Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
If you have not taken the exterior washer casing off, the first steps will explain how to accomplish this:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Once the casing is removed, you should have full access the the washer interior components. Since you have mentioned you taken the "internal post" off (I'm assuming this is your agitator), I will spare the steps in involved in accomplishing that task.
Next, follow these series of steps:
1. Remove the tub ring. This is the cylindrical donut shaped ring attached to the top of the wash tub. This ring needs to be removed in order to accommodate the removal of the inner spin basket. The tub ring comes off by placing a screwdriver under the series of the tabs that hold it in place and GENTLY prying them up until they release. Be careful not to break off the tabs, or crack the wash tub.
2. Remove the spanner nut that is under the agitator. This holds the inner spin basket to center post.
3. With the spanner nut removed, the spin basket should lift straight up and out. Sometimes the basket will stick to the center-post and may required some "coaxing" to get it free. This can be accomplished by grabbing the rim of the spin basket and prying up on one side, then the other, in an attempt to rock the basket side to side.
Searspartsdirect.com has excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use as a reference. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The tub ring gasket, I mention below, is listed as item 6. Appliancepartspros.com also has these same drawings.
Some things to consider:
If you remove the tub ring, it is recommended that you replace the seal on the ring before reassembly. Once the tub seal is broken, it can leak if the seal is not replaced.
When reinstalling the exterior cabinet, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS What is the reason for removing the spin basket? Anything else I can help you with?
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
If it does not drain, I'd check the water pump first (for an obstruction - I found a sock in my pump and that fixed my problem) ... see this video - the top is getting to the WM drive shaft (transmission), but it shows you how to remove the pump first: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc&feature=related
If it does drain ... Is it just the TOP part of the agitator not working, or the whole thing (agitator is in 2 parts)? If just the TOP, you probably just need new "dogs" (agitator dogs). Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5wIN1J70-Y ... it shows you what to do.
If it is the whole agitator that is stuck, that video will show you how to remove it (remove a single bolt) and you can see if there is an obstruction keep the agitator from moving.
If there's no obstruction or the water pump isn't stuck, you might be looking at a new drive/transmission = expensive. Good luck
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
you probably closed the lid to hard and broke the switch that tells the machine that it is closed. So the machine thinks the lid is open and for saftey reasons will not operate. I had the same problem. You can buy a new switch for about $10 or you can simply cuts the wires for the switch and wire them together. If you do this be warned that the machine will never know if the lid is open or closed. The machine will assume that the lid is always closed. But it will work also.
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
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