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Modle No. pa10ja042oooacaa I need a wiring schematic for this unit . this is a split system the thermostat wires and the sequence and the relay need rewiring.

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This is a 10 seer straight cool unit only 2 wires going to the unit install a new contactor and the thermostat wires go to the contactor unless u are talking about the air handler this is not the model # for the inside unit

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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Have replaced transformer, worked for a couple of days and goes back to relay kicking off


If you have had to replace the transformer, then you probably have a relay that is pulling to much power and/or the thermostat wire may have to be replaced. Most transformer on controls are 40 watt transformers and at 26 volt it should pull less than 1.6 amps. P=IxE Take a clamp on amp meter to the red wire coming from the transformer on the 24 volt side and measure the current. If greater than 1.6 amps the transformer will start overheating because it is producing more power than it is rated. If this is the condition, then before the control fuse blows if it has one check the amp draw on the various relay coils to see if they are the cause of the excess current draw. Each control coil typically draws 6 watts and for 26 volt control power means the amp draw should be about .2 amps. If you find one more than .2 amp you have found your problem. Coil to check is your main contactor for the condensing unit, reversing valve coil if you have a heat pump, sequencers for emergency heat strips, and fan relay in the air handler for a few. Your schematic should list all possible relay coils. Keep checking until you find the coil.
You could also have a control wire that has its insulation worn down to the conductor, so you may have to check the control circuit for open grounds.
If after finding the coil or open ground, the next thing you need to check is the thermostat wire. Old thermostat wire sometimes have the insulation become brittle and cracked or chewn on by pets or rodents. If you have an coil that is drawing excess amps, the entire thermostat wire can turn into a long heater and can cause the thermostat wire to degrade until the wire short out. I have seen several thermostat wires that have been overheated due to bad coils and the excess heat have causes the thermostat wire outer cover to shrink just like shrink tite and is a dead giveaway that thermostat wire needs replaced.
I know that this is a lot to check, but I have had to troubleshoot the control wiring on a lot of units and now you have the condensed knowledge of my experience on this matter.
Hope this helps

Feb 11, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

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Thermostat wiring terminals and colors


R - The R terminal is the power for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer usually located in the blower section for split systems but you may find the transformer in the condensing unit. For this reason, it is a good idea to kill the power at the condensing unit and the blower section before changing or working on the wiring at the thermostat. If you have a package unit then the transformer is in the package unit.
Red for the R terminal.

RC - The RC terminal is designated for the power for cooling. Some HVAC systems use two transformers. A transformer for cooling and a transformer for heating. In this case the power from the transformer in the blower section would go to the thermostat terminal. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.
Red for RC terminal.

RH - The RH terminal is designated for the power for heating. See RC above for an explanation. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.

Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay. Typically a thermostat wire pull is made to the air handler on split systems and then this wire is spliced for the separate wire pull which is made to the condenser. Some manufacturers put a terminal board strip near the control board in the air handler so a splice is not needed.
Yellow for Y Terminal.

Y2 - This is the thermostat terminal for cooling second stage if your system is so equipped. Many systems only have a single compressor but if you have two compressors which should only operate off of one thermostat then you need the Y2 thermostat terminal for second stage cooling.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is light blue but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use. Most installers use the color coding as noted but be aware that some do not use the thermostat color coding.

W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source whether it be a gas or oil furnace, electric furnace, or boiler,
White for W Terminal.

W2 - This is the thermostat terminal used for second stage heat. There are gas furnaces with low fire and high fire and some depend on control from a two-stage heating thermostat with a W2 terminal. Heat Pumps use staging for auxiliary heat and need a W2 terminal.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is brown but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use.

G - This is the thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan. On a split system the blower fan is in the blower section while with a package unit the blower fan is in the outdoor package unit.

Green for G Terminal.

C - This is the thermostat terminal which originates from the transformer and is necessary to complete the 24 volts power circuit in the thermostat but only if the thermostat consumes electricity for power. Many digital thermostats require 24 volts for power so the common wire is necessary.
C stands for common and there is no universal color used for this terminal although black is the most common color I've seen.

O or B - These thermostat terminals are for heat pumps and the B thermostat terminal is used on for Rheem or Ruud and any manufacturer that energizes the reversing valve in heating mode for the heat pump. Most other manufacturers of heat pumps will utilize the reversing valve for cooling and the O thermostat terminal will be utilized for this purpose. This wire goes to outside heat pump condenser where the reversing valve is located.

Orange for O and Dark Blue for B depending on the installer of the heat pump and the manufacturer. If you have a Trane, Carrier, Goodman, Lennox, Ducane, Heil, Fedders, Amana, Janitrol, or any other manufacturer other than Rheem or Ruud you will be utilizing the orange wire for reversing valve. Rheem and Ruud will usually utilize the blue wire for reversing valve.

E - This thermostat terminal is for heat pumps and stands for Emergency Heating. If for whatever reason the heat pump condenser fails and it is necessary to run the heat there is an option on heat pump thermostats for emergency heating. Basically this simply utilizes the back-up heat source many heat pumps have to heat the home without sending a signal to the condenser to run for heat.

E - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the E terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

X or Aux - This thermostat terminal is for back-up on a heat pump and allows for auxiliary heating from the back-up heat source usually located in the air handler.

X or Aux - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the Aux terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

S1 & S2 or Outdoor 1 and Outdoor 2 - Some thermostats have this terminal and it used for an outdoor temperature sensor. The wire uses for this should be special shielded wire and completely separate form the other thermostat wires.







on Jun 06, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Replace contacts in ac rheem 060jaz split system were is reset switch


Get wiring schematic check wiring and the restet is turning breaker on and off to unit. Furnace included. Start checking for 24v . To contractor and through pressure switches. 208-230 volts in unit. Beaware

Sep 06, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram for a starndard residential split a/c system. Just the outdoor section is fine.


Hi, if this is just a split standard heating and cooling unit, and not a split heat pump, all you need to do is pull stat wire from the indoor unit control board to control the condenser with 5 conductors, but you will only use 2 wires for the control of the condenser. Normally, the red and white tie to the 2 control wires of the contactor. Back at the control board, red to red and white to the Y or yellow terminal. You will also need to set your disconnect box for your high voltage near the condenser, where you will be coming from your breaker to supply high voltage to run the motors and compressor. Very easy to do. If it is a heat-pump, you will need to pull at least 8 conductor thermostat wire to wire this up. I would also need to know what terminals and kind of thermostat you have, and if you are using heat strips for second stage of heat. When you say standard unit, you will only need 2 control wires from the indoor to the outdoor unit, along with the high voltage. Please keep me posted and let me know if you need more help on this. A wiring schematic wouldn't be needed if its just a standard condenser.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

Nov 18, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Replacing a Coleman with a Duotherm, can the same thermostat and controls be used?


Hi, yes you can use the same thermostat if you are replacing the unit that has the same sequence of operation. What I mean is, if the old unit is a gas fired furnace and outdoor condenser split system for the a/c you can use the same controls, or if its a package unit. Now, if you are installing a heat-pump unit in place of a gas fired central unit, you will need to pull more stat wire and buy a heat-pump thermostat to make it run.
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating Contractor

Oct 12, 2010 | Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Split System Goodman GMP075-3 Rev A. Main Blower Fan will not turn on. Exterior Unit is running. Need schematic to debug.


IF THE UNIT HAS A CONTROL BOARD ,POSSIBLE BAD FAN RELAY.TEST THE FAN CAPACITOR ALSO .IF NOT QUALIFIED CALL AN EXPERT THAT IS QUALIFIED.CHECK THE WIRING AT THE THEROMOSTAT FOR BAD CONNECTIONS

Aug 08, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Wiring schematic


http://friedrich.com/downloads/Ductless_Service_Manual_MW18Y3F_MR18Y3F.pdf
go to this web site. The manual has a diagram that you are looking for.

Hope this helps

Apr 18, 2010 | Friedrich MR18Y3F Split System Air...

1 Answer

Relay not engaging


This solution is based on a non-heat pump split system (furnace inside and condensing unit outside). The relay takes 24vac to energize and pull in closing the high voltage circuit to the compressor and condenser fan. If 24vac is present at the coil (two side terminals with smaller wire) and the relay does not pull in you need a new one. If no 24v is present then the outside unit is not getting the signal from the furnace and thermostat. If you pop off the furnace covers and access the control board your wires that go outside land on terminals C and Y. Y should have two wires, one from the thermostat and and the second goes to the outside unit. Test for 24v between C and Y. You must bypass the safety switch on the door prior to testing because that switch will cut off the power to the furnace. If nothing then you have a thermostat problem. If voltage is present you have a wiring issue between the furnace and outside unit.

Jul 11, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Wiring a thermostat.


The green one is for the evaporator fan motor relay. The white one is for the heat sequencer. The one coming out of the transformer is usually red BUT it will be the power so attach it to the terminal labeled R on the thermostat. If there is a RH and a RC, put a jumper in between them. See if the purple and brown ones go to the fan motor, if so, then just cap them off with wire nuts, and that should have your heat working. Check to make sure the green and white wires go to their designated areas (the heat sequencer looks like a stacked set of thermal overload switches and the relay looks like, well, a relay) and neither ground out before flipping on power or you will pop your transformer.

Jan 02, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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