Question about Shimano Deore LX Mountain Bike Front Derailleur - Top Swing - FD-M580 - IFD

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Sometimes when shifting from middle ring to small ring the chain gets stuck between the two rings.

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Going down, shift fast and keep that chain moving, If the derailleur isn't throwing far enough, fast enough, get some oil in there and move the adj screw a hair in, so that the chain will move over a hair and not fall off the other side. I was just out on my bike and couldn't believe how nice it stills shifts after 25 years. Original parts. Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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I just cant get used to changing gears,why is there two levers, one on each side of the handle bar.I end up with the chain coming off frequently.


Angie, Have patience. It will come to you. There are two levers, because there are two places where the gears change - in the front (by the pedals) and on the back wheel. You might find it easier to just use one lever. Do this--- have someone help you hold the bike so that the back wheel is off the ground. Turn the pedals on the bike and work one shift lever at a time so that you can see which lever is for the front vs. the rear. If you have three gears in the front (the correct name is chain-rings) then leave the front one so that the chain is on the middle chain ring. If there are two, then select the larger one. Now shift the back one (the gears back there are called cogs). You might have 5,6,7 or even 8 cogs back there. Practice shifting the back cogs to see what is happening. If you find that the chain comes off, even when you leave the front on on the middle chain ring, you need an adjustment. Good luck! Al K

Aug 12, 2011 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

I have a Huffy Savannah model 56770 16 speed. How do I shift into gear 7 through 16 ?


Google "bicycle shifting technique", for example:
http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/
You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible.
Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and decrease its normal efficiency.
To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look straight along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.
The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.
THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.
As you can see, the rear derailleur is probably not long enough to **** up all the slack this gear combination creates. There are other combinations that would yield the equivalent gear ratio without either stressing the drivetrain or dropping the chain.
The basics of shifting are these:
1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.
2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed
Ancient bike wisdom for beginners: If your legs ache, shift down. If your lungs ache, shift up.

Apr 25, 2011 | Huffy Cycling

1 Answer

How do I operate the 8 gears on my bicycle as I have no instruction manual ? Please advise. My bicycle is a "Carolina Free Spirit". Thanks


Google bicycle shifting technique, for example:


http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/


The basics of shifting are these:


1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.

2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed

3) The middle ring works with all rear cogs.


Avoid crossing left front to right rear and vice-cersa. It cause excess side loads on the chain.

Mar 07, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

Colnago C50 with 11 speed choras group set. When changing up to the big chain ring ready to decend whilst still in one of the largest 2 or 3 rear sprockets the chain...


Is the chain falling off to the outside? if it is you can adjust the "High " limit screw on front derailleur. There are two screws on top of derailleur usaully marked with a L or a H.Shift rear to small cog and front on large ring. Slowly turn screw marked H till you see front derailleur move in. When it starts to rub on chain back off 1/8 of a turn. Run the rear up and down a cuople of gears making sure nothing rubs and adjust accordingly . Same with the front. That should do it! Also when changing to the big ring up front you should try to be on a middle to small cog on the rear so you don't get into a "cross chain" situation. When running on the small ring you should be on large to middle on the back. Hope that helps you out.

Sep 13, 2010 | Colnago Freeship Ferrari Cx-20 Bicycle...

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I have shimano rd6500 rear derailleurs. when chain is on small chain-ring and smaller rear sprockets the derailleur cage is rubbing against the chain.How do i tension chain to hold cage away from chain,...


If you learn to shift correctly this won't happen..

Google bicycle shifting technique, for example:

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible. Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and increase its normal efficiency.

To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look staright along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.


If you can shift to the big-big combination without snapping the rear derailleur off, you're lucky. The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.

THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.

As you can see, the rear derailleur is not long enough to **** up all the slack this gear combination creates. There are other combinations that would yield the equivalent gear ratio without either stressing the drivetrain or dropping the chain.

The basics of shifting are these:
1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.
2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed

Feb 24, 2010 | Shimano 105 Triple Braze On Front...

1 Answer

My shimno sora front derailler shifts perfectly to the small and large chain set cogs, but on the middle, the chain rubs along the cage.


Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 30, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Problem with chain and gears


Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 26, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Throwing chain too far on an upshift up and off


The "H" screw is the one that is letting your chain jump of f of the ring. If the screws are not labeled, the way to distinguish the two is to shift the front as high as it can go and hold it there manually. Screw either adjusting screw in. If you are screwing the correct one, it either will not move at all or move only very slightly.
First thing is first: flip your bike over onto the bars and saddle. The best method to adjust these settings is to shift into your small ring and let loose the shifter cable. Now shift your rear derailleur into the lowest gear and manually pedal the bike while adjusting the "L" screw on the front until the derailleur cage allows relatively free rotation of the chain. Now set the barrel adjuster on your down tube fully turned in (clockwise). Pull the cable taut and reattach at the derailleur. Shift into your middle ring (or high ring if you have a double-ring crank) and then shift the rear to the highest gear. Use the barrel adjuster to get the derailleur cage to just clear the chain while cranking. If you have already succesfully set your "H" screw to a point where the chain no longer jumps off, then you are all set here. If not, hold the front shifter in while cranking and set the stop so the chain cannot get off of the big ring, but far enough out so you can purposely over-shift by just a bit. Sometimes if you shift early, that little bit of over-shift is very helpful.

i hope this helped, but if you would like to see pictures of this happening, go to parktool.com/repair and check out their tips on derailleur adjustment.
matthew

Oct 22, 2009 | Campagnolo Record Front Derailleur

1 Answer

What is the adjustment procedure on a shimano deor front derailleur. it will not shift into high gear.


Try this first:
Shift into the small ring and release the cable. Pull it tight (with pliers) and re-tighten the cable. It should shift now. If it doesn't, the solution is a little time consuming, so i apologize in advance.
First, flip your bike onto the bars and saddle. Now shift into the small chainring and your lowest cassette cog (the largest in number of teeth). Release the cable from the front derailleur and set the adjustment knob for the front derailleur to its center point. You should find it on your shifter. Now adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur while turning the crank so that its stop sets it in a position where it just skims the chain but does not touch it. Now pull the cable taut and re-clamp the cable. Shift into the middle ring and shift the rear derailleur to its highest and lowest gears, making sure the chain does not rub the front derailleur. If it does rub (it will be in either the lowest or highest cog on the cassette), adjust the front derailleur by way of the adjustment knob to clear the rub. Then shift into the big ring and you should have no problem. Set the "H" stop if necessary.

Sep 04, 2009 | Shimano Deore LX Mountain Bike Front...

2 Answers

On my bike with shimano ultegra shifters and 105 front deraileur, I can't shift onto the big chainring. The deraileur is not at the stop, but I can't move it any farther. How do I fix that.


Try this first:
Shift into the little ring and release the cable. Pull it tight (with pliers) and re-tighten the cable. It should shift now. If it doesn't, the solution is a little time consuming, so i apologize in advance.
First, flip your bike onto the bars and saddle. Now shift into the small chainring and your lowest cassette cog (the largest in number of teeth). Release the cable from the front derailleur and set the adjustment knob for the front derailleur to its center point. You should find it on your down tube. Now adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur while turning the crank so that its stop sets it in a position where it just skims the chain but does not touch it. Now pull the cable taut and re-clamp the cable. Shift into the middle ring and shift the rear derailleur to its highest and lowest gears, making sure the chain does not rub the front derailleur. If it does rub (it will be in either the lowest or highest cog on the cassette), adjust the front derailleur by way of the adjustment knob to clear the rub. Then shift into the big ring and you should have no problem. Set the "H" stop if necessary.

Jun 23, 2009 | Shimano 105 Triple Braze On Front...

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