Question about Char-Broil Performance 463463006

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The burners are not putting off good heat/flame. the temperature is oonly getting to around 300 degrees. what can be wrong?

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You problem could be or probably is with the regulator...not enough gas pressure...

Propane, LP, or Natural Gas Regulator Problems


heatman101

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

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Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My flame keeps on going out on my turkey fryer it has a heat sensor on it how do i position the sensor so the flame doesnt go out


The heat sensor for your turkey fryer is preset to 375 degrees F. Once the oil reaches that temperature, the sensor turns the flame OFF, so that the oil will not boil over and ignite. Once the oil cools to 325 degrees F, the burner can be relighted . Use extreme caution when relighting the burner. Altering or repositioning the heat sensor would make the fryer unsafe to operate.

I'm sorry. I which I had better news for you. Always, err on the side of caution & safety when dealing with open gas flames.

Jul 06, 2011 | Brinkmann 815-3530-2 Turkey Fryer

1 Answer

Water coming out oven no steam and it will not get to tempeture


If your oven isn't reaching temperature you will not get steam. Turn the oven on and verify that the oven is calling for heat by looking in the temperature window next to the arrow that says "heat" or "on," if the set temperature is 5 degrees higher than the actual temperature there should be a small red dot next to the arrow. Then observe the burner, does the exhaust fan come on, can you see the ignitor glowing, does the burner light, does it stay lit or go out after 4 seconds? You could have a dirty flame sensor, the small rod with a wire attached to it at the top of the burner, remove the flame sensor and clean it with a cloth, wire brush, or emory cloth.

Jan 02, 2011 | Baxter OV300E Stainless Steel Electric...

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 362 75191893 gas range. The oven begins to heat, but doesn't even reach 200 degrees. It seems like it has been reaching lower and lower temperatures over time. Besides this new problem,...


If the burner does not light (with a huge flame above it) I would direct you to some gas line blockage.
But if the burner flame lights good and then goes out early before it's good and hot then I would direct you to a defective oven temperature sensor. The sensor is in the upper wall of the oven cavity, can be bought at your local appliance parts store, and installed by any handyman.

Dec 05, 2010 | Ovens

2 Answers

Temperature will not reach past 180 degrees


you may need a grill clean or you need to adjust the air flow to your burners

Apr 20, 2010 | Weber Genesis Gold B Grill

1 Answer

It will only heat to 350 degrees, but the gage goes up to 700 degrees. In other words, how high can you get the temperature to with all burners on high? Thanks, Ron


LP or NG, all burners on high, top closed, out of the high winds (if any) 500+ degrees in 10 - 15 minutes. If not, double check temperture with a secondatry temperture device. If it an old unit, could be gas lines partially cloged. What size of flames come off of the burnes and what are the colors (AT THE BURNER, IN THE MIDDLE OF FLAME, AND AT THE TIP OF THE FLAME.). The olors will indicate the gas / oxyen mixture and therfore heating efficency and templture.)
Yellow is lowest - flame tip light blue almost imvisible is hotest.

Apr 16, 2010 | Char-Broil Commercial Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

My grill is on, the flame is burning, but the temperature never gets up to 300 degrees with all 4 burners going


Try this, turn on just one burner, once it is lit, turn on a second burner. If the flame on the first burner gets lower when you turn on the second burner, you probably have a bad regulator. Replacing the regulator is cheap and easy and may solve your problem.

Jan 10, 2010 | Kenmore Grilling

1 Answer

Grill not getting hot, fire not around burners, knobs are so hot you can't touch them. not getting over 300 degrees, fire seems to be behind knobs


We assembled our new Genesis E-310 yesterday. Went together nicely, but won't heat above 350 or so. It should get to 500-550 degrees withing 10-15 mins. Any ideas of what could be wrong?

May 11, 2009 | Grilling

1 Answer

My Cozy Heater sized and installed by professional will not heat


I'm assuming your heater is the little Cozy direct vent wall furnace, your room calculations are correct, and at 57 degrees your main burner is constantly on. If so, it sounds as if you have too low a flame which can be caused by a main burner jet with an undersized orifice (like a propane one that got in the wrong assembly line) or obstructed by dirt, inadequate gas pressure, or a main gas valve that is not fully opening.

Open the pilot light inspection door and look at the main burner flame height. If it is less than 2 inches or so, check out the three possibilities above. If the flame is very yellow and wandering around lazily, check the air intake on your vent cap for obstruction.

Jan 31, 2009 | Cozy (W352E) Heater

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