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The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.
if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Your circuit braker tripped because of a current problem that in your case caused a defective part.
Since your machine is still under warranty, best way will be to contact to the appropriate factory service center for repair the problem.
you are pulling to many amps see if breaker is faulty first.....see if washer is in the spin and jumping around when this happens run washer with out wash in it and see if it does it something is pulling to many amps to blow breaker or could be just a bad breaker,,,, pulg something else in the wall plug that the machine is plugged in to (like a toster) and see if it trips then if so probably the breaker
Do you mean the houses circuit breaker? If so, WHEN in the cycle does it blow the circuit breaker? WHEN it trips will tell you what to look at. I.E. If the circuit breaker trips during the fill cycle then it would be the walter inlet valve or the timer in the control panel; if it trips as soon as it is in the agitator cycle - then the motor or transmission; if it trips in the spin cycle - then the drain pump or transmission or control panel.
Unplug the unit from the power and leave for about 2 hours Then try the door. Cycle interruption can cause the door to remain locked. Check what other items are on the same circuit. Jugs kettles tv frypans etc. Have an electrician divide the circuit to reduce the amperage load on that particular circuit to save repeats of this event.
well you right in saying "its triping the braker off" thats what it is doing,,
there is a problem with the washer motor,,its pulling far to many amps so its a fulty motor,,,and it will just keep triping the trip out,,,
its a good job you have trips,,the motor could have gone up in smoke
Does this happen every time or once in a while? If it happens everytime, I would guess there is a shorted spot in the timer. If you can put it into the spin cycle manually, then the motor is not shorted. It will be hard to diagnose it from long distance, but if it is tripping the house breaker it has a dead short somewhere. If it only happens sometimes, check to see what else is on the circuit that might be running at the same time. It pulls the most amps when it goes into spin, spiking around 16-20 amps. If you have other things running on a 20 or 30 amp breaker it could just be the curcuit is overloaded at that point or the breaker is weak. If we can narrow it down to the timer, it is a pretty simple repair, but some of the timers are pretty expensive. Post back with the exact model number if you need more help.