg
dd947340-e8d6-4232-8eb0-afa5728bb27e.jpg
You need to unplug the freezer because the compressor is getting hot and the reason the compressor is trying to start but cannot. This clicking is possibly a defective=> WR7X225 Start Relay or a defectve WR62X10058 Run Capacitor If you have an OHM meter you can test the compressor windings. as in the instructions here=> Unplug the freezer and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Have you already solve this problem?

Jul 15, 2013 | GE Freezers

1 Answer

Doesn't start only hums


You should unplug the freezer until someone can check the start relay and run capacitor. Kenmore has a model number like this example=> 321.2468102 can you get me that model number so I can look up the parts I am describing? Someone with an OHM meter need to do this test on the compressor prior to replacing these parts. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Apr 21, 2013 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

1 Answer

The regrigerator was plugged into a switch that was controlled by a light switch. The switch was turned off and then immediately turned on. When that happend there was a pop in the refrigerator. In the...


Sounds like the compressor relay or the compressor itself shorted out. This is not because someone switched the power off and quickly back on. This would have happened anyway. Now to prove or disprove this possibility I want someone to do a electrical test on the compressor run, start and common prongs comming out the side of the compressor. Here is the test as follows...Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
11_22_2012_7_19_47_am.jpg

Nov 21, 2012 | Haier ESRN046 4.6 Cu. Ft. Capacity Energy...

1 Answer

Over temperature warning light has come on


When the overtemperature light comes on it is an indication of possible failure.
But before panicing check these items first.
1.Condenser clean
2. Condenser fan operating (if so equipped)
3. Clearence around unit to allow proper air flow
4. Is compressor running ? (if not check relay, overload)

The compressor relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator.
Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).

relaytest1b.jpg With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".

relaytest3b.jpg The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity.
With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".

relaytest2b.jpg The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms.
If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced

Aug 07, 2011 | Swan SR5170 Freezer

1 Answer

The outside front of the freezer case gets hot.


It's normal to touch it hot on the outside front.
Because it has heater to keep moisture out in the body metal of the freezer.
Those moisture if not heated to dry, can cause rust build up.
Rust build up can destroy the metal body of the freezer.
Thanks for asking.

Jun 29, 2011 | Woods Chest Freezer C1501W3

1 Answer

Why would the top and sides of small chest freezer be warm tot he touch


Some freezers have the refrigeration condenser coils located in the walls of the freezer as opposed to a dedicated coil and fan. This is why you should never drill into a freezer or cooler cabinet to install hinges or make holes for draught equipment.
In order for the door opening to not freeze around the gasket, freezers have a low wattage electrical heater installed and this is probably the heat your feeling on the door.
Hope this answers your question

Nov 21, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

The temperature is going up. I don't know what the appliance repair man touched


dear sir / madam '
i think he has make new temperature setting so please turn on your temperature satting nobe to minimum point and check freezer,s compressor is working , i hope it will work again if not then possible there is any electrical problem possible or leakage in the copper pipe then try to contact to maintenance personnel for further action.

hope answer the question
thank you
please vote!

Sep 03, 2010 | Sub-Zero Freezers

1 Answer

Plugged in freezer after standing 3 days unplugged compressor ino


That sizzling noise i suspect is either the compressor overload or start capacitor burning out .
You need to look in connection box on side of compressor,the relay should just pull off once cover is off.BEWARE even with the freezer unplugged there is a charged capacitor connected inside this box and will give you a nasty shock should you touch it! with insulated pliers touch all terminals to each other and earth to make sure capacitor is discharged .You should be able to get astart capacitor and overload from local repair shop there not expensive if this doesn't fix it the compressor is possibly locked up and will need replacing

Oct 05, 2009 | Kenmore 20.3 cu. ft. / 575 liter Upright...

Not finding what you are looking for?
True 72 cu. ft. / 2039 liter Commercial Freezer GDM-72F Logo

Related Topics:

67 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top True Freezers Experts

Dennis Boxerman

Level 3 Expert

1035 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

Are you a True Freezer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...